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Since its beginnings, Chanel has always had a love affair with jewelry. It’s little wonder–Gabrielle Chanel knew the power of an accessory early on. After all, she started with hats. Born in Saumur, France on August 19th 1883, she opened her millinery boutique at 21 rue Cambon under the name Chanel Modes in 1910. It was a favorite of French actresses and tastemakers of the time. By 1913, she began selling her line of clothing made of jersey (a material previously reserved for men’s underwear) at her first boutique in Deauville. By the 1920s, the forward-thinking designer had already debuted a slew of fragrances and dipped her toes into jewelry.
Statement jewelry has always been a key part of the Chanel look: Gabrielle Chanel started making high-quality costume jewelry in the 1920s and was adamant about mixing it with her fine solid gold and semi-precious gemstones–a concept that was extremely radical at the time. She was inspired by her own collection and historical references from all different corners of the world–Mughal to Medieval. Gabrielle Chanel created iconic jewelry ranging from oversized pearls, colorful Byzantine crosses, and gilded creations by collaborators Gripoix, Goossens, and even Duke Fulco di Verdura in the 1930s. Early photos of the designer show her wrapped in excessive pearls and multiple statement cuffs.
Chanel’s fine jewelry story also begins nearly a century ago, in 1932, when the house presented its first high jewelry collection called Bijoux de Diamants: 45 pieces were shown, including a stunning diamond-studded “Comète” necklace shaped like a comet that delicately wrapped around the neck. For decades, the brand was defined by groundbreaking jewelry designs that still remain extremely collectible today.
In 1983 Karl Lagerfeld was appointed as Chanel’s creative director, ushering in a new era of exciting jewelry at the house, with a focus on logomania. The 1990s represented a new push into the category: In 1993, Chanel formally created its fine jewelry department by recreating the aforementioned “Comète” necklace first introduced in 1932. In 1997, Chanel opened its first maison jewelry dedicated entirely to fine jewelry at 18 place Vendôme in Paris.
By 2009, Chanel opened its first Fine Jewelry Creation Studio under the direction of Patrice Leguéreau. A few years later, 2013 marked the opening of the Watches Creation Studio under the direction of Arnaud Chastaingt. From 2019 to 2024, artistic director Virginie Viard put her own stamp on the jewelry coming out of the house.
Today, Chanel’s fine jewelry collections are covetable, instant celeb favorites, with Gracie Abrams sporting the Coco Crush ring recently and Sarah Paulson wearing the earrings from the same collection to the 2025 Academy Women’s Luncheon. There’s no denying the revival of the cocktail watch, which is also leading to Chanel’s Première gaining traction alongside its steady stable of collectors. With newly named artistic director Matthieu Blazy, who has a knack for spotlighting intricate craft, Chanel’s jewelry is bound to evolve, too. Here, a guide to shopping the best Chanel fine jewelry.
Première Watches
In 1987, Chanel created its first and most iconic watch for the house: the Première Original Edition Watch. This piece mixes iconography from the storied fashion label. The octagonal case is emblematic of the stopper of the N°5 fragrance bottle (and the same shape of Place Vendôme in Paris), while the leather bracelet is synonymous with the famed quilted bag fashion lovers recognize anywhere. The dial contains no numerals, only hands and of course, the Chanel logo. The Première has been endlessly reinterpreted with limited edition styles debuting each season, including mini versions rendered in diamonds and pearls, or in lipstick-toned pink and lush blush shades, shaped like a cuff. The Première Ribbon Watch contains a slim steel case set with diamonds and black lacquer.
Coco Crush
Inspired by the iconic quilting of the iconic 2.55 bag first introduced by Chanel in 1955, Coco Crush is the label’s fine jewelry collection full of chicly woven motifs. Think: blingy rings, earrings, bangles, and delicate necklaces all covered in pretty contours that reinterpret the symmetry of the double C logo in a low-key way. The Coco Crush collection debuted in 2015. Most pieces–like the pretty Coco Crush ring–are available in either 18K yellow or 18K white gold. Coco Crush jewelry is designed to fit in with your pre-existing jewelry collection–meant to stack endlessly with heirlooms and new treasures alike.
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Camélia
Just like its name implies, the Chanel Camélia jewelry collection takes inspiration from the signature flower emblem that’s been used by the house since its early beginnings. Chanel was using the motif in clothing as early as the 1910s and 1920s, and by the 1930s, costume jewelry versions of the famed flower came to life with the help of the artisan glass jewelry company Gripoix. The Camélia collection, officially launched in 2018, takes that same bloom shape and renders it in 18K gold across magnificent diamond-set crawler earrings, delicate necklaces, and intricate bracelets. The goldsmithing work is influenced by the look of lace and other Chanel-centric fabrics.
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Comète Ruban
Ready to take your love of Chanel jewelry to the highest level? The Ruban and Comète lines fall into the label’s high jewelry categories, aligning with the craftsmanship and fine materials of the highest quality; like haute couture fashion. Both Ruban and Comète have one thing in common: endless diamonds. Comète, introduced in 2022, is based on Gabrielle Chanel’s 1932 first and only high jewelry collection, called Bijoux de Diamants. Art Deco inspired star-shaped pave rings, earrings and necklaces shimmer, with the occasional pearl popping in here or there. “I wanted to cover women in constellations,” was what she once said of the collection. Ruban, first introduced in 2015, is influenced by the brand’s love of the ribbon (its name borrows from the French word for “ribbon”)–taking the motif and reimagining it as diamond-covered rings, bow-shaped necklaces, and elegant, heirloom-like brooches.
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Chance de Chanel
Think of the Chance de Chanel collection as the label’s take on lucky talismanic jewelry, inspired by the current collectible charm necklace culture. The lineup consists of reversible medals as a symbol of good luck charms. Think: An 18K yellow gold pendant flanked with black jade and embellished with the camélia, lion, N°5, and star. Other pendants contain wheat and comet motifs–all significant historic codes for the brand. This collection is one of the newest additions to Chanel fine jewelry, introduced in fall 2025.
J12 Watch
Chanel launched a chunkier, more contemporary watch dubbed the J12 in 1999. This style features self-winding movements produced by the Swiss Manufacture Kenissi, co-owned by Chanel. Choose from black or white ceramic with a weightless, bold, sporty look that is distinctly unisex. Or, opt for one of the always present newly launched limited edition options, such as a blush pink or a deep, luscious matte blue.
