The Definitive Guide to Fashion’s New Guard
By the end of the season, Vogue Runway will have reviewed over 450 labels and written up even more as part of our news and trend coverage. Among the mainstays and cult favorites are a crop of young designers changing the industry from the outside in. Holding their presentations in Chinese clubs and Parisian malls instead of the hallowed halls of Fashion Week proper, these are the on-the-rise brands set to be tomorrow’s leaders. Meet all 14 of them here.
Photo: Courtesy of Alyx1/14Alyx
Designer: Matthew Williams
Location: New York City
Founded: 2015
Need to know: Williams, who cut his teeth as a creative director for some names you just might know (ahem, Kanye and Gaga), is now turning out badass luxury basics with Alyx—named for his adorable young daughter. Come for the perfectly cut flares, stay for the skate-inspired graphic tees.
Where to follow: @alyxstudio
Photo: Courtesy of Moses Gauntlett Cheng2/14Moses Gauntlett Cheng
Designers: Esther Gauntlett and Jenny Cheng
Location: New York City
Founded: 2015
Need to know: Downtown mainstay David Moses (arguably better known by his Instagram alias, @angelmasturbatingsoftly) may be pals with Lily-Rose Depp, but the label he cofounded as an Eckhaus Latta intern and has since departed is earning plenty of attention on its own. Post-gender and unapologetically crafty-looking, MGC was a hit at the VFiles Spring ’16 runway show, and its sophomore collection sold out at Opening Ceremony.
Where to follow: @mosesgauntlettcheng
Photo: Courtesy of Eric Schlösberg3/14Eric Schlösberg
Designer: Eric Schlösberg
Location: New York City
Founded: 2016
Need to know: Formerly one half of well-loved Ammerman Schlösberg, Eric Schlösberg has struck out on his own with an eponymous line that’s every bit as eccentric as his onetime label. Fall ’16 took its cues from the idea of an uptown girl gone full-on St. Marks Place.
Where to follow: @ericschlosberg
Photo: Courtesy of LRS4/14LRS Studio
Designer: Raul Solis
Location: New York City
Founded: 2014
Need to know: Solis may be an alum of Proenza Schouler’s design team, but his clothes strike a chord all their own. Fall 2016 was a bedtime-inspired affair, chock-full of pajama-inflected separates and some seriously killer plush blanket coats decked out in deliciously chintzy prints of unicorns and roses.
Where to follow: @_l_r_s_
Photo: Courtesy of Vejas5/14Vejas
Designer: Vejas Kruszewski
Location: Toronto
Founded: 2014
Need to know: At just 19 years old, Kruszewski is the youngest finalist for the LVMH Prize since its inception. Whether he takes home the gold or not, you can expect to see a lot more of his brutally beautiful creations in the months to come.
Where to follow: @vejask
