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Over the past decade, the art of shopping has shifted. While buying a brand-new Louis Vuitton Neverfull tote or Miu Miu mini dress was once the ultimate luxury, hunting for and finding secondhand treasures, such as that Phoebe Philo Celine Spring 2017 runway dress or Prada Fall 1999 suede foliage jacket, now takes the cake as the more rewarding shopping experience.
The thrill of shopping new-season clothing may still exist, but it simply isn’t what it used to be. Secondhand marketplaces provide endless access to famed collections of the past—pieces that carry history and lore; are the footprints of a fashion house, and bona fide heirlooms that remain in the zeitgeist. Sure, there’s a time and place for a quick-hit purchase or boutique visit, but if you’ve spent hours on Vogue Runway sifting through the 2000s and 1990s collections, days monitoring your eBay watch list, or months tracking your saved searches on The Real Real, then you’re familiar with the particular high of adding a secondhand piece—something that might even be passed down through generations—to your wardrobe.
There are many reasons for this change in consumer preference—an abundance in pieces in the secondhand market, a pull to shop in a more environmentally-friendly way, and far better prices (for both buyers and consigners, especially when it comes to investment handbags), to name a few. As a result of these changes, a new wave of vintage enthusiasts have opened their own businesses. While The Real Real, eBay, and Vestiaire Collective reign supreme as the big resources in secondhand retail, a bevy of smaller online boutiques and connoisseurs offer more niche perspectives (and educations) on how to source vintage, what runway collections to know about, how to authenticate your purchases, and how to wear each find.
In celebration of Earth Month (a mindset to be applied year-round), we spoke with 12 vintage connoisseurs and shop owners from New York City to Los Angeles to inform the vintage and resale curious who are eager to expand their knowledge or begin collecting more seriously. From digital destinations like Either Store and Can’t Not, which are run by true vintage experts to local hubs, such as New York’s Desert Vintage and California’s Happy Isles, below are the celeb-loved haunts, tapped-in experts, and popular Instagram accounts from coast to coast to know about now.
Gabriel Held Vintage
A New York-based vintage dealer and stylist, Gabriel Held has worked with top-tier clients, including Bella Hadid, Keke Palmer, Paris Hilton, and Azealia Banks. His Instagram account features a feed flooded with his work and inspiration—imagery that should be part of any vintage shopper’s curriculum and mood board. A vetted fashion historian and archivist, Gabriel takes appointments for private clients and shares his portfolio with his community as a means for inspiration. Whether you’re looking for vintage pointers or just perusing, his account is an instant follow.
Vintage Grace
Founded in 2021 by Chandler Guttersen, Vintage Grace is another New York-based resource to have on your rader. “We are inspired by the craftsmanship and heritage behind true luxury fashion, and want to share the storied history of vintage garments,” Chandler tells Vogue. “As vintage lovers and curators, we emphasize not only the tangible but also the sentimental value of our archive. We are focused on preserving fashion history and hope to inspire a more sustainable way of shopping.”
Samantha Friedman
Stylist and owner of The Drop, the online vintage shopping destination that features Sunday drops on Instagram Stories, Samantha Friedman has studied fashion throughout her career as a stylist. Now, she’s sharing what she knows with her community. “The Drop is a carefully-curated vintage boutique and archive for women,” she says. “We offer luxury vintage from 1970 to the 2000s, bringing it to our customers at a reasonable price point.” The best part about The Drop, of course, is the rush one gets when DMing to make a purchase during those Sunday sales.
Happy Isles
A destination for every fashion girl, this boutique was originally founded in Los Angeles and is a go-to for finding special occasion dresses. Now, it’s a bi-coastal spot. “Happy Isles is a by-appointment vintage destination and bridal salon with two locations, in Los Angeles and New York City,” founder Lily Kaizer says. “The salon curates with an eye towards excellent condition, designer labels, and collectible heirloom pieces from the ’30s to 2010s.” If you’re a bridesmaid helping someone with their big day, this is a perfect place to take any bride.
Jenny Walton
Name a more devout online vintage queen. Jenny Walton has been at it for over a decade, sharing her vintage Miu Miu and Prada pieces (she does live in Milan, after all) with her following. Along with sharing her “Runway Rundown” with her audience on current collections, Jenny shares her vintage finds on her Substack and, of course, on Vogue, with her column From the Archives. If you’re looking for vintage outfit inspiration, this is a tried-and-true expert.
Desert Vintage
Founded in 1974 in Tucson, Arizona, Desert Vintage only recently made its way to Orchard Street in New York City. After opening on the east coast in 2021, the shop quickly became a must-stop on any Lower East Sider’s shopping tour. The offering is an extremely curated and luxurious collection of western-inspired and antique pieces—some dating back to the turn of the century. From no-name, exquisite coats to ’70s Gucci, Desert Vintage has the crème de la crème.
James Veloria
Run by co-owners Collin James and Brandon Veloria, James Veloria is a New York-native go-to shop for fashion gurus, and now it also has a Los Angeles hub. Priding themselves on having fun with fashion, the assortment reflects the business’s values. “We sell fun and irreverent vintage designer clothing from the ’90s and ’00s at an accessible price point,” Veloria says. “You’ll find racks filled with a rotating selection from subversive, avant garde designers like Jean Paul Gaultier, Comme des Garçons, Vivienne Westwood, and Martin Margiela.”
Either Store
A deep cut but still fan favorite among vintage lovers (the Instagram account has been reposted by Chloë Sevigny herself), Either Store is “here for the nostalgic, the exciting, and the classic,” says owner Juno De La Cruz. “Timeless doesn’t have to be boring. I most admire creative geniuses like Westwood, Miguel Adrover, Kawakubo, and Watanabe, to name a few.” Shop on Either Store’s Instagram page using Direct Messaging, and Juno, who is based in Santa Maria, California, California, will ensure you find the piece you’re looking for.
Cop Me If You Can
Speaking of this account, it is certainly another to mark as a vintage encyclopedia and place to shop. Owned by Leon Teke, who is based in Berlin, the account is entirely shoppable (just DM to make a purchase). Leon sources pieces like Jean Paul Gaultier from the ’80s and Prada from the ’90s—essentially, everything any true vintage fan would be hunting for, and it all goes fast.
Cant Not
A UK-based podcast dedicated to vintage collectors from all over the world, Cant Not is both a shoppable Instagram account and media company. Episodes of the podcast feature vintage gurus such as “thrift queen” Macy Eleni, The Archivist, and Leon Teke of Cop. “We curate the best online vintage so that you don’t have to,” says Stina, the owner. “The podcast dives into the world of your favorite collectors, looks at how we can create a more conscious fashion system, and highlights the most coveted designers in vintage right now.”
Club Vintage
Described as a department store of vintage sellers, Club Vintage is based in New York City’s Seaport. Just by looking at their Instagram’s following list, one can tell this is an It girl’s hotspot for sourcing fashion and home finds. “We have 103 internationally-based resellers in our store and online,” says owner and vintage expert Anna Gray. “Probably your favorite ones.”
Chickee’s Vintage
Last, but most certainly not least, is a mainstay in the Brooklyn vintage scene. Chickee’s Vintage was launched in 2019 by owner Kathleen Sorbara who worked as a model before opening her boutique in Williamsburg. Inspired by a love for thrifting, she sources vintage pieces from around the world as well as curates finds from small, sustainable designers. Follow the account to stay up to date on what’s in store, or even better, make a visit next time you’re in the neighborhood—it’s always an uplifting stop.