The Best Womenswear Is at the Menswear Shows

The Best Womenswear Is at the Menswear Shows

The ready-to-wear shows are starting in less than two weeks, but already we’ve seen some incredible women’s fashion at the men’s shows (and not just because we were on Tár-watch, imagining the looks from the collections that Lydia Tár, played by Cate Blanchett in the Academy Award-nominated film Tár, might wear). Perhaps because their main focus is menswear, these clothes often have a different point of view from women’s style—and seem closer to an utopian vision of gender-neutral fashion. While some designers lean into the contrast of classically gendered clothes, others instead show the same shapes and silhouettes; baggy trousers and jackets, maxi skirts, and chunky knits on models of all gender presentations. 

Playing with silhouette and proportion Martine Rose creates a jacket that is both oversized yet fits snug at the chest....

Playing with silhouette and proportion, Martine Rose creates a jacket that is both oversized yet fits snug at the chest. When paired with a mini-wrap skirt, it becomes grounded. You think, Isn’t this what jackets have always looked like?

Photo: Andrea Adriani / Gorunway.com
At Our Legacy a monochromatic look was offset by different textures all in different shades of terracotta. Best of all...

At Our Legacy, a monochromatic look was offset by different textures, all in different shades of terracotta. Best of all, this is a look made for surviving the elements.

Photo: Isak Berglund Mattsson-Mårn / Courtesy of Our Legacy
Officine Gnrale was all about smart sleek clothes with a hint of sophistication that never abandoned the most essential...

Officine Générale was all about smart, sleek clothes with a hint of sophistication that never abandoned the most essential feeling of ease.

Photo: Isidore Montag / Gorunway.com
Ernest W. Bakers designers Reid Baker and Ines Amorim introduced a womenswear offering this season and the vibe...

Ernest W. Baker’s designers Reid Baker and Ines Amorim introduced a womenswear offering this season and the vibe perfectly mimicked that of their menswear—cool suits for cool people.  

Photo: Courtesy of Ernest W. Baker
Ernest W. Baker

Ernest W. Baker

Photo: Courtesy of Ernest W. Baker
Lemaire

Lemaire

Photo: Lena Emery / Courtesy of Lemaire
Sacai. Maxi skirts—for everyone—were everywhere this season.

Sacai. Maxi skirts—for everyone—were everywhere this season. 

photo: Filippo Fior / Gorunway.com
Wales Bonners Grace Wales Bonner collaborated with the artist and curator Lubaina Himid. The geometric print on this...

Wales Bonner’s Grace Wales Bonner collaborated with the artist and curator Lubaina Himid. The geometric print on this tunic was directly inspired by one of her paintings.

Photo: Courtesy of Wales Bonner
Junichi Abes collection for Kolor featured deconstructed and layered shirts jackets and pants in earthy shades.

Junichi Abe’s collection for Kolor featured deconstructed and layered shirts, jackets, and pants in earthy shades.

Photo: Alessandro Lucioni / Gorunway.com
Doublet

Doublet

Photo: Isidore Montag / Gorunway.com
The Lemaire show featured models walking in every direction the gender lines of the cast—and the clothes—were further...

The Lemaire show featured models walking in every direction; the gender lines of the cast—and the clothes—were further blurred amid the crowd.

Photo: Lena Emery / Courtesy of Lemaire
Bluemarble

Bluemarble

Photo: Isidore Montag / Gorunway.com
Ami

Ami

Photo: Filippo Fior / Gorunway.com
Emily Adams Bode Aujlas first womenswear collection at Bode was full of delicate gowns whose silhouettes and textures...

Emily Adams Bode Aujla’s first womenswear collection at Bode was full of delicate gowns whose silhouettes and textures harked back to the early 20th century.

Photo: Filippo Fior / Gorunway.com
Bode

Bode

Photo: Filippo Fior / Gorunway.com
At Marine Serre a long jacket made from reworked tapestry fabrics.

At Marine Serre, a long jacket made from reworked tapestry fabrics.

Photo: Carlo Scarpato / Gorunway.com
Kenzo

Kenzo

photo: Filippo Fior / Gorunway.com
A fringed skirt and delicately crochet polo top captured the Wales Bonner aesthetic.

A fringed skirt and delicately crochet polo top captured the Wales Bonner aesthetic.

Photo: Courtesy of Wales Bonner
The wrap skirt emerged as one of the key pieces of the season. At Charles Jeffrey Loverboy it was layered over an...

The wrap skirt emerged as one of the key pieces of the season. At Charles Jeffrey Loverboy it was layered over an oversized button-down shirt (and matching tie) and more interestingly, an extra-wide gold belt.

Photo: Filippo Fior / Gorunway.com
Charles Jeffrey Loverboy

Charles Jeffrey Loverboy

Photo: Filippo Fior / Gorunway.com
Wooyoungmi

Wooyoungmi

Photo: Daniele Oberrauch / Gorunway.com
Officine Gnrale

Officine Générale

Photo: Isidore Montag / Gorunway.com
Our Legacy

Our Legacy

Photo: Isak Berglund Mattsson-Mårn / Courtesy of Our Legacy
The best case for layering a skirt  over pants  at Our Legacy.

The best case for layering a skirt (black leather) over pants (pink corduroy) at Our Legacy

Photo: Isak Berglund Mattsson-Mårn / Courtesy of Our Legacy
Martine Rose

Martine Rose

Photo: Andrea Adriani / Gorunway.com
Marine Serre

Marine Serre

Photo: Carlo Scarpato / Gorunway.com
Botters experiments with cutouts and deconstruction resulted in a very hip pair of sailorstyle pants.

Botter’s experiments with cutouts and deconstruction resulted in a very hip pair of sailor-style pants.

Photo: Salvatore Dragone / Gorunway.com
Matthew Williams brings genderneutral formal shorts back into style at Alyx.

Matthew Williams brings gender-neutral formal shorts back into style at Alyx.

Photo: Isidore Montag / Gorunway.com
Officine Gnrale

Officine Générale

Photo: Isidore Montag / Gorunway.com
Ami founder Alexandre Mattiussi had one of the best casts this season highlighting models of a certain age like Malgosia...

Ami founder Alexandre Mattiussi had one of the best casts this season, highlighting models of a certain age like Malgosia Bela, Audrey Marnay, and most notably, the actress Charlotte Rampling, who closed the show in a slouchy navy blue suit.

Photo: Filippo Fior / Gorunway.com