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When Alexis Novak arrives at an estate sale at 4 a.m., ready to dig through piles of old clothing, she is wearing her most sensible, unassuming pieces: a loose-fitting black top, matching relaxed trousers, and Nike Daybreak sneakers. Uniform dressing brings a sense of stability and assuredness to the unknown of sourcing, which, as the founder of Tab Vintage—a mainstay for hard-to-come-by archival fashion from the likes of Yves Saint Laurent, Jean Paul Gaultier, Chanel, and Tom Ford–era Gucci—is a feat Novak faces daily.
Pounding the pavement to rummage for vintage treasure is inherent to unearthing the rare and one-of-a-kind pieces that celebrity stylists, editors, and fashion-loving brides-to-be seek her out for. But it’s also psychically demanding work that’s night and day from the glamorous red-carpet looks and special occasionwear she’s on a mission to find. Heels usually stay at home on sourcing trips, but even when she’s in Los Angeles tracking down missing buttons or beads, in fittings with clients, or consulting with her clothing dyer on how to best revive a faded gown, ease and comfort are a priority. “A lot of my job is manual, so I need to have mobility,” Novak says of her approach to dressing for long hours on the job. “I’m leaning down, picking up giant loads of clothes, and digging through [things] that haven’t been cleaned or treated yet. Half the time, I’m wearing gloves!”
Reflecting on her own personal style philosophy in the broader context of the high-fashion eveningwear she sources, Novak says she’s always had a penchant for the drama of the ’20s and ’70s but feels like her truest self in “flowy, oversized silhouettes that embody an element of camp.” “I wear a lot of draping and more masculine silhouettes, but then with Tab I’m able to source those stunning, va-va-voom pieces,” she says. “I always try to source a wider net of what I own.”
Her own curated wardrobe represents the more tongue-in-cheek side of her taste—and is filled to the brim with unique vintage and contemporary designer finds that reward closer inspection. For example: a vintage Martin Margiela glove pendant that she stores pins and clips in; her duo of sterling-silver Tiffany bottle necklaces; or a dramatically deep V-neck sweater from The Row that’s inspired by a similar 1998 Margiela for Hermès runway piece, all of which she styled for this series. “It’s such a gift to find designers that allow me to authentically express what I want to with the world,” she says, speaking to her cherished collection of Martin Margiela, Phoebe Philo, and vintage Elsa Peretti designs.
The love of the hunt was instilled in Novak from early on; she would trawl flea markets and garage sales with her father in Denver. Nowadays, her pursuits take her all over the world, from cross-state road trips to extended stays in Japan or Paris. As a former yoga teacher turned full-time vintage dealer in 2020, Novak never knows who she’ll meet or what kind of gem will reveal itself to her, but she embraces the spontaneous nature of her job with an artistic, avant-garde, and mindfully edited wardrobe that’s reflective of her cultivated taste and love of camp. Curious to see how she navigates it all? Let’s unpack her week of looks below.
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On Call: Embracing the Element of Surprise
When working closely with her tailor, Rae Moore, on alterations for clients, Novak reaches for pieces in which she can move freely and instinctively. Here, she styles a flared Marni skirt with a square-neck tank from Vince—“a great layering piece”—and her beloved Tabi boots. She imbues interest in this all-black look with a bright red V-neck sweater from The Row—a deep cut based on a Martin Margiela for Hermès style from the fall 1998 collection and a contemporary-fashion Easter egg she was over the moon to find. Her Elsa Peretti for Tiffany tassel pendant adds a layer of tasteful artistry.
The Foundational Formula for Fittings—and Beyond
Easy, relaxed separates make up this next tonal look, composed of a collarless Margiela men’s blazer, the same Vince square-neck cami as seen above, and a Prada maxiskirt. Novak will slip it into whenever she needs to feel truly present. “I love being in the moment when I’m [in fittings] working on a piece and don’t want to ever feel restricted [by my clothes],” she says of this tried-and-true formula. She’ll opt for Tabi ballet flats in the day, then switch into boots or loafer heels for after-hours. A vintage Elsa Peretti horseshoe belt—another prized piece in her collection—breaks up the monochrome and adds intrigue and dimension to her outfit.
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Silky Separates for No-Fuss Polish
You’ll never catch Novak rummaging through bins in silky clothing; she reserves elegant separates like these for days packed to the brim with client meetings. “The silk top is so comfortable and relaxed but still has that cool element to it with the oversized fit and tight cuffs,” she says of her recently acquired Phoebe Philo design. She paired it with slouchy tailored wool trousers, also by Philo, and her trusty Margiela sneakers. She incorporates a sense of playfulness with her jewelry: a dainty stacking chain from Wwake—“a barely-there piece I wear every single day that’s really like a part of me now”—and an old Céline coral deer pendant. “I like pendant necklaces because they’re a [impactful] piece of jewelry that isn’t power pearls.” Novak isn’t print shy but prefers to express herself in color stories over patterns. “I like solid hues that can be easily interchanged and add interest with fabrics,” she says of this ensemble that exemplifies her dressing ethos.
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Campy Accessories Bring Artful Flair
Novak’s whimsical side—and deep fashion knowledge—is on full display here, with an outfit framed around vintage and contemporary Margiela finds: a modern knit vest atop a coordinating zip-up cardigan with “lines that match up perfectly whichever way you wear it” and a pre-loved maxi column skirt made out of old cargo pants that Novak describes as “a tailoring feat that’s one of one.” She’d pair this outfit with sneakers for work or surrealist Phoebe Philo–era Céline heels for a lunch out. (Take a closer look at her shoes, and you’ll notice the toenails are painted red—campy dressing at its finest!) She gives this outfit complexity and an artful flair with a pendant pouch first seen on Margiela’s 1999 spring runway. “Although it’s a piece of art, it’s a functional pouch made of a vintage 1950s leather glove that Margiela sourced and found at a Parisian flea market. I use it to keep my tailoring clips and pins.”
Trompe L’oeil Dressing
Two of Novak’s hard-earned vintage finds shine in this transitional outfit that’s perfect for whenever she wants to leave a lasting impression. She says she stumbled upon the Margiela dress and jacket cosmically on two separate occasions, and pairing them up felt like “reuniting a family.” The jacket is a reconstruction of deconstructed vintage leather jackets with extra-long sleeves that can be rolled up. “There’s no practicality to it,” she says. “It’s just a new idea that I love, and Margiela was always trying to find modern ways to interpret old ideas.” The dress’s trompe l’oeil pattern is a zoomed-in photograph of a woman’s hair printed on a silk lining. Her appreciation for craftsmanship and provenance gives gravitas to this look, which is once more anchored by her vintage Elsa Peretti bottle pendant and Tabi boots.
Decisions, Decisions: The Art of Letting Go
For Novak, the thrill of discovery is often tempered by a rush of mixed emotions: Do you hold on to this incredible piece for yourself, or do you accept being a temporary custodian and allow it to find another happy home? “There’s a fine line between collecting and hoarding,” Novak says of her own curated edit, which consists of about 60 pieces she truly loves and wears. Novak is trying on a spring 2008 drop-waist Marni dress (Look 52) with which she’s chosen to part. Had she kept it, she would have hemmed it to a maxi length and styled it with sneakers—a reliable daytime look for “feeling confident and put together.” She emphasizes the importance of tailoring vintage, which “costs less than you think and ensures you’ll wear it a million times more than if you don’t.” “It’s what makes it yours,” she says. Her Elsa Peretti bottle pendant makes another cameo—a staple that makes her feel “protected and self-assured.”
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The Tried-and-True LBD
Just because it’s vintage doesn’t mean you shouldn’t or can’t wear it often. This 2002 Prada pleated jersey dress with leather details from the fall collection (Look 39) is a great example of that: It’s a does-it-all midi that Novak has worn countless times to work, weddings, and meetings—and styled it in a multitude of ways, with sneakers or heels, to suit the mood and occasion. Playing with proportion and materiality, she grounds the dress here with a Glenn Martens for Y/Project oversized denim jacket then creates tension and interest with green satin Prada pumps. The result? A day-to-night ensemble that’s elevated but still rooted in her comfort-first mindset.
Dressed-Up Denim
Denim doesn’t usually play a starring role in Novak’s wardrobe, but for Phoebe Philo she’ll make an exception. Here, she pairs a dark-wash style with an open-back silk top (also from the brand), her Elsa Peretti bean tassel necklace (of which she has interchangeable beans), and heeled loafers for a casual-chic lunch look with a fashion-forward twist. “I try not to wear light colors [or silks] when I’m doing inventory. People have open pens—I’ll lift a jacket and, before I know it, be covered in ink.” Novak says she usually carries the same purse every day, so when she’s being extra intentional about her handbag choice, she’ll reach for her Phoebe Philo Cadillac bag in a bold burgundy.
