Cillian Murphy Referenced Vintage Versace for His Winning Oscars Look
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How does a best actor winner like Cillian Murphy approach dressing for the Oscars? Turns out, the Oppenheimer star, who is famously press shy, treats the event like any other awards ceremony—with a tasteful (and super stealthy) eye towards tailoring, which is always meant to seamlessly blend in, not stand out. "The red carpet can be particularly noisy,” says stylist Rose Forde, who helped Murphy cultivate a smart wardrobe throughout the film’s press tour and awards that followed it. “There s a tendency to try more and say more. It’s easy to over-style. But there’s a natural cool with Cillian—an ease and a nonchalance about him. He exudes style over being a ‘fashion guy.’”
Last evening, Murphy’s Oscars look was designed custom by Versace. Murphy and Forde looked to the Italian label’s archives for inspiration, and landed on creating a black tweed suit with lapels. “We looked at a lot of ’90s Versace references,” says Forde. “If you look back at all of their silhouettes and campaigns from that time, it’s exquisite; They’ve dressed people like Sting and Prince.” The duo were struck by the sharp, yet edgy, pieces they found in the process, and channeled that energy into Murphy’s Oscars look. “It’s a twist on a classic black tuxedo with drop shoulders,” says Forde. “For the Oscars, we wanted something proper and appropriate for the ceremony. It also has a bit of an Old Hollywood vibe.”
They accessorized with patent boots, a silky shirt, a sleek Omega timepiece, and a custom brooch by Sauvereign. The 18-karat yellow gold brooch actually draws inspiration from Oppenheimer, and features eight concentric trapeziums—the shape found within the interior components of an atomic bomb. “It was a bespoke commission for him,” says Forde of the intricate piece. “It s really beautiful. Cillian was involved in the design; He’s not into bling, so we wanted something very understated and elegant.”
This quiet, minimal approach to suiting is one that Murphy and Forde have nailed throughout the season. The duo first began working together shortly before Oppenheimer press kicked off. “Cillian didn’t really have a stylist [before we worked together,]” says Forde. “We get on really well; There was a mutual appreciation for the same kind of references outside of the world of fashion. I come from an editorial background, so clothes for me is really about storytelling. He was keen to work with someone where it could be a creative collaboration.”
Since then, they’ve landed on looks that are sophisticated and dressy, with a decidedly cool feel to them. It takes skill, after all, to make a handful of black suits read intriguing and not bland. Forde says Murphy came armed with a strong understand of suiting in particular. “Cillian’s done numerous roles where he s got to really understand tailoring and the power of tailoring—from Peaky Blinders to Oppenheimer,” says Forde. His love for music and rock also helped bring a unique slant to the looks. “Music is also really important to Cillian—he was a musician originally—so numerous musical icons have informed out storytelling along the way," she says. “We looked at a lot of ’80s and ’90s David Bowie, and bands like the Clash and the Talking Heads, who put their own spin on tailoring and made it feel very punk.”
Some of their best moments together? They’ve been at events such as the Golden Gloves, where Murphy wore a rich velvet Saint Laurent suit. “I loved having him not wear the bow tie, having the shirt look a little bit undone, and having the cut of the velvet feel a bit more Victoria,” says Forde. “A velvet suit for an awards ceremony is always a risky area—it can look conservative or preppy—but we were able to bring a more dandy-esque approach to it.” Another highlight was his all-black Zegna look at the BAFTAs, complete with an elongated coat and cummerbund-style trouser. “I loved the minimalism of it,” says Forde. She adds that comfortability is always key, no matter the occasion. “I don’t want Cillian to go out and feel like he can’t move,” she says. “It needs to feel natural—he needs to live in it.”
Accessories-wise, the pair have played with elevated shoe styles from John Lobb and Saint Laurent—often forgoing a traditional Oxford in favor of a modern boot. “Saint Laurent actually brought back an archive boot for him, and we developed it,” says Forde. Great timepieces have also been a focus. “He’s a massive Omega fan, it’s what he wears personally,” says Forde. “We’ve thought really carefully about the color; We often tried to go against the color of the look [with the face of the watch].”
It’s these thoughtful approaches to dressing that’s cemented Murphy as one of this year’s best dressed men in Hollywood. Forde s main takeaway? “I don t think you need to reinvent the wheel every single time to project style; If you have a silhouette that works, we repeat it.” Well said.
Below, more of the actor s best awards season looks.
Photo: Getty Images1/4In Saint Laurent at the 2024 Golden Globes
Photo: Getty Images2/4In Saint Laurent at an Oscars luncheon
