How to Prevent and Fade Hyperpigmentation, According to the Experts

First, a brief primer: “Hyperpigmentation occurs when excess melanin, the pigment responsible for skin color, is produced in certain areas of the skin,” Dr. Del Campo says. Depending on your skin tone, this melanin can appear as spots, patches, or just generally uneven skin tone.

As for the causes, these can vary—but inflammation plays a big role in sending production into overdrive, which is why the aptly named post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation is the most common form, according to Dr. Park. “Any type of traumatic or inflammatory event to the skin, including acne, has the potential to increase activity of the melanocytes, which are pigment-producing cells,” she says. That can cause pigment to “spill” out into the upper layers of skin.

Dija Ayodele, an aesthetician and author of Black Skin, explains that several things can cause hyperpigmentation:

1. Sun exposure: The sun is a major contributor. UV rays stimulate melanin production, leading to darker patches in areas where the skin is overexposed.
2. Inflammation: Skin conditions such as acne, spots, or blackheads, particularly when picked at, can trigger inflammation that leads to hyperpigmentation. Eczema and other inflammatory skin conditions can also cause discoloration.
3. Mechanical damage: Repeated actions like shaving, tweezing, threading, or waxing can injure the skin, which in turn leads to dark spots or patches.
4. Allergies: Allergic reactions, especially those that involve constant rubbing of the skin around the eyes or nose, can inflame the skin. This is especially pronounced on Black skin due to more active melanin cells.
5. Injuries and wounds: Cuts, scrapes, and general wounds can leave behind hyperpigmented areas as the skin heals.
6. Hormonal changes: Menopause, along with other hormonal fluctuations, can affect skin quality, potentially increasing patchiness and hyperpigmentation.

Essentially, any source of inflammation or irritation, combined with the body’s natural response through melanin production, can lead to hyperpigmentation.

Post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation often contributes to the dark spots that arise after a breakout or acne scarring when you’re dealing with a stain on skin versus a textural concern (like an indentation in skin). They can fade on their own over time, but the process may take weeks to months, Dr. Park says. Meanwhile, “lentigos, or sunspots, are seen in photodamaged skin and due to an increase in melanocyte activity caused by UV exposure,” she says.

Yet another form of hyperpigmentation is melasma, which is frequently seen among pregnant people (although anyone can develop it). “It is a benign condition that causes hyperpigmentation most commonly presenting above the lip in the mustache area, cheeks, and forehead,” Dr. Park says. Hormones and UV exposure can both play a role, contributing to an uptick in melanin production that ultimately leads to a brown-toned discoloration. It can become chronic, too, meaning that a thoughtful approach with the help of a dermatologist is usually recommended for this.

People with darker skin tend to be especially vulnerable to hyperpigmentation “due to having more active melanocytes,” Dr. Danilo says. That means that any skin trauma, inflammation, or hormonal changes can result in more noticeable dark spots—which is why post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation tends to be a bigger problem among this demographic than it is among people with fair skin. (In fact, research has found it to be the earliest sign of aging among people of color, whereas white folks are more prone to wrinkles.)

It depends on the pigmentation in question. “Over-the-counter face serums can be effective, especially for milder cases of post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation,” Dr. Danilo says; these include acne scars or minor skin wounds. That’s because the melanin is in the epidermis, or most superficial, layer of skin.

On the other hand, “pigmentation disorders caused by deposition of melanin in deeper layers of the skin, which is more rarely seen, will not respond to these types of topical treatments and should be evaluated by a board-certified dermatologist,” Dr. Park says. “For a condition like melasma, which is environmentally dependent, it is a chronic struggle that will unfortunately worsen at times.”

Also, if you experience recurrent hyperpigmentation stemming from a repeat cause—for instance, acne continuously pops up, creating new dark spots—then a visit to the dermatologist is recommended so you can address the underlying issue (in this case, the acne).

Finally, keep in mind that addressing hyperpigmentation is a commitment. “Any treatment used for dyspigmentation will realistically take weeks to months and require consistent use,” Dr. Park says. “Results are not immediate but gradual.” And on that note, to both see and maintain results, using a broad-spectrum sunscreen with SPF 30 or higher is critical. “Without consistent sun protection, it’s very hard to see significant improvements, as UV exposure can quickly undo the progress made by serums,” Dr. Del Campo says.

One advantage of hyperpigmentation is that, when it comes to active ingredients, the world is your oyster. There are a bevy of actives that can help, some of which are recognizable even to skin-care newcomers. Vitamin C, for instance, is “a powerful antioxidant that brightens and inhibits melanin production,” Dr. Del Campo says. (Dr. Park, for her part, thinks that it should be a staple in any good skin-care regimen, hyperpigmentation notwithstanding.)

Niacinamide is another ingredient that’s earned recent buzz; it works through a different mechanism than vitamin C to stymie pigment production, which is why you can frequently find them paired together. It “helps reduce the appearance of dark spots and strengthens the skin barrier, making it especially useful for sensitive skin types,” Dr. Del Campo says. Azelaic acid is another ingredient he recommends, especially for post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation and melasma. “It works by inhibiting an enzyme involved in melanin production,” he says. You’ll also see kojic acid, tranexamic acid, and licorice extract among these formulas.

Finally, anything that helps skin shed its upper layer—which may house melanin deposits—can also fade the look of hyperpigmentation. That includes alpha hydroxy acids, such as glycolic acids, and retinoids. “These promote skin cell turnover, which helps fade dark spots over time,” Dr. Del Campo says.

Besides using a hyperpigmentation serum after the fact—and being proactive about your sun protection—early intervention can make a world of difference. It can be difficult to completely prevent hyperpigmentation, Dr. Mitchell says, but incorporating gentle exfoliation and antioxidants (via a vitamin C serum) in your skin-care routine can keep it from getting worse.

It can also help to identify (and address) the source of your hyperpigmentation, which is part of the reason wearing sunscreen is so important. UV rays not only worsen discoloration, but they can also “trigger melanin production,” Dr. Mitchell says. And if your dark spots are the result of an inflammatory event in your skin—like, for instance, a breakout—then being proactive about your acne treatment can effectively remove the root cause.

If you’re strategic about the ingredients in your serum and diligent about using it, then, yes, serums for hyperpigmentation are worth it to fade dark spots or discoloration. “Preventing hyperpigmentation comes down to proactive sun protection and early intervention,” Dr. Mitchell says. And a consistent routine—inclusive of a serum for hyperpigmentation—is a key part of the latter.

However, keep in mind that the type of hyperpigmentation you’re targeting can matter. For sun spots and acne marks, “ingredients like vitamin C and niacinamide can be quite helpful in fading dark spots over time,” Dr. Del Campo says. But for melasma, which is one of the more stubborn forms of hyperpigmentation, an over-the-counter serum might not be strong enough to deliver results, he says. In that case, “prescription treatments or procedures may be needed,” he says.

“Serums have a very fine and lightweight texture, so they are able to penetrate the skin,” Ayodele explains, while Dr. Vanita Rattan, cosmetic formulator and CEO of Skincare by DrV, adds a caveat: “Serums with a higher fat content tend to absorb better into the skin compared to silicone-based gels and watery serums.” Then, of course, it’s all down to the ingredients. “You want a mixture of things that all work in slightly different ways on pigmentation,” Ayodele shares. She recommends hexylresorcinol, alpha arbutin, kojic acid, hydroquinone (on prescription only), niacinamide, vitamin C, retinoid, and liquorice extract. Tranexamic acid, which is similar to glutathione, is also great to use, while “glycolic, lactic, and azelaic acid all help to smooth and refine skin texture, getting rid of old skin cells that can hang on to stale pigment on the surface of the epidermis.”

“It depends on how stubborn the pigmentation is, how long it’s been there for, and whether the triggers are ongoing,” Dr. Vanita says. “For example, if you have melasma and you’re not protecting your skin from UV radiation by using a broad-spectrum SPF, it’s just going to get worse and worse, especially in the summertime.” That said, she continues, it’s easier to treat new instances of hyperpigmentation, such as dark spots that crop up after pimples or mosquito bites, right away. “If the hyperpigmentation has been there for a long time, as in the case of melasma or dark circles, it’s much harder to treat. This can take six to nine cell cycles, meaning six to nine months, before you see results.”

Preventing and managing hyperpigmentation involves a combination of daily skin-care practices and occasional professional treatments. Although hyperpigmentation is a natural skin process, the following steps can help prevent it and fade existing dark spots:

• Tailor your skin-care routine: A skin-care routine tailored to your skin type can help maintain the integrity of your skin barrier, which can minimize the irritation and inflammation that often leads to hyperpigmentation and dark spots.
• Use pigment-inhibiting ingredients: Incorporating ingredients such as vitamin C, niacinamide, azelaic acid, or hydroquinone into your skin-care routine can help regulate melanin production and prevent dark spots from forming or worsening.
• Apply SPF every single day: Regular use of sunscreen with an SPF of 30 or higher is essential in preventing hyperpigmentation. UV exposure can worsen dark spots and slow the fading process, so protecting your skin from the sun is crucial.
• Get professional treatments: Chemical peels exfoliate the top layers of the skin, encouraging the production of new skin cells and helping to fade hyperpigmentation, while microneedling can stimulate skin healing and promote collagen production, which can improve the appearance of dark spots.

• Dr. Danilo Del Campo, MD, is a board-certified dermatologist at Chicago Skin Clinic in Chicago.
• Dr. Hope Mitchell, MD, is a board-certified dermatologist in Perrysburg, Ohio.
• Dr. Michelle Park, MD, is a board-certified dermatologist at Washington Square Dermatology in New York.