A First Look at the Met’s “Manus x Machina” Catalog Inline
Photos: Yves Saint Laurent (French, 1936-2008). Evening dress, Autumn/Winter 1969-70 Haute Couture. French. Silk, bird-of-paradise feathers. The Metropolitan Museum of Art, New York, gift of Baron Philippe de Rothschild, 1983 (1983.619.1a, b); Iris van Herpen (Dutch, born 1984). Dress, Autumn/Winter 2013-14 Haute Couture. Dutch. Silicone, cotton. The Metropolitan Museum of Art, New York, Purchase, Friends of The Costume Institute Gifts, 2015 (2016.14). Courtesy of the Metropolitan Museum of Art / © Nicholas Alan Cope1/6From left: Haute couture creations by Yves Saint Laurent, 1969; Iris van Herpen, 2013
Yves Saint Laurent: Machine-sewn, hand-finished nude silk gauze, hand-glued with white, black, and brown bird-of-paradise feathers.
Iris van Herpen: Hand-stitched strips of laser-cut nude silicone feathers, machine-sewn white cotton twill, hand-applied silicone-coated gull skulls.
Photo: Courtesy of the Metropolitan Museum of Art, Photo © Nicholas Alan Cope2/6Chanel Haute Couture Fall 2014
This wedding dress, writes Andrew Bolton in “Manus x Machina,” “was an inspiration for the exhibition. The design on the train,” he explains, “was sketched by hand and then manipulated on the computer to give the appearance of a randomized, pixelated ‘baroque’ pattern. It was initially hand-painted with gold metallic pigment, then machine-printed (transfer-printed) with rhinestones, and finally hand-embroidered with pearls and gemstones. In total, the train required 450 hours of workmanship.”
Karl Lagerfeld (French, born Hamburg, 1938) for House of Chanel (French, founded 1913). Wedding ensemble (back view), Autumn/Winter 2014-15 Haute Couture. Courtesy of Chanel Patrimoine Collection.
Photo: Courtesy of the Metropolitan Museum of Art, Photo © Nicholas Alan Cope3/6Marc Jacobs for Louis Vuitton Spring 2012
Dress: Machine-sewn blue silk-polyester crinkle organza, hand-embroidered with laser-cut white and blue plastic flowers, grommeted with clear crystal and silver metal studs, hand-finished. Slip: Machine-sewn white polyester organdy with machine-done broderie anglaise flowers.
Dress, Marc Jacobs (American, born 1964) for Louis Vuitton Co. (French, founded 1854), Spring/Summer 2012.
Photo: Courtesy of the Metropolitan Museum of Art, Photo © Nicholas Alan Cope4/6Threeasfour Spring 2016
Machine-sewn white neoprene and nude nylon mesh, hand-appliqué of 3-D printed (SLS) ivory resin and nylon.
Dress, Threeasfour (American, founded 2005), Spring/Summer 2016.
Photo: Courtesy of the Metropolitan Museum of Art, Photo © Nicholas Alan Cope5/6Christian Dior Haute Couture Spring 2015
Hand-pleated, machine-sewn white silk organdy, hand-embroidered with piece-dyed polychrome silk grosgrain ribbon, machine-sewn green wool-silk crepe, hand-finished.
Raf Simons (Belgian, born 1968) for House of Dior (French, founded 1947). Ensemble, Spring/Summer 2015 Haute Couture. Courtesy of Christian Dior Haute Couture.
