Spring 2016 Trend Report

Spring’s most sensual proposition? Bar none, the bevy of lusciously languid styles that are taking lingerie out of the boudoir and onto the street. The ultra-luxurious slip dresses proposed by designers from Céline’s Phoebe Philo to Alexander Wang made one thing clear: All that supple satin and frothy lace were too good for sleeping in, anyway. From Gucci’s estate sale fantasia to Marc Jacobs’s exuberant ode to Old Hollywood revues, the idea that emerged as most central to fashion’s new mood this season was emotion. In a world that’s more tumultuous than ever, now is the time to embrace an expansive attitude, to take things both familiar and new, hold them close—and of course, wear them. An unfussy brand of femininity dominated the Spring runways, where ladylike dresses from the likes of Erdem and Philosophy di Lorenzo Serafini were paired with simple flats and a relaxed attitude. Sequins and other shiny materials have never looked so good—and with takes ranging from Marni’s arty flora to Vetements’s grungy gown, there’s a dress to suit every girl. Bar none, the body part to bare for spring? Your shoulders—a chic new way to show a little skin while leaving plenty up to the imagination. If there were any lingering doubts as to the workwear staple’s role on the runways, Spring’s jeans should set them straight. Denim got a major upgrade courtesy of everyone from Alexander McQueen’s Sarah Burton, who showed densely embellished coats in the stuff, to Monsieur Lagerfeld himself, who did a printed gown at Chanel in the fabric that would put your old 501s to shame. Right in step with the season’s many womanly wiles were the flamenco-tinged tiers and ruffles, countless yards of which adorned gowns from Michael Kors Collection, Oscar de la Renta’s Peter Copping, and J.W.Anderson. This isn’t the head shop standby. Tie-dye’s new side is simple, sophisticated, and all grown up. Cases in point: Joseph Altuzarra’s seductive, slit-to-there shirtdresses and Narciso Rodriguez’s large-scale take on a languid sheath. Less look-at-me than gold, this metallic is having a major moment. Seen in reflective leathers, lamé, crinkled silks, or even the “broken glass” spotted at Loewe and Maison Margiela, it makes a high-impact piece out of even the simplest styles. Are you tough enough? Streetwear’s ongoing influence made its presence known on runways from Balenciaga (luxe boilersuits with utilitarian flair to spare) to Rag & Bone (borrowed-from-the-boys M1-style bombers aren’t going anywhere anytime soon). The best place to pump up the volume? In your sleeves. Spring saw a bevy of voluminous styles, from the Victorian leg-of-muttons at Jonathan Anderson’s eponymous label to Simone Rocha’s diaphanous, cap-sleeved frocks. Sometimes bigger is better. Horizontal or vertical, thick or thin, many-hued or monochromatic, stripes emerged from the fray of Spring prints as a clear victor on catwalks from Dior to Dolce & Gabbana. You’ll be hard-pressed to top them in terms of sheer graphic appeal, too.

Spring 2016 Trend Report

Céline

Calvin Klein Collection

Givenchy

Burberry Prorsum