Pope Francis’s Funeral: The Powerful and the Pilgrims Gather, and Their Mourning Clothes Tell a Story

As the pope’s often-used tailor Filippo Sorcinelli recently told Vogue, the clothing of the late Pope Francis articulated his more humble sensibilities through his simple vestment choices. Sorcinelli, who creates liturgical garments with his design studio, Atelier Lavs, creates sacred clothing deeply inspired by medieval art and architecture. For Francis, he referenced Italian Renaissance painter Giotto’s medieval fresco cycles—especially those in Assisi, in a nod to the saint name the Pope took. To lie in state, Francis was dressed in an Atelier Lavs-designed white and gold mitre and simple robes. His wooden coffin was even more spare, sitting solemnly in the open piazza.

There are specific dressing requirements asked by the Vatican for such events. Men are expected to wear a dark suit, a long black tie. White shirts under jackets were permitted, but socks, shoes, coats, and umbrellas were also to be black. For women attending, they were asked to wear long black dresses, black mantilla (which is a lace veil), and black gloves if they wished. The only appropriate jewelry was a string of pearls.

Delegations in attendance kept to the respectful sartorial codes for funerals: black suits, funeral veils, pearls. Trump, however, wore a deep navy suit, white shirt, and navy tie (with an American flag pinned to his lapel), as did Joe Biden. Zelensky, Starmer, and Macron opted for black suits. Zelensky did not wear a tie and instead of a suit jacket wore a utility style jacket.

First Lady Melania Trump wore a black, longline blazer and skirt suit, with a black embroidered mantilla on her head and matching sheer embroidered gloves. She did not wear tights, which is thought to be appropriate in the Vatican. Former First Lady Jill Biden also wore a more solidly black veil, paired with a black Schiaparelli skirt suit with gold buttons. Queen Mathilde of Belgium also wore a sheer, lace-edged black veil, while Queen Letizia of Spain wore a lighter, shorter black headpiece. Princess Charlene of Monaco, Queen Mary of Denmark, Queen Rania of Jordan, Queen Silvia of Sweden, and Crown Princess Mette-Marit of Norway also wore mantilla. Victoria Starmer, wife of the British Prime Minister, instead chose a black fascinator with a small netting. Other women, such as EU Parliament President Roberta Metsola, Italian Prime Minister Giorgia Meloni, and Brigitte Macron, opted not to cover their heads. Meloni wore a black pant-suit, while Macron wore also wore a bow-necked suit.

Among clergymen and liturgical staff, the Pontifical Swiss Guard certainly stand out. They’re the armed forces and protective security unite in place to protect the Pope and Apostolic Palace within the Vatican City State—often thought of as the “world’s smallest army.” Dating back to the 16th century, they can be recognized by their Renaissance-era dress, which features a tunic striped in red, blue, and yellow, with a high plumed helmet.

Following the service, crowds continued to gather on the streets and a bridge across the Tiber River, attempting to see the special motorcade carrying Francis’s coffin. Francis’s body will now be transported to the Basilica of Santa Maria Maggiore, in Rome, for burial. A nine-day mourning period will follow.

Below, see some of the events unfolding across the day, the people who made the pilgrimage to Rome, and the world leaders.