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Welcome to the second iteration of Vogue’s global spa guide, an index of the 100 best spas in the world, built from the expertise of our global editors and trusted contributors. There is a lot to choose from in the world of wellness, and no matter how far you’re planning to travel—from a subway ride to a trans-Atlantic flight—we want to make sure it’s worth the journey. Whatever your path, let us be your guide.
Why go here?
You’re less than an hour outside San Diego, but wake up at Cal-a-Vie and wonder whether you’ve been teleported to the French countryside. A meticulously constructed château-style estate (so meticulous, in fact, that several buildings were disassembled in France and rebuilt here), the retreat is made up of 32 private villas and expansive manicured grounds. There are punishing health spas with their detoxes and self-flagellation, and then there’s Cal-a-Vie, where—in between interval training sessions and trapeze yoga classes—I am offered a salted caramel smoothie.
How to sum up the appeal of Cal-a-Vie? Perhaps it’s sufficient to report that it’s one of Oprah’s favorite spas. But I’ll go on: The food is delicious and healthful but mercifully prepared without finger-wagging deprivation. There is real bread, real milk, an endless tap of caffeine, and dessert. I order room service cookies, which I snack on between a lunch of roasted salmon and a dinner of halibut with farro. Mid-morning, a daily “nutrition break” features a savory tomato tea that I come to find oddly addictive. There are two pools, a hair salon, a nail salon, spare, beautiful treatment rooms, a cold plunge, pickleball courts, tennis courts, and a greenhouse. There is an orange grove. Schedules are personalized, depending on fitness goals and proclivities. So are treatments, which happen in the afternoon as a reward for all the exercise. I get two massages, a facial, and “scalp revitalization” in three days. When I order off-menu guacamole at lunch, I am told it will be a few minutes. The chips to be made from scratch, of course.
What’s the vibe?
Luxury summer camp, with an endless supply of perfectly ripe fruit available upon request. Activities abound (there are over 120 fitness classes), but there is no coercion. I skip Pilates when I decide that true wellness involves another 45 minutes of reclining poolside. Ease, comfort, and beauty are prized in equal measure here. The scent of jasmine wafts through the air, and linens are crisp and clean, but no one gets dressed up for dinner. There is no request that the staff here will not at least endeavor to fulfill. Feeling peckish after a meal, I get freshly popped popcorn delivered to my room.
The history?
Cal-a-Vie opened decades ago, but its current owners, Terri and John Havens, visited in 1998 and acquired it in 2000. When I visited, most of the other guests were repeat customers, and one in particular had gotten an orange tree planted in her honor on-site—a distinction she told me was reserved for those who’ve spent more than 70 nights at the spa. The Havens have since expanded Cal-a-Vie, building out additional amenities, opening a meditation center, and reinvesting in the grounds.
What should you try?
La Petite Package is Cal-a-Vie’s three-day experience, and it’s an ideal introduction to the spa’s delights. It includes all the fitness and wellness activities a single person can handle, plus two 50-minute massages, a facial, and two additional treatments. Even the standard massage is special, but upgrade options abound. The Illuminating Body Peel and the Vichy Body Scrub both leave skin polished to high shine. Not until I got a scalp massage did I realize that a scalp massage was the precise treatment I’d been missing in this life. Before each treatment commenced, a staffer whisked my fluffy robe away to be heated while I was kneaded and scoured.
Glutton for relaxation that I am, the treatments were my focus. But I dabbled in designated stretch-and-sculpt classes and was genuinely awed by a trip to Cal-a-Vie’s sophisticated observatory for nighttime stargazing. Also, all meals and snacks are included, so go ahead and ask for extra raspberries at breakfast.
How environmentally friendly is it?
A reusable metal water bottle greets you in your suite; at meals, the kitchen emphasizes sustainable and local produce.
What else do we need to know?
At breakfast each morning, you’ll be handed a full schedule, stacked with activities and programs selected with your preferences in mind. It’s all optional. Don’t feel obligated to go to anything except your spa appointments, although I personally opted to make it to every single snack time. Meals are communal, but introverts can always order meals to their room for a social reprieve.
And if you’ve forgotten anything at home, a shockingly well-stocked boutique supplies bathing suits, dresses, workout gear, sneakers, and more, plus Cal-a-Vie merch to remember paradise by.
Who can go?
The amenities and treatments at Cal-a-Vie are just for guests staying at the resort.
Booking details for Cal-a-Vie Spa
Address: 29402 Spa Havens Way, Vista, CA 92084
Read more from Vogue’s Global Spa Guide.