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“Aquatic fragrances are designed to capture the fresh, breezy essence of water, whether it’s the ocean, a cool lake, or a misty morning,” says Nicole Mancini, principal perfumer at international flavoring and fragrance company dsm-firmenich.
The concept is straightforward, and getting a whiff of an aquatic fragrance would make you believe executing it is simple—these scents are often light and crisp, with an inherent effortlessness that’s not as common in other perfume categories. But nothing could be farther from the truth: After all, water itself is unscented, so what’s really being harnessed here is the idea of a smell. “Perfumers recreate its presence through synthetic molecules that mimic its airy, fluid quality, emphasizing an invigorating freshness that defines the category,” says Pierre Vouard, fragrance marketing consultant and adjunct professor at the Fashion Institute of Technology.
Vogue’s Favorite Aquatic Fragrances:
- The Summer-Inspired: D.S. Durga Rose Atlantic Eau de Parfum, $210
- The Salty Option: Maison Margiela Replica Sailing Day Eau de Toilette, $85
- The Airy Button-Down: Henry Rose Jake’s House Eau de Parfum, $120
- The Coastal Day: Jo Malone Wood Sage Sea Salt Cologne, $168
- The Classic Choice: Giorgio Armani Acqua di Gió Eau de Toilette, $120
- The Light Green: Maison Francis Kurkdjian Aqua Media Cologne Forte, $155
- The Subtle Smell: Liis Lucienne Eau de Parfum, $175
In This Story:
There’s a good chance that aquatic perfumes as we know them would not exist today if not for Calone. With an ozonic, crisp, and slightly fruity scent reminiscent of freshly-cut watermelon, this aromachemical became a darling of perfumers around the world in the 1990s, which is when the aquatic fragrance category was born. “Aquatic fragrances offered a refreshing contrast to the rich, opulent perfumes of the decade prior, ushering in a new era of minimalism in scent,” says Vouard.
Perhaps unsurprisingly, you’ll also often find Ambroxan in aquatic fragrances—this aromachemical is a vegan alternative to ambergris, a whale-derived ingredient used in perfume—as well as Aquazone, a note that’s similar to Calone but with a saltier, more iodine-like aroma. You’ll also see more recognizable, plant-derived notes, which can serve as helpful guides as you shop. For example, maybe you’re looking for an aquatic fragrance that’s like a Caribbean vacation in a bottle. “Coconut adds a tropical, creamy warmth,” says Mancini. “Aromatic notes, such as herbs and spices, introduce a fresh, herbal dimension, while lemon and bergamot bring a zesty brightness.” (Great when you’re seeking out aquatic scents that call to mind damp gardens or Mediterranean holidays, respectively.) Woods, like sandalwood, cedar, and oud, can provide warmth and depth.
From the ’90s to present day, here are some of the best aquatic fragrances on the market.
The Summer-Inspired: D.S. Durga Rose Atlantic Eau de Parfum
- Why We Love It: Inspired by summers spent seaside in New England, this perfume utilizes an unexpected form of rose—rather than the powdery or velvety floral notes you find in many fragrances, this one is sweet, evoking the delicate beach rose (rosa rugosa) that grows along the shoreline during warmer months. To really capture the coastal vibes, the jammy rose is paired with notes of salt and seawater, the salinity of which are tempered by green dune grass and effervescent bergamot. It all comes together to create a scent that’s somehow modern yet nostalgic.
- Key Notes: Bergamot, rose, seawater, dune grass
- Size: 1.7 fl. oz.
The Salty Option: Maison Margiela Replica Sailing Day Eau de Toilette
- Why We Love It: Though this is definitely more of a masculine fragrance, anyone who enjoys a crisp, light aquatic scent will appreciate this eau de toilette from Maison Margiela. “I love Replica Sailing Day—it’s a fresh, invigorating scent that gives me the feeling of gliding on open waters,” says Mancini. The scent opens with aromatic coriander, sea notes, and sparkling aldehydes. As it dries down, “the salty, woody freshness of red seaweed is associated with the mineral notes of ambergris, evoking the depth of the ocean,” says Vouard.
- Key Notes: Coriander, seaweed, cedar
- Size: 1 oz.
The Airy Button-Down: Henry Rose Jake’s House Eau de Parfum
- Why We Love It: This airy, unisex scent from clean fragrance brand Henry Rose is effortlessly chic and sexy; it’s the perfume equivalent of a white linen button-down left casually open. The artful blend of neroli and jasmine with marine and musk notes is well balanced so as not to skew overly feminine or masculine, and is sheer enough to layer with other fragrances, but no need—it’s completely dreamy worn on its own.
- Key Notes: Marine notes, neroli, ambroxan
- Size: 1.7 fl. oz.
The Serene Scent: The Nue Co. Relax Water Therapy Fragrance
- Why We Love It: Reach for this scent on busy mornings, when you want your fragrance to act like peaceful background music rather than a dramatic solo. Notes of sandalwood, seaweed, amber, and sea salt get a bit of a masculine edge from fir that’s then softened with feminine rose, all of which sit very close to the skin. This fragrance is actually an aromatherapeutic perfume, inspired by the concept of thalassotherapy—the serenity felt when you’re near water—and it definitely lives up to its calming claims.
- Key Notes: Seaweed, marine salt, amber
- Size: 1.7 fl. oz.
The Sunny Day: Jo Malone Wood Sage Sea Salt Cologne
- Why We Love It: Perfectly gender neutral, this bestselling Jo Malone scent reminds us of a hot afternoon spent at a rocky beach. It opens with bright, sunny grapefruit, quickly fading to marine notes of seaweed and salt. The heart notes of sage and ambrette combine to create a unique sense of dry warmth, like driftwood and pebbles that have soaked up hours of sun on a still day.
- Key Notes: Salt, grapefruit, ambrette
- Size: 3.4 fl. oz.
The Classic Choice: Giorgio Armani Acqua di Gió Eau de Toilette
- Why We Love It: The odds are very high that you’ve smelled this one before—according to Vouard, it’s one of the most successful aquatic fragrances of all time, earning the title of top men’s fragrance in the US for 11 years in a row.
- It’s a masterpiece, blending Calone and sea notes with a cornucopia of citrus fruits (including lime and bergamot), a garden’s worth of lush flowers (jasmine, hyacinth, and violet, to name a few), and aromatic herbs to create a scent that’s bright, warm, and soft. Key Notes: Calone, lime, patchouli
- Size: 1.7 fl. oz.
The Oceanic Floral: Skylar Salt Air Eau de Parfum
- Why We Love It: The name of this unisex scent is simple yet apt, considering how mineralic and ozonic the fragrance really is. Sand, driftwood, and sandalwood give it a somewhat dry quality, while very subtle white floral notes add a hint of “clean laundry” vibes. The perfume leaves behind a bolder trail than many others in this category, making it a nice choice for misting mid-winter when you’re craving a beachy getaway.
- Key Notes: Driftwood, sand, sandalwood
- Size: 1.7 fl. oz.
The Edgy Aroma: Tom Ford Oud Minérale Eau de Parfum
- Why We Love It: This one’s a real chameleon and best for someone who gravitates towards bolder, edgier scents that lean masculine. The sea notes take some time to reveal themselves—you’ll first notice smoky styrax and rich oud, which gives the fragrance an earthy and almost gasoline-like aroma. After a few minutes, the air clears, giving way to a perfume that smells salty and gritty, like a rocky coast.
- Key Notes: Sea notes, oud, seagrass
- Size: 1.6 fl. oz.
The Light Green: Maison Francis Kurkdjian Aqua Media Cologne Forte
- Why We Love It: While most aquatic scents are reminiscent of ocean water, Maison Francis Kurkdjian’s captures the essence of rainwater, making the notes of verbena, bergamot, and matcha smell even greener and fresher. Grounded by spicy fennel and velvety musks, this unisex cologne boasts impressively long wear, yet is refreshing and light enough to wear on a super humid day.
- Key Notes: Fennel, bergamot, musk
- Size: 1.2 fl. oz.
The Subtle Smell: Liis Lucienne Eau de Parfum
- Why We Love It: This is a sophisticated aquatic skin scent, only projecting enough for those very close to be able to sniff the blend of rose, magnolia, citrus, and ocean notes. I like spraying this one on bare skin after showering as well as ahead of situations where I want to smell wonderful without overwhelming others—it’s subtle, sophisticated, and clean.
- Key Notes: Magnolia, pomelo, sea notes
- Size: 1.7 fl. oz.
The Spring Shower: Issey Miyake L’Eau d’Issey Eau de Toilette
- Why We Love It: This scent came out in the early 1990s and it’s been a bestseller ever since. It’s at once heady yet crisp, thanks to a blend of feminine florals (like freesia, lily of the valley, and tuberose) and watery botanicals (melon and lotus), creating a “serene, zen, rain-like effect,” says Vouard. It’s perfect for spring—imagine April showers in a bottle.
- Key Notes: Calone, rose water, lotus
- Size: 1.7 fl. Oz.
The Ambery Mist: Victoria Beckham Beauty Portofino ’97 Eau de Parfum
- Why We Love It: This unisex perfume leans masculine, with warm amber and earthy patchouli anchoring marine notes, vibrant bergamot, and piquant black pepper. Inspired by a clandestine Italian vacation that Posh and Becks took in 1997, it’s perfect for sharing with your significant other if you both appreciate a bolder scent. The flask-like bottle adds a gorgeous pop of color to any fragrance collection.
- Key Notes: Black pepper, sea notes, patchouli
- Size: 1.7 fl. oz.
Everything You Need to Know
What are the most popular aquatic fragrances?
Aquatic fragrances started out as a minimalist genre that spotlighted airy, lightweight scents, but the category has evolved over the years; today’s aquatic perfumes can be rich and complex. Regardless of whether it’s breezy or bold, the key to a great aquatic fragrance is balance, says Vouard. “A standout aquatic scent uses contrast—perhaps pairing its breezy freshness with woods, florals, or musks for depth and evolution,” he explains.
Some of the earliest aquatic fragrances remain popular today due to their beautifully balanced blends, including the aforementioned Issey Miyake L’Eau D’Issey and Giorgio Armani Acqua Di Gio. More recently-launched favorites include the above Maison Margiela Replica Sailing Day, as well as Ellis Brooklyn SALT Eau de Parfum. “This fresh, modern take on aquatic perfumery captures the dreamy essence of an ocean breeze, blending crisp marine notes with lush, tropical florals and the warmth of sun-kissed skin,” says Mancini. “It’s effortlessly chic, irresistibly wearable, and perfect for anyone who wants to bottle up that carefree, just-back-from-the-beach feeling.”
How to Layer Aquatic Fragrances
The aquatic category should be a staple of any fragrance wardrobe due to these scents’ versatility. While some have enough complexity to stand alone, many of them are nicely complemented by other perfumes, making them ideal for layering. Vouard recommends choosing your fragrance pairings by category, noting that aquatics tend to pair well with white florals, fruity notes, and woods—so feel free to start mixing and matching. “Test combinations on your skin and give them time to settle before committing,” suggests Mancini, who recommends applying to your pulse points (your wrists and neck) to help the fragrances blend naturally with your skin’s warmth.
If you’re not confident in your fragrance cocktailing abilities, remember that you don’t have to mist on multiple perfumes. “You can also experiment by mixing different concentrations, such as an eau de parfum with a scented body lotion, for a softer, more layered effect,” Mancini says.
Meet the Experts
- Nicole Mancini is a Principal Perfumer at dsm-firmenich.
- Pierre Vouard is a fragrance marketing consultant and adjunct professor at the Fashion Institute of Technology.