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Dior creative director Maria Grazia Chiuri had a clear brief for the beauty that walked today’s runway: Witchy was the inspiration for the black wine-stained lips, designed to stun, not to scare. “It has a gothic part of it, a bit punkish but a bit girlish also,” Peter Philips told Vogue backstage as models were encouraged to sip through straws and eat tiny sandwiches whole to keep the tricky look from wiping away with every bit. The look developed “according to what Maria wanted to say about women being seen as witches in a male-dominated world,” Philips said of working with Chiuri in the weeks prior while they reviewed sketches of the collection.
The creative and image director of Christian Dior makeup said he incorporated “raw” elements that he deliberately skipped at the house’s couture show a few months ago. Now, “very luminous, glowy skin and a witchy lip” started with Dior Forever Glow Veil Makeup Primer and zero contouring to create a “blank canvas” for the unexpected. It was an inky eyeliner pencil, Diorshow On Stage Crayon in 099 Black, that Philips used to create the ombre effect, applied to upper lips “kind of rough” before quickly blending and fading the color with a Q-tip “so it kind of bleeds out a bit.” But it isn’t meant to look like blood or Halloween or a horror movie. Instead, he softened the edge with Rouge Dior Forever shades chosen to match models’ individual complexions for “a fine balance.”
Hairstylist Guido Palau agreed that this time Chiuri’s vision was clear. “She’s quite a strong woman,” he said of the inspiration for “unfussy” French twists he created by raking Tigi Bed Head Queen for a Day Thickening Spray and L’Oréal Professional Paris Full Volume Extra Mousse through lengths for a texture that’s neither wet nor dry but “looks like there’s something in it.” The ends are poking out, and they might have just woken up like this. “They’re very kind of minimal, aren’t they?” Palau mused. “You’re just going for it and twisting it around, twisting up, and just like that.”
He wondered if girls even need to spend that much time on an updo—when the makeup is right, there’s space for disheveled hair. “I mean, I think beauty is—even if you spend hours, you kind of want it to look easy.”
