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Runways often offer a microcosmic look at the greater picture—a visual representation of the current collective experience. This season, that story was told through skin, which fell into the same contrary camps in which we all find ourselves these days. Natural complexions, either touched in minimal makeup or in none at all for maximum humanness, were positioned against our shared shadow selves, skin so luminous it seemed to be the work of an IRL filter or an A.I. interpretation. The juxtaposition began in New York with two equally appealing extremes. First, at Willy Chavarria, makeup artist Marco Castro eschewed all forms of coverage in pursuit of “real skin.” (His point was further punctuated by adding back in faux dark circles beneath the eyes, a commentary on the downsides of too much technology.) Meanwhile, the skin at Dion Lee was near phosphorescent, the silvery sheen something akin to an ethereal angel or a straight-up cyborg.
Call it the filtered effect: Whether you’re experiencing social fatigue or a ceaseless (and perhaps inspiring) call to preternatural perfection, social media is affecting the way we view, and do, makeup. In some ways, the comparison is simple. “Filters and beauty filters are digital tools that use artificial intelligence that can modify facial proportions and skin texture creating a flawless skin; in makeup, we have the same tools to create and modify skin texture and shapes with light and shadows,” says makeup artist Alexa Rodulfo. But with so many of us constantly viewing our own faces through the filter of filters, it can be difficult to remember that makeup can only do so much.
“Clients will often show me inspiration pictures when we are creating a look together and often their selection will include those with (to my trained eye) clearly filtered images—but to those outside of the industry or even those not so familiar with social media, these filters can be very realistic and not at all obvious,” says makeup artist Hannah Martin, creator of Kate Middleton’s iconic bridal look. “This can be tricky to explain as a makeup artist, as some might assume it’s possible to achieve a completely flawless base with makeup alone.”
Martin notes that fashion world’s pursuit of a supernaturally immaculate finish seems to come down to a “excellent skincare, and the subsequent glow achieved and delicately placed, light layers of makeup.” For Tayaba Jafri, global beauty director at Laura Mercier, it’s all about the actual products. “Where we see it is in new formulations, like super liquid highlighters that look natural enough in texture and are very wearable during the day, but then also show max reflectivity to get hyper-luminous skin in certain lighting.” That sort of strategy (and formula) helped inform the Mercier look at Altuzarra, achieved with the brand’s RoseGlow Highlighting Powder.
Currently, filters seem to furthering an existing desire for a literal glow-up. “There is new play on the natural look, with the glowy skin that leans to a hyper-realness from a different direction, which is a breath of fresh air,” says makeup artist Meredith Baraf, who cites brands like Gucci Westman and its minimalist highlighters along with Hailey Bieber’s general influence (glazed donut skin, anyone?).
If our pursuit of an impossible luminosity leads to better skincare routines, more innovative products, and swipes of highlighter that leave faces drenched in shimmer, then who knows? As long as perfection isn’t the goal, then perhaps, for the moment, it’s all upside. “I think the filters initially sparked the conversation: what is real looking skin?” says Jafri. “#NoFilter was and still is a thing, and I appreciate that it inspired people to seek education on how to make their skin look flawless, but real.”
