Borrowing from the Boys: Vogue Editors Pick Their Favorite Looks from the Men’s Collections Inline
Photo: Yannis Vlamos / Indigitalimages.com1/19Raf Simons
"From season to season, Raf Simons has riffed on the codes and rituals of youth culture, so it seemed appropriate that he set his latest show to the atmospheric sound track of Fiorucci Made Me Hardcore, a video by the artist Mark Leckey on the recent history of British dance music. With the cropped sweaters and massive, acid house–ready pants he showed in Paris—seemingly longer and looser than any of the other relaxed trousers on the men’s runways for spring—Simons brought a Futurist’s eye to nostalgia. But his best looks this time went even further: they included a series of forward-gazing coats, with raw edges, partially zippered plackets, unusually shaped fabric overlays, and grommets arranged in recurring patterns, that were almost punk in their negation of the past.” –Diego Hadis
Photo: Marcus Tondo / Indigitalimages.com2/19Louis Vuitton
"Silk souvenir jackets, like the ones brought home by American GIs after stints in Japan and Korea, figured as a major influence on Kim Jones’s latest collection for Louis Vuitton. But they were only one way in which the designer played off the casualwear of the mid–20th century. More understated, but perhaps also more compelling, were his boxy, short-sleeved button-downs with taped seams and technical fabrics, in what amounted to beautiful reinterpretations of bowling shirts. These shirts, which Jones showed with sporty sandals and tucked into narrow trousers, were incontestably a strike.” –Diego Hadis
Photo: Courtesy of Undercover3/19Undercover
"Jun Takahashi has deployed a number of recurring slogans through the years, but the one that could serve as the epigram for Undercover is ‘We make noise not clothes.’ As the phrase suggests, the designer’s aim is less to create beautiful garments than to subvert convention. For his 25th-anniversary collection, Takahashi reworked highlights from past seasons in an overview suggesting that his greatest pieces are the ones that play with expectations—like a seemingly traditional bomber jacket with panels that appeared lifted from old Undercover sweatshirts, or the collection’s best look: a varsity jacket worn over a button-down that, on closer inspection, all turned out to be a trompe l’oeil image printed on a longer coat. Simple, but kind of brilliant.” –Diego Hadis
Photo: Courtesy of Loewe4/19Loewe
"I was having a major bag crisis . . . until I saw this. Oh, and I’ll take the cross-body, pouch and look too. Who cares if it was designed for a man?" –Jorden Bickham
Photo: (from left) Yannis Vlamos / Indigitalimages.com; Courtesy of Marc Jacobs; Yannis Vlamos / Indigitalimages.com5/19Margaret Howell, Marc Jacobs, and Alexander McQueen
"Assuming the women s resort looks in the men s shows don t count, I have ransacked the men s collections and found these three which I d be able to share with these guys, from Margaret Howell, Marc Jacobs, and Alexander McQueen.” –Sarah Mower
