Minimalist, elegant, powerful: ’90s heels were just that girl—collective—and they’re so back for 2026.
When we think about the heel trends and shoe designs of the formidable, stylish decade, most of us will go straight to that classic kitten heel. But there’s so many more options to choose from, in various silhouettes and vibes, ultra-minimalist and marvelously maximalist. Consider the ’90s heels from the big players: Chanel’s two-tone pumps, Miu Miu’s geometric, stacked loafers, and Prada’s Mary Jane. Right now, all those nostalgic styles are presenting themselves in a more contemporary way, and made all the more essential.
While the spring 2026 runways saw the proposal of much more avant-garde silhouettes—from Proenza Schouler’s bow heels, to Bottega Veneta’s clogs, and Balenciaga’s tough ballerinas—’90s styles reigned supreme. For several reasons: they’re low-key sophisticated, add easy interest to an outfit, and can both both elevate a simple jeans and top look or add extra sex appeal to a mini-dress. It’s not for nothing that these styles were a favorite of the top models of the time.
Of course, going vintage should be a top priority, but there’s also plenty of cool-girl brands articulating their own fresh takes on the ’90s stompers. Here are the six key heel trends shining this season.
6 Heels From the ’90s Making a Big Return in 2026
The two-tone heeled shoes are so back, all thanks to Matthieu Blazy. In 1992, Chanel immortalized the iconic shoe in its spring collection, in which Linda Evangelista opened the show wearing an elegant black-and-white pair, which continue to this day to be worn on and off the runways. Opt for classic triangle toe silhouettes, and style them faithfully with skirt suits, tailored pants, and dresses, or, modernize them with some straight-leg jeans.
The Mary Jane shoe can get a bad rep—sometimes, they can come across quite schoolgirlish. But style them right, and they’re endlessly feminine and chic. Just take the sharp-toed and wedge styles of Prada. Christy Turlington was a fan, and it’s a style you’ll still see on the streets of Milano and Roma. The sophisticated and more formal design pairs perfectly with shift dresses and midi skirts, a silhouette that you can wear day and night.
Nostalgia really is the name of the game among shoe designers, but many are adding a more modern edge, too. Last season, Gucci reinvented its iconic red Ancora loafers from the ’90s—those that Helena Christensen wore for the fall 1995 fashion show, a pair with a square toe, golden equestrian buckle, chunky heel ,and distinctive red jewel tone. This time around, the platform is raised up another few inches to become more outre and extreme. Perfect for giving a glamorous twist to mini-dresses, micro-shorts, flared pants, and teeny-tiny skirts.
If there is one pair of heels that screams ’90s, it’s the mule. The minimalist sandal has some serious star power, worn by top models from Kate Moss to Cindy Crawford. This is an option that stands out for how versatile and timeless a design it is.
Square toe heels can’t be missed on this list: this infallible silhouettes is a sophisticated style with a masculine touch. Miu Miu, Prada, and Alexander McQueen have all produced their own versions. Kendall Jenner, Rosalia, and Daisy Edgar-Jones can often be found in a square-toed set, usually styled with elegant tailored pants and blue jeans.
It is impossible to talk about the footwear that reigned in the ’90s without mentioning transparent heels. Loved and hated in equal parts, they were one of those pieces that defined a very particular strain of minimalism, in force until the mid-2000s. On his spring summer 1999 runway, Chado Ralph Rucci proposed a version with a wide heel, exposed toes, and black sole. Today, brands like Vetements and Maison Margiela put this sexy, sensual shoe back on the radar.
