The CFDA Genesis House Toast Bach Mai, Dauphinette, and Kozaburo at a Golden Hour Cocktail Party

It was a fitting setting—Genesis House bathing in sunset rays—for Bach Mai to say that he’s feeling optimistic. Four days out from his show, the Texas-born, New York-based designer said this latest collection is about finding the light and recognizing that “what will be, will be.”

Mai was the talk of the room, as along with Olivia Cheng of Dauphinette and Kozaburo Akasaka, he has been named as a recipient of the second annual CFDA and Genesis House AAPI Design + Innovation Grant. The life-changing program will see the talented trio take part in a mentorship program, allowing them to tap into the guidance and wisdom of industry leaders as they create collections that highlight their Asian heritage while nodding to contemporary design and innovation. Among the mentors are Eva Chen, Alina Cho, Fernando Garcia and Laura Kim, Tina Leung, Jodie Chan, Stephanie Horton, Rachel Espersen, and Steven Kolb.

“Being a young designer is not easy, which is why something like this is so incredible,” Mai told Vogue. “I’m so happy to be part of this, to have the mentorship and the support. There are so many things that can bog down a young designer—from sales and commerce to PR and marketing—but this helps us remember why we do it. Because we love making clothes!”

Readying for his runway show on Sunday, Mai said the program has marked a turning point towards a more positive end to 2024. “The last year has been really tough, as my dad passed away. The show is about coming through the darkness and finding the light—and another part of that has been [to do with what’s happening] politically,” Mai said, referring to Kamala Harris, who stands to potentially become the first Asian American and Black female president this November. “When things changed ahead of the election, it was like a ray of light had started shining again, and not all was lost. And in the collection, everything started coming together too.”

Another reason that Mai and his fellow designers had a big smile on their faces? An upcoming trip to Korea—a first for both Mai and Cheng. As well as a $40,000 grant to help bolster their respective businesses, the designers will head on a jam-packed expedition to Seoul next month Cheng, whose whimsical label Dauphinette was recently sported by Blake Lively during her hair care launch (you may also have come across their headline-making ‘Bag-uette’ handbags, made in Japan from hollowed-out and preserved bread rolls) said she is buzzing to see what the food and fashion is like in the cultural epicenter.

The trip will also serve to inspire the designers’ collections for the challenge, and a winner will subsequently be unveiled next February with a public showcase at Genesis House on 10th Avenue—and secure said designer another $60,000 prize for their label.  

Steven Kolb, CEO of the CFDA, said the organization was thrilled to see the significant impact of the program last year. In fact, he had just come from a studio visit to last year’s winner, Grace Ling, who will present her collection on the first official day of NYFW shows this Friday. “Because of the grant, Grace was able to move into a brand new studio and use that money to hire a production manager to help her, which has changed her life and her business. That is real impact,” Kolb said proudly.