Culture

Pope Francis’s Funeral: The Powerful and the Pilgrims Gather, and Their Mourning Clothes Tell a Story

Funeral Takes Place For Pope Francis.
Photo: Getty Images

The piazza’s crowd of clergy and political leaders looked like a brilliant patchwork striped black, red, and white: The crimson robes of the Cardinals and their 12-inch white ceremonial mitres, the solemn black funeral clothes of delegations, and the white vestments of participating priests and church people. Further afield, there were purple, white, and black vestments depending on the clergy.

As the pope’s often-used tailor Filippo Sorcinelli recently told Vogue, the clothing of the late Pope Francis articulated his more humble sensibilities through his simple vestment choices. Sorcinelli, who creates liturgical garments with his design studio, Atelier Lavs, creates sacred clothing deeply inspired by medieval art and architecture. For Francis, he referenced Italian Renaissance painter Giotto’s medieval fresco cycles—especially those in Assisi, in a nod to the saint name the Pope took. To lie in state, Francis was dressed in an Atelier Lavs-designed white and gold mitre and simple robes. His wooden coffin was even more spare, sitting solemnly in the open piazza.

There are specific dressing requirements asked by the Vatican for such events. Men are expected to wear a dark suit, a long black tie. White shirts under jackets were permitted, but socks, shoes, coats, and umbrellas were also to be black. For women attending, they were asked to wear long black dresses, black mantilla (which is a lace veil), and black gloves if they wished. The only appropriate jewelry was a string of pearls.

Delegations in attendance kept to the respectful sartorial codes for funerals: black suits, funeral veils, pearls. Trump, however, wore a deep navy suit, white shirt, and navy tie (with an American flag pinned to his lapel), as did Joe Biden. Zelensky, Starmer, and Macron opted for black suits. Zelensky did not wear a tie and instead of a suit jacket wore a utility style jacket.