Bleached brows are here to stay. The subversive beauty look has made its way from the runways to the faces of celebrities seeking a statement-making look.
“Bleached brows give a more futuristic effect to the face,” explains makeup artist Diane Kendal, who helped jump-start the trend at the Marc Jacobs fall 2022 runway, erasing brows to offer neutral complexions and hollowed gazes a “gothic element.” The thing is, as alien as they can seem, bleached brows go from runway to real life more easily than you might think—a point proven by the likes of Jenna Ortega, Alex Consani, and Kendall Jenner, who ditched her brows (for one night) at the Met Gala in 2023. Ortega most recently hopped on the bleached-brow train and debuted the lightened look at CinemaCon in April of this year.
With more than 125 million views on TikTok, the #BleachedBrows trend shows no signs of letting up. Here, makeup artists Isamaya Ffrench, William Scott, and Vincent Oquendo walk Vogue through the beauty of bleached brows and how to take the peroxide plunge safely at home.
Key Takeaways
- Bleached brows can change our makeup routines and alter the appearance of our facial structure.
- While you can bleach brows at home, experts recommend seeking a professional to lighten those hairs.
- If bleaching seems like too much of a commitment, try using concealer in a shade lighter than you normally would use on your brows for a similar effect.
Why are bleached brows a trend?
Brows provide a framework to the face—and their absence speaks volumes. “You don’t realize the impact of brows on a face until you’ve gotten rid of them,” says Ffrench. “Eyebrows express a lot of emotions and therefore articulate a lot of personality.” For Ffrench, who often bleaches her own brows, it’s a provocative tool for shapeshifting (her specialty) regardless of where you land on the mellow yellow to arctic white spectrum. “Most of the time when I bleach someone’s brows for the first time, they don’t recognize themselves,” she continues. “It creates a blank canvas, and I think most people like that little thrill of feeling like you can be a different person.”
What are the benefits of bleaching brows?
While bleached brows will make your entire face look different, it’s the appearance of your eyes that is most radically altered. “Our brows give structure to our face by defining the lines of the bones underneath them, and often, bleached brows make one’s eyes look rounder or bigger because we’re allowed to see the full space they take up without the perimeter of a brow,” explains Scott. “This look is a great way to see oneself in a new way because it can reveal aspects of our beauty that we can’t always perceive or emphasize with a full brow, like where one’s eye socket is deepest.”
How do bleached brows change the effect of makeup?
Again, the impact is all down to your gaze. “From a makeup perspective, erasing eyebrows, whether that’s done with concealers or a full bleach process, is a great way to open up the area around the eyes, which allows for much more freedom in terms of makeup possibilities,” explains Ffrench. “There’s no ‘frame’ to take into consideration, so you can do pretty much any shape in any size you want and create something dramatic.” From drawing on entirely new brows (like a Y2K-era razor-thin arch, for example) to extending the shape of a graphic eye design to extreme effect, the possibilities are endless.
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How do you decide between professional vs. at-home brow bleaching?
Nothing beats going to a professional when it comes to an intense treatment like bleaching. A professional will know how to handle such harsh chemicals and advise you on what shade of bleach would look best. For the ultimate insurance while lightening brows, Ffrench recommends going to a professional or asking a friend who’s familiar with the process to do it for you the first time, so that you can observe and ask questions.
But if you’re looking for a more cost-effective option or feel confident enough to do it on your own, there are a couple of things to consider. “These are strong chemicals,” says Oquendo. “If you’re not a professional, please proceed with caution.”
Oquendo recommends products like the Jolen Creme Bleach if you’re new to bleached brows or if you have sensitive skin. “[It] is tried and true,” he says. “It’s going to take you a [long time to bleach brows] because it’s so gentle [and] it really takes a long time to lift, but you’re not going to burn.”
How do you safely bleach brows at home?
Remember: To avoid damage or irritation, a bleaching agent must always be used safely and carefully per the instructions on the container.
Before starting, both Ffrench and Scott recommend reaching for a skin protectant, like Vaseline or Aquaphor, to protect the area around the brows. “After mixing hair bleach powder with cream developer, take a clean mascara wand to coat hairs thoroughly from root to tip, using the leftover cream to cover the brows until you can’t see them anymore,” says Ffrench. “Cover with a little piece of film or aluminum so it doesn’t dry out. It’s normal if this feels warm and tingly, but if you feel like something isn’t right, wipe it off and rinse. Wait for about 10 minutes and check your brows every three minutes after that until the color is completely gone.” To wash out the formula, Scott suggests using shampoo and water to rinse the bleach and stop the chemical reaction.
“Allow your brows to dry completely to judge the color and decide if you want to go over them with bleach again,” says Scott, who recommends waiting at least 20 minutes between sessions. “Don’t do more than two passes of bleach to your brows in one day. If after two passes your brows didn’t lighten enough, the bleach can probably stand to sit on your brows for a bit longer. I usually aim to bring the brow color close to the skin tone as opposed to going fully platinum on everyone, because no nude is universal.” If the hairs have unwanted orange or yellow tones, both pros advise applying a blue or purple toner for a few minutes to remove brassiness.
When you want to dye your brows back to the original color, use a facial hair-dye kit that is one shade lighter than your original brow. “Bleached brows will soak up color quickly and go dark easily,” says Scott. But you may well find that with a dramatic new look and more room to play with your makeup, brow-less is more.
How long do bleached brows last?
Studies show that eyebrow hair is in the growth phase for two to three months, so you may need to touch up color every few weeks. According to Oquendo, this will depend on your natural hair color and how fast your hair grows. “It’s the same idea as how often you get your bangs trimmed or, for me, I get a fade every week because my hair grows really fast,” he says. “So it’s really case by case.”
How do you maintain bleached brows?
Eyebrow care after bleaching is similar to how you would take care of the hair on your scalp. Oquendo recommends using the Clairol Shimmer Lights Purple Conditioner or Keracolor Cleanditioner For Platinum Blondes to tone your new shade and take out any brassiness.
Are there any risks associated with bleaching brows?
Bleach is a harsh chemical and can cause irritation if you have sensitive skin or burns if you do it incorrectly. And just like you would approach bleaching the hair on your head, you d want to stay away from the bleach if you have cuts, sunburns, or certain skin conditions near the brow area. Oquendo stresses the importance of doing your research and taking your time if you’re bleaching your brows at home. “These are strong chemicals; take it seriously [and] take your time,” he says. “If you’re in doubt, if something feels funny, itchy, or burning, take it seriously [and] get it off of you.”
Are there any alternative methods to bleaching eyebrows?
If you’re unsure about committing to such a bold look and wondering how to lighten eyebrows without bleach, Oquendo says you can fake it; just grab a medium to full coverage concealer. “This is a great alternative,” he says.
To do this, he says you’ll want to take an alcohol pad to remove any excess moisture or oil from the hairs. Then once you pat dry it down all the way, you’ll grab a concealer (he likes the Maybelline Superstay Concealer). “[The concealer] is going to be your lighter shade,” he says. “And think of something longwearing and maybe water-resistant.”
To put product into the hairs and “color” them, he says to apply the concealer with a clean mascara spoolie until you get the desired effect. After setting with a brow gel, you’re all set. He goes on to say that this is also a good way to test whether you like the bleached look on you before you book an appointment. It’s also a good way to test how your makeup looks with bleached brows. If it’s a change you like, you’ll be more comfortable.
Meet the Experts
- Diane Kendal, celebrity makeup artist
- Isamaya Ffrench, celebrity makeup artist and founder of ISAMAYA
- William Scott, celebrity makeup artist
- Vincent Oquendo, celebrity makeup artist and host of “Backseat Beauties”
Have a beauty or wellness trend you’re curious about? We want to know! Send Vogue’s senior beauty and wellness editor an email at beauty@vogue.com.