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Inflamed, pimple-prone skin? The road to clear skin isn’t necessarily a 10-step K-beauty regimen or the trendiest serum. According to the experts, the best acne skin-care routine starts with consistency and avoiding the wrong ingredients. Chief among those irritating offenders? Fragrance and alcohol-laden formulas, which can wreak havoc on already inflamed, acne-prone skin. “When you’re dealing with breakouts, less is definitely more. To avoid drying out your skin or compromising your barrier with too many active products, it’s about balance, proper layering, and really listening to your skin,” board-certified dermatologist Dr. Noah Gratch tells Vogue. “That means resisting the urge to pile on actives all at once. If you’re using ingredients like benzoyl peroxide, salicylic acid, or retinoids, space them out. Apply one in the morning and another at night or on alternate days. Overlapping too many strong ingredients can lead to more breakouts.”
Just as crucial is what you pair those treatments with. “Always follow with a hydrating, non-comedogenic moisturizer—look for barrier-repairing ingredients like ceramides, hyaluronic acid, or niacinamide,” Dr. Gratch advises. “And when it comes to cleansing and exfoliating, be gentle. Use a mild, pH-balanced cleanser and limit exfoliants to two or three times a week, depending on your skin’s tolerance.”
Vogue’s Acne Skin-Care Essentials
- The Micellar Water: Bioderma Sensibio H2O Micellar Water, $20
- The Gentle Cleanser: IS Clinical Cleansing Complex, $49
- The Chemical Exfoliant: SkinMedica Acne Clarifying Treatment, $88
- The Weekly Face Mask: Kiehl’s Rare Earth Deep Pore Cleansing Face Mask, $47
- The Non-Comedogenic Moisturizer: Skinfix Barrier+ Skin Barrier Restoring Gel Cream, $54
- The Zit Zapping Tools: Omnilux Blemish Eraser, $95
- The Acne-Safe SPF: Coola Refreshing Water Plumping Gel SPF 30, $48
Still, even with the perfect regimen, results don’t happen overnight. And that’s where patience—and a bit of perspective—comes in. “There’s no quick fix for acne,” Catie Boucher, DCNP, FNP-C and founder of SavvyDerm tells Vogue. “I always go back to the 80/20 rule: 80% of your results come from staying consistent with your at-home routine, and 20% from in-clinic treatments. It’s easy to get pulled in by buzzy marketing, but long-term results come from consistency.”
Perhaps most importantly, Boucher emphasizes the need for personalization. “Every acne patient is different, so finding a provider who can tailor your routine to your specific type of acne is key,” she says. “It’s not just about what’s trending—it’s about what works for your skin.” Keeping this all in mind, the pros break it down in seven easy-to-follow steps, with acne-safe product suggestions for a fail-proof skin-care routine. Let’s get into it!
Step One: Start by Removing Makeup and SPF
It may come as no surprise, but double cleansing is an essential first step. The pros suggest starting off your routine with micellar water. “Removing makeup and SPF thoroughly is important to clear, healthy skin. Micellar water is a gentle, non-stripping option that doesn’t require scrubbing,” celebrity esthetician Kristin Gunn tells Vogue. “Micelles attract oil, dirt, and impurities like a magnet without disrupting your delicate skin barrier. This is crucial for those dealing with breakouts, as inflammation and barrier damage will worsen acne.”
Dr. Gratch reminds us that ingredients matter, especially with acne-prone skin. “Many micellar water options are formulated without alcohol, fragrance, or comedogenic ingredients, which reduces the risk of pore-clogging or further irritation. For those dealing with active breakouts or sensitive skin, these qualities make it a gentle yet effective choice first step in the cleaning process,” Dr. Gratch tells Vogue, with options from Bioderma, Avène, CosrX, and Cerave, all ticking the box.
Step Two: Follow Up With an Acne-Safe Cleanser
The pros agree that washing your face with a gentle cleanser is a must, both morning and night—consider it your first line of defense against fighting clogged pores. “While we sleep, our skin builds up oil that we should remove when we wake up, and cleansing at night is a must to remove anything we might have exposed our skin throughout the day,” board-certified nurse practitioner Natia Rufolo tells Vogue. As for which cleanser to choose? The key is striking a balance between gentle yet clarifying formulas that thoroughly rid the skin of its impurities without stripping and causing further irritation. “It’s crucial to look for cleansers labeled as non-comedogenic and fragrance-free to avoid pore-clogging agents and minimize irritation,” adds Dr. Gratch
“Since the cleanser is only on your skin briefly, you want something simple and non-irritating. One of the biggest misconceptions I constantly hear about acne patients is that they must be on a cleanser with actives. This couldn’t be further from the truth. Acne patients are usually already on enough actives,” says Boucher, who prefers gentle cream cleanser. Tatcha and La Roche-Posay offer creamy non-comedogenic formulas, while formulations from iS Clinical and Cetaphil feature low concentrations of the active salicylic acid for a little extra clarifying that doesn’t go overboard.
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Step Three: Apply Targeted Treatments
Exfoliation is a vital step in managing acne-prone skin, but it needs to be done thoughtfully. “When dead skin cells build up, they trap oil and bacteria, which leads to clogged pores and breakouts. Exfoliating helps prevent that cycle,” says Gunn. Many experts prefer chemical exfoliants over physical scrubs for their gentle yet effective approach. “Think of them like Pac-Man, eating away dead cells to reveal healthier, brighter skin underneath,” adds Boucher explaining that salicylic acid and the more gentle alternative, mandelic acid are standout ingredients.
“When dead skin builds up on the surface, it mixes with oil and bacteria, leading to blackheads, whiteheads, and inflammatory acne. Regular exfoliation helps keep the skin clear by promoting cell turnover—I typically recommend starting with 2–3 times per week,” says Dr. Gratch, advising to adjust your application based on how your skin responds. For gentle exfoliation, both Sofie Pavitt and The Ordinary offer mandelic acid options, while SkinMedica features a mild salicylic acid-based treatment. And for persistent acne, Differin gel remains a trusted go-to. Whatever you choose, the key is consistency—pick just one option and stick with it.
Step Four: Opt for a Weekly Face Mask
When used sparingly, deep cleansing masks can be a powerful addition to any acne-fighting routine. “I recommend using a deep cleansing face mask once to twice a week, maximum. Overdoing it can disrupt the skin barrier and actually make breakouts worse,” says Rufolo. While these masks are great for drawing out impurities, they should support your acne skin-care regimen—not overwhelm it. “Never layer your mask with other strong actives (like exfoliating acids or retinoids) on the same day to avoid stressing your skin barrier. Always follow up with your usual skin care and a hydrating moisturizer to keep the skin balanced,” she adds. Kiehl’s, Caudalie, and Isntree all offer clarifying clay masks that balance actives with calming botanicals. Meanwhile, Herbivore relies on fruit enzymes to exfoliate while blue tansy calms redness.
Step Five: Hydrate With a Non-Comedogenic Moisturizer
When choosing a moisturizer for acne-prone skin, there’s no one-size-fits-all answer—it’s all about understanding your skin’s unique needs. “Gel moisturizers are best for oily or combination skin. They’re typically lightweight, fast-absorbing, and won’t clog pores. They’re also great for layering under SPF or makeup,” says Gunn. “Cream moisturizers, on the other hand, are better for dry, dehydrated, or sensitized skin. They provide deeper hydration, which is essential if you’re using drying treatments like retinoids, benzoyl peroxide, or exfoliants.” Regardless of texture, Gunn emphasizes choosing a non-comedogenic, fragrance-free formula. Torn between the two? She suggests using a gel in the morning to keep skin light and breathable and a cream at night to replenish moisture while you sleep.
Step Six: Zap Zits with Spot Treatments
From pimple patches to high-tech LED gadgets, there are plenty of innovative spot treatments on the market designed to speed up the healing of persistent breakouts. More of a dessert than a main course, think of these as nice-to-haves to your basic acne skin-care routine. An editor favorite is Omnilux’s Blemish Eraser, a mini version of the brand’s cult-favorite LED face mask. It uses red and blue light therapy to target acne-causing bacteria, calm inflammation, and help prevent future breakouts. Prefer something more low-maintenance? You can’t go wrong with a classic hydrocolloid patch. Opt for the ultra-discreet Mighty Patch, or make it fun with one of Starface’s cheeky decorative options. For those looking for a multitasking tool, the Solawave wand delivers four treatments in one sleek device: red light therapy, microcurrent technology, facial massage, and therapeutic warmth. The result? A gadget that tackles wrinkles, dark spots, and blemishes—all at once.
Step Seven: In the Morning, Opt for a Non-Comedogenic SPF
Pro aestheticians and dermatologists agree: Never skip SPF—especially if you’re dealing with acne-prone skin. While the fear of a heavy, pore-clogging formula can make you hesitant to apply sunscreen, everyday protection is crucial. “A daily SPF is essential (even if you’re inside most of the day). UV exposure can worsen inflammation, slow healing, and darken acne scars,” says Gunn. This is especially important if you use exfoliants or treatments that increase sun sensitivity. Her recommendation? Opt for an oil-free, non-comedogenic, broad-spectrum SPF 30 or higher to shield your skin without weighing it down.
Meet the Experts
- Dr. Noah Gratch, MD, FAAD is a board-certified dermatologist who specializes in treatments for acne, eczema, hyperhidrosis, rosacea, psoriasis, and skin cancer.
- Catie Boucher, FNP-C, DCNP, is a board-certified dermatology nurse practitioner and founder of SavvyDerm.
- Kristin Gunn is a celebrity esthetician and owner of Halcyon Skincare and Beaux Medspa.
- Natia Rufolo, FNP, NP-C is a board-certified aesthetic injector, PDO thread specialist, and founder of INJX BY NAT Aesthetics.
