Cop28, the annual United Nations Climate Change conference taking place in Dubai over the past fortnight, looks set to be a disappointment – with a crucial commitment to phase out fossil fuels likely to be written out of the final global agreement.
However, there was a strong fashion presence at this year’s event, with Stella McCartney bringing her “Stella’s Sustainable Market” installation, showcasing new material innovations, to the United Arab Emirates. “I went to Cop28 to represent the fashion industry, one of the most harmful on the planet,” she tells Vogue. “Being able to give our innovation partners a platform feels incredibly rewarding as it’s allowed them to make some invaluable connections with global stakeholders and investors that they probably wouldn’t have gotten the chance to meet. To me, that represents why we are here: to showcase and support these next-gen solutions, and illustrate their limitless possibilities for bettering our shared future.”
Still, it’s clear that not enough action is being taken in the fashion industry, with many brands not on track to meet their climate commitments. “So many fashion companies have voluntarily set Science Based Targets – meaning they have committed to reducing their climate emissions in line with the Paris Agreement,” Maxine Bédat, founder of the New Standard Institute, says. “Now is the time to have clarity on which brands have done that for greenwashing and which brands are true leaders and are actually prepared to do the work to get there. From what I saw at Cop28, there is simply not enough progress being made when it comes to climate action.”
Below, see six key fashion takeaways from Cop28.
Brands still aren’t cutting emissions quickly enough
Although 130 brands pledged to cut their greenhouse gas emissions as part of the UN Fashion Industry Charter for Climate Action five years ago, a new report by non-profit Stand.Earth found that the majority aren’t currently on track to meet their targets.
Out of the 14 major fashion brands looked at (all of whom are UN Fashion Charter signatories), nine reported an overall decline in greenhouse emissions between 2018/2019 and 2022. However, according to the study, only four of the brands – Levi’s, Kering, Ralph Lauren and Gap – will reduce emissions enough by 2030 to be in line with keeping global warming below 1.5 degrees Celsius, based on their current trajectory. Meanwhile, manufacturing emissions – where a large part of the work needs to be done – are still increasing at 10 of the brands analyzed.
Major players invest in renewable energy
In order for the fashion industry to meet its climate targets, there needs to be a transition away from fossil fuels in the supply chain – but this is hard for brands to do alone. That’s why the Global Fashion Agenda has announced a $100 million off-shore wind project to help decarbonize garment manufacturing in Bangladesh, with H&M Group and Bestseller, the parent company of brands including Vero Moda and Only, being the first brands to commit.
We Wear Oil campaign highlights fossil-fuel based clothing
A powerful campaign launched by climate activist Sophia Kianni, in partnership with the Fossil Fuel Fashion campaign and Vogue Arabia, highlights that the majority of our clothes are still made from fossil fuel-derived synthetics like polyester, acrylic and elastane. Entitled “We Wear Oil”, the images show Kianni covered in an oil-like substance, created using food-grade elements and dye. The campaign was particularly timely given that a new report by Textile Exchange, also launched during Cop28, found that the production of virgin fossil-based synthetic fibers rose from 63 million tonnes to 67 million tonnes in 2022, while polyester makes up 54 per cent of all fibers produced.
Stella McCartney showcases new innovations
After putting on a Future of Fashion installation at Cop26 in Glasgow, Stella McCartney highlighted her favorite material innovators once again at Cop28, in an exhibit backed by LVMH, with Radiant Matter’s bio-based sequins, Keel Labs’s seaweed-based fibre, Kelsun, and Natural Fiber Welding’s plastic-free leather alternative, Mirum, all on show.
During the conference, the brand also announced collaborations with AirCarbon, a carbon-negative alternative to leather, and Mango Material, which creates biodegradable alternatives to plastic, as well as unveiling its first coat made from Savian, a plant-based faux fur made from a mixture of cellulose, hemp cellulose and linen.
Campaign groups demand more transparency
Lack of transparency from brands makes it difficult to track how the fashion industry is doing against its climate goals, which is why organizations including Fashion Revolution, Stand.Earth and Action Speaks Louder, have set out a series of clear demands for major companies. They include outlining how and where their clothes were made, how many were produced and their environmental impacts; setting targets, disclosing how they established them and reporting on progress; and sharing how they plan to meet those targets.
Legislation remains crucial
It’s clear that legislation remains the most powerful tool when it comes to accelerating change across the fashion industry – as shown by the European Union’s approval of new eco-design legislation, which coincided with Cop28. While the details still need to be ironed out, it will see a ban on destruction of unsold textiles and footwear products, as well as other requirements designed to improve the circularity of products.
Bédat urged more brands to back The Fashion Act, a proposed bill that would require brands doing business in New York with an annual global revenue of $100million or more to make certain disclosures and set Science-Based Targets. Meanwhile, Ganni founder Nicolaj Reffstrup reiterated the need for government policy during a panel discussion: “We at Ganni welcome any type of policies or regulations. Ideally also sort of financial incentives. Anything that will help level the playing field and incentivize more people to invest in the green transition.”