The Black In Fashion Council presented their seventh seasonal showroom at Spring Studios. Hailing from Ghana, Nigeria, Canada and beyond, this year’s group of 10 emerging designers got to present their collections to press and buyers. Designers who showcased their collections at the showroom int the past have also become CFDA/Vogue finalists, including Rachel Scott of Diotima, who showed last season.
This year’s designers wanted to celebrate their cultures through their clothes. British-Nigerian designer Michelle Adepoju always uses her travels to Africa to inspire her collections. “In Nigeria, beads represent royal gods of protection, and they’re used for different celebratory purposes,” she said. She used beads throughout her collection, including on shoulder straps, and to accessorize fringe trims. Nigerian designer Kanyinsola Onalaja was also inspired by the importance of beads for her collection. Her pieces, which are hand embroidered and made in London, take three to five weeks to complete. This season, she focused on corals and reds, one of the main color beads her tribe in Nigeria uses for their ceremonies. As for jewelry designer Hayet Rida of Khoi, she shoots all her lookbooks in Ghana to support local photographers, stylists, and artists. Her jewelry also comes in at just under $100 for 18K gold-plated brass pieces: stars like Janelle Monáe are also fans.
Others found inspiration elsewhere, including close friends and family. For Ciara Chyanne, her interior designer grandmother, was a big influence on her collections. To always have a piece of her grandmother in her clothes, she uses upholstery fabrics, including blazers, skirts, and jackets. On the other hand, Krystal Phillips of Kaphill wanted to make a brand for her community. Known for her love of color and puff sleeves, she thought about how she could make comfortable clothes for her friends, and this season, she imagined a spring collection that they could wear if she got married in the South of France.
Fumi Egbon of Fumi The Label has no formal training in fashion. Growing up, she would look through magazines and never saw size-inclusive clothes that were also bright and fun, so she started a brand to address that, mainly via knitwear. She might even return to school to learn more about fashion and design to expand her business model. Beatrice Korlekie also makes knitwear, though her Victorian lace-inspired crochet tops come made to order in luxe fabrics.
Meanwhile, designers of Lurelly and Tejahn Burnett want to create well-made clothes and shoes that inspire women alongside their Los Angeles team. Tejahn Burnett also makes footwear and she makes sure to offer a wide range of shoe sizes, from 35 to 43. Her boots even fit wide calves, a rarity in the shoe market.
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