“The new word is inclusive, and not in the woke way,” said an eager Edison Chen, the Hong Kong actor, rapper, and fashion designer, as he walked through the lineup of his 20th anniversary show for CLOT, which took place on Friday at Shanghai’s C-Park. “In the past we were exclusive: ‘you can’t buy this,’ ‘you can’t see us,’” explained the multi-hyphenate. “A lot of young designers and publications wanted to work with us, but we were all about how we only fucked with some guys and not everyone.”
Fashion has changed, and the hype and insularity that once propped up brands like CLOT has been replaced by a pop culture-level curiosity for the industry, its players, and its inner workings. This much Chen is aware of, and rather than staying in the past he wants to move CLOT forward, as he said backstage a few hours before his show.
Chen founded CLOT two decades ago as his career in film and music were taking off and has since teamed up with everyone from Nike to Supreme—the latter of which CLOT has been compared to. Adidas is his latest partner; adidas Originals by Edison Chen features a relaxed interpretation of sportswear classics in loose crochet separates, loungy pajama-like sets, and even tailoring, plus some cool re-interpretations of your favorite sneakers. The partnership, said Chen, introduces a new chapter for CLOT, one that is “less street and more chic,” and will usher his Hong Kong-based label into the future by expanding its aesthetic.
The blowout 80-look show was designed to expand CLOT’s presence as a cultural force. “Twenty years is a long time, it’s almost like having a kid,” joked Chen, “but I’ve been reflecting, and I think that CLOT can be like an older brother and support the next generation of Chinese designers. We have a great platform so we want to use it to shine on other people.” His new approach is not dissimilar to that of Pharrell Williams, who leveraged his pop culture stardom to develop a successful fashion career and incubate emerging talent in the Black community along the way. Virgil Abloh also comes to mind, his knack for collaborations becoming the driving force behind the omnipresence of his fashion in pop culture.
Chen’s decision to weave the country’s fashion community into the fabric of CLOT comes at a time when Chinese fashion is opening itself up to the world and, in return, garnering global attention. Young labels like Louis Shengato Chen and 8on8 have been shortlisted for the LVMH and Amiri Prizes; brands like Mark Gong are getting editorial credits in western magazines and being worn by buzzy celebrities; and names like Shushu/Tong are becoming viral sensations.
“This isn’t a traditional show,” Chen declared. “It’s more of a smorgasbord of Chinese youth culture and Chinese creatives gathered in one place.” He invited Caroline Hu, Pronounce, Staffonly, and Sankuanz to create looks inspired by the CLOT aesthetic, and unveiled collaborations with Sacai, Lu’u Dan, The North Face, and Alyx, and Tommy Hilfigher. Humberto Leon, the former Kenzo and Opening Ceremony designer, was brought in to consult on CLOT’s ready-to-wear lineup. “He gave us a more sleek look,” was Chen’s verdict.
“It was interesting being inclusive this time and speaking to them,” said Chen of his work with the young Chinese designers. “This [show] is an exclamation mark about 20 years and what we’ve done, but for the next 20 we want it to be about all of us. It’s about holding everyone in.”
