Emerald cut engagement rings are usually considered one of the most elegant of diamond shapes. After all, it is the stone on Grace Kelly’s engagement ring given to her by Prince Rainier of Monaco. While emerald cuts absolutely shine, the rectangular stone doesn’t have the same brilliant sparkle as other diamonds of a similar shape, like a cushion or radiant cut. The emerald cut’s subtlety is its strength. This not-so-flashy stone is the perfect quiet luxury choice for a minimalist that still wants a beautiful diamond.
“People who choose this shape usually want something sophisticated without shouting,” explains Akshie Jhaveri, founder of jewelry brand Grown Brilliance. “It’s confidence in the most refined form.”
To get all the expert insights on emerald cut engagement rings, we turned to Tom Moses, GIA’s EVP and chief laboratory and research officer who has evaluated some of the most prominent gems in the world from the Hope Diamond to Elizabeth Taylor’s engagement ring from Richard Burton. Ahead, we break down everything from how this diamond style is graded to popular settings for the stone.
What Is an Emerald Cut Diamond?
An emerald cut has a few characteristics that clearly define its style. “An emerald cut diamond is a rectangular stone with beveled corners and long, linear step-cut facets that create the signature ‘hall of mirrors’ effect—a series of elegant, elongated flashes rather than intense sparkle,” explains Tom Moses. “Originally developed for emeralds, the cutting style was later adopted for diamonds because it highlights clarity, symmetry, and luster.”
What Makes Emerald Cuts Special
So what makes this diamond cut the engagement ring center stone of choice for celebrities like Beyoncé and Amal Clooney? “Its beauty comes from restraint,” notes Moses. “The emerald cut’s broad table and geometric facets reveal the diamond’s pure internal character, giving it a sleek, architectural look associated with Art Deco elegance. Because it emphasizes clarity over brilliance, the stone delivers a confident, modern glamour and visually elongates the hand.”
“Emerald cut diamonds have a long history of being the chosen cutting style for many large and important diamonds, such as the Jonker diamond,” adds Moses. “It was named after the South African man who found the diamond in the famed Premier Mine in South Africa. Many say it was one of the most perfectly polished diamonds in the world.”
How to Evaluate Emerald Cuts for the 4Cs
An emerald cut is evaluated by the standard GIA grading scale known as the 4Cs. “Emerald cut diamonds are evaluated in the same way as any D-to-Z color diamond—using the GIA-developed system for color and clarity, a precise measurement for carat weight, and expert observation for the polish and symmetry of the stone,” says Moses. It is important to note that cut isn’t a factor in grading for emerald diamonds. A stone’s value is determined by these grades, with higher clarity, color, and size often leading to a higher cost.
An element that’s unique about the step-cut stone is its reflective nature. Any inclusions within the diamond are magnified even further thanks to its hall of mirrors effect. It’s important to find an emerald cut engagement ring with higher clarity to avoid these being too apparent. Higher clarity often comes with a higher price tag when purchasing a ring—which adds to the allure and exclusivity of this stone.
“Color is another quality that requires special attention,” says Moses. “An emerald cut diamond’s distinctive cut produces less scintillation, or sparkle, than other diamond cuts. This makes the diamond’s color more prominent.”
How to Choose Style and Setting
Finding the right emerald cut engagement ring for you or your partner all comes down to personal style. While you can pair an emerald with a flashy setting, Jhaveri notes, “It’s a shape that thrives in minimal, sculptural settings.” She continues, “I love it in a clean solitaire—it lets the stone speak. East-west settings are great when someone wants a modern twist. A three-stone with tapered baguettes gives that timeless, graceful feel. And hidden halos add a soft radiance without interrupting the lines.”
It’s also a good idea to think about how you might pair the engagement ring with a wedding band in the future. If you want a touch more shine to your hand, you may want to consider pairing a clean solitaire.
Other Tips and Considerations
Since you’ll likely wear your engagement ring for many years, it’s important to find the right emerald cut diamond for you. Selecting the perfect size of your emerald stone can be determined by your hand size. Longer, wider fingers likely look best with a larger diamond that can take up some real estate, while petite hands could feel overwhelmed by a busy ring stack.
The proportions of your stone can also make a difference in how it appears. “This cutting style can have a range of proportions that result in elegant looks. They are easily identified by a rectangular shape with beveled corners and concentric rows of facets—on both crown and pavilion,” says Moses. These rectangles can be shorter or more elongated based on the length to width ratios. That s why it s helpful to try the stone on your finger before purchasing to determine the spread.
You also may consider whether or not you want to lean into current trends. While east-west emerald cut stones are quite popular at the moment, it is not historically as common a setting. Another big trend right now is the shift towards lab-grown diamonds. These stones often come in larger sizes and higher clarity, since they are manufactured. The big perk of a lab-grown ring is the lower price point, making it easier to get the diamond size you want. However, they aren’t as rare or come with as high of a value as mined diamonds. Determining whether to go lab or mined often comes down to preference and budget.
Our Favorite Emerald Cut Ring
When it comes down to modern emerald cut engagement rings, Amal Clooney’s rock is a favorite. The seven-carat diamond is framed with two tapered baguettes on a platinum band—an elegant setting that mirrors the style of Grace Kelly’s own ring. One of the best parts of this particular stone? With Clooney’s human-rights background, she made sure that the stunning diamond was ethically sourced.
