What better city for cinephiles than Paris? Filmmaking and the French capital are inextricably intertwined: It’s where cinema was born, of course, when les frères Lumières first screened their short films in 1895; where New Wave filmmakers Truffaut, Godard, and Varda ushered in a new era of auteur movie making; the home of the César awards and the economic hub of the industry. But more than that, cinema culture is Paris culture, as it seems every Parisian has a more-than-just-passing interest in film. Every week, some 700 films are shown, among them not only new releases but also independent cinemas (there’s over 30 of them spread across the city) regularly screening vintage, classic, and cult-favorite films; not to mention the plethora of special programming throughout the year, including festivals, anniversary screenings, and retrospectives.
While the industry heads south to Cannes this May, there’s still much to see and do in the capital city—one could plan an entire week in Paris dedicated to film and still not scratch the surface. But consider this guide a starting point, filled with the cinema world’s hotspots and insider favorites for the film-obsessed, from storied theaters and auteur-favored cafés to immersive hotel stays and comprehensive archives.
Where to Stay
For cinematic stays that feel as though they’ve been lifted from a film still, considering checking into the lushly romantic Nouvelle Vague-inspired Hôtel Amour, the Belle Époque beauty Maison Proust, or the opulent, surrealist Hôtel Particulier tucked away in Montmartre. Serious Cinephiles may want to settle in at Hotel Paradiso, a film-lover’s haven founded by the French independent cinema group Mk2, that offers an in-room screening experience from the bed or the tub complete with laser projectors, 10-foot-wide screens, and a state-of-the-art sound system, in addition to a curated library of over 10,000 films (for a more elevated experience, their two cinema suites allow for screening films currently in theaters).
And at the Hotel Dadou, relax in their Nouvelle Vague spa and watch short films by French new wave auteurs in their private Roman bath, while private screening rooms at Le Royal Monceau and the Hotel Nuage allow you to watch movies in style.
Where to Eat and Drink
In Paris, taking in a film is only half the fun: many theaters have cafes or restaurants to linger in after a screening and ponder what you’ve just seen, including the Catherine Deneuve-designed Salon hidden away above the Panthéon du Cinéma in the Latin Quarter, the leafy terrace or the café at Le Studio 28 in Montmartre, the sundrenched greenhouse at L Entrepôt, and the rooftop of the neo-Egyptian Le Louxor.
Or make a reservation at the industry’s favorite hangouts where agents, filmmakers, and stars mingle to discuss their next projects over oysters and Pouilly-Fuissé, like the leafy open-air rooftop restaurant La Plume atop the Hotel Madame Reve, La Société in Saint Germain for a more discrete alternative to La Flore from the team behind Hotel Costes, poolside at the legendary Molitor club, or Le Square Trousseau, a chic neighborhood brasserie that flies under the radar but is frequented by those in the know. For the see-and-be-seen crowd, the tony Fouquet’s on the Champs-Élysées plays host to the legendary annual gala following the César Awards ceremony (the French counterpart to the Oscars), while lower key hangouts include La Chope des Artistes, an old-school bistro favored by the scene; Cafe Charlot, a Marais stalwart beloved by off duty actresses; or Le Mansart, a Pigalle watering hole for rolled tobacco and natural wine.
Where to See a Film
Seeing film in Paris isn’t limited to what’s new—in fact, cinephiles should take advantage of the city’s abundance of art house theaters that regularly screen classics, cult favorites, and other vintage films alongside new releases. Many independent theaters’ programming is themed around retrospectives dedicated to filmmakers, genres, movements, eras, various cultures or regions, actors, or simply what the theater wants to show; do note that most theaters will screen in the film’s original version with French subtitles (look for VOSTFR), but for those qui parlent pas Français, groups like Lost in Frenchlation organize screenings with English subtitles.
Everyone has their favorite arthouse haunts, be it the Art Deco darling Le Balzac, built to resemble an ocean liner; Le Champo, also known as l’Espace Jacques-Tati with its New Wave ties and ceiling dotted with twinkling stars; or Le Christine Cinema Club, owned by Isabelle Huppert’s husband, the producer Ronald Chammah. Serious cinephiles also head to the single-screen Max Linder for premieres and exceptional programming. Elsewhere, he coterie of independent screens in the Latin Quarter are mythic, and just last year the Jeu de Paume gave over its auditorium to begin programming a selection of arthouse classics.
Legendary, more classic theaters worth a visit include the Mk2 Bibliothéque, which is perfect for date night with their loveseats designed for two; the mythical Grand Rex, which offers behind-the-scenes tours and hosts blockbuster premiers and special screenings (they recently were one of the few cinemas to show Oppenheimer on 70mm, using the projector for the first time since 1989); while the newer Pathé palace designed by Renzo Piano offers a suite of luxury amenities, including a concierge service, heatable, reclining plush leather seats, and an Art Deco bar designed by Jacques Grange.
What to Do
And if you’re not taking in a film, there’s more to do still, whether dancing the night away at the David Lynch-designed night club Silencio, taking a tour behind the scenes of Le Grand Rex, or browsing the stacks at JM Club in the 11ème, one of the last surviving video rental shops and cinema hangouts that’s developed a cult following and is home to the Konbini Club, where actors and directors including Ben Stiller, Pedro Almodovar, and Jodie Foster pick out and discuss their favorite films (consider it the French counterpart to the Criterion Closet). For a treasure trove of vintage posters, head to Librarie Elba, Intemperol, Orsay, or Potemkine, a café and boutique near the canal Saint Martin filled with DVDs, Blu-rays, books, vinyls, and all things cinema. Or book a walking tour with Juliette Dubois of Ciné-Balade, whose visits traverse Paris to bring the silver screen to life with guided walks chronicling Amélie Poulain’s Montmartre, Jean-Luc Godard’s New Wave life near the Sorbonne, or following in the footsteps of Woody Allen’s Midnight in Paris.
And while there’s no official museum dedicated to film just yet (though one is said to be in the works), the Cinémathèque française offers a comprehensive look at the history of cinema with its vast collection of costumes, props, accessories, cameras, equipment, posters, promotional material, and more. The Frank Gehry-designed space is dedicated to the preservation, study, and exhibition of cinema, and home to the world’s largest archive of film documents and objects, whose library of films was created by a group of archivists during World War II to save them from destruction. The Cinémathèque also regularly programs exhibitions; currently on view through the summer is a show dedicated to Wes Anderson and his body of work, including props, sets, models, costumes, and more. Elsewhere in Paris at the Musée Carnavalet, a show titled Agnes Varda’s Paris, from here to there, which runs through August, examines the dialogue between the filmmaker-screenwriter and the city of Paris, particularly as it relates to her photography work.