The (Haute Architecture) French Road Trip Inline
Photo: Getty Images1/6Basilica of St. Denis
First stop—the first real Gothic cathedral. Fly into Charles de Gaulle but head straight to this northern suburb of the city before you take in the sights (and pain au chocolat) along the Seine. With its pointed arches, ribbed vaults, and stained glass, the traditional burial place of French kings successfully broke away from the Romanesque-style architecture when it was completed in 1144. Nearby, les femmes can visit Hammam Pacha for a Turkish spa experience. If you happen to be here on Sunday—which, given the topic, you ought to be for at least one stop—visit the beloved weekly market as well.
Photo: Courtesy of @ i_terrafy2/6Notre-Dame de Paris
Drive into the city and straight onto Île de la Cité, the centrally located island that houses the famous church often referred to as just Notre-Dame. The literary inclined should have reread Victor Hugo’s story of Quasimodo on the red-eye over, but there’s plenty of pre-19th-century history to be found as well. Technically still Early Gothic, but with flying buttresses—the best-named architecture feature known to human kind—to lend next level support. Paris itself obviously has more than enough to offer for a post–bell tower stair climb, but try sticking on and right around the island for a change. Berthillion for ice cream is a must, while dinner on the mainland calls for either Chicago-born chef Daniel Rose’s prix fixe restaurant Spring or the inspired Ze Kitchen Galerie.
Photo: Courtesy of Mohammad Bencheikh / @mocheikh3/6Chartres Cathedral
A fairly common day trip for Paris tourists, Chartres is certainly a site that should be on everyone’s must-see life lists. High Gothic architecture reaches its fruition, and perhaps it most perfect state, in this structure. With three levels, one (not two) aisles, and rectangular bays, the church’s proportions successfully carry the eye up and forward. (Note that one of the spires was built later.) Nearby, Centre International Du Vitrail is a museum for stained glass lovers still looking to get their fill, while Les Feuillantines can provide a fix of the more nourishing variety. Even if not, its très mignon rouge–colored door and exterior is almost worth just ambling on by.
Photo: Courtesy of Nadya Koshkina / @nadya_koshkina4/6Amiens Cathedral
Now, head north—the higher we go! A two-and-a-half-hour drive doubling back past Paris will lead you to the town of Amiens. Notre-Dame d’Amiens was completed in 1236 by noted architects of the day including Thomas and Renaud De Cormont. Amiens is the tallest and most complete French Gothic cathedral and belongs to the High or Late period. However don’t let its reportedly “perfect” inner space distract you too much from its outer walls, which have an abundance of well-preserved sculptures as well. What else to do while in the northern region of Picardy? Consider venturing to the Château de Chantilly, a famously gorgeous home and groomed grounds escape, which will have you wanting to stay.
Photo: Courtesy of @ucanalwaysgetwhatuwant5/6Reims Cathedral
If Amiens has the ideal interior, than the relatively slightly taller Reims is the ne plus ultra of Late Gothic exteriors. More ornate, and with two rose windows, it’s no wonder why this church would make a striking setting for the coronation of kings. The cathedral also now has a set of stained glass by artist Marc Chagall. Reims, which was an important town during the Roman Empire, is also a center for champagne. Visit Veuve Clicquot and other nearby producers for products bottled at the source.
