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Welcome to the second iteration of Vogue’s global spa guide, an index of the 100 best spas in the world, built from the expertise of our global editors and trusted contributors. There is a lot to choose from in the world of wellness, and no matter how far you’re planning to travel—from a subway ride to a trans-Atlantic flight—we want to make sure it’s worth the journey. Whatever your path, let us be your guide.
Why go here?
Full disclosure: Esalen is not a spa. Esalen is a holistic retreat center and educational institute, a place where you go to heal, expand, or inspire your thinking. (They describe themselves as an “incubator of human potential.”) Nor can you simply drop in: You must sign up for one of their specific multiday workshops.
But this doesn’t mean the experience is predetermined. There’s an incredible array of options: Sign up for a yoga retreat or one on holotropic breath work, or a program that focuses on leadership or creativity. One of Esalen’s most famous offerings is Gestalt, a form an awareness practice which focuses on personal responsibility and staying in the present, as well as the exploration of emotions through role-playing, painting, and physical experiences. Esalen is the most famous center for Gestalt in the world—and, in fact, pioneered it in the 1960s.
Want to visualize it? Watch Mad Men’s famous finale, where Don Draper visits a fictionalized center based off the real-life Esalen.
What’s the vibe?
Esalen is located on a remote, rugged stretch of the Big Sur coastline, about an hour from the nearest town of Monterey and Carmel. The campus is both moody and spectacular: Mist and fog enshroud its 120 acres, which include woods, a creek, a waterfall, cliffs, and sprawling expanses that overlook the ocean. Hidden within this dramatic landscape are yurts, meditation hut, cottages, and therapy rooms. There’s no cell service, and Wi-Fi is only available in the property’s main lodge and some select accommodations. However, it’s shut off during meal times to encourage connection between other members in your program.
Lodging, in general, is no-frills. (Don’t go looking for free toiletries or televisions in the rooms—there are none.) How basic you want to go is up to you. Want to just sleep in a sack on the floor? Esalen will let you do that. Want to rent a private house that belonged to Fritz Perls, creator of Gestalt therapy? You can do that too. Most guests, however, will opt for a standard king-size bedroom or a yurt.
A luxury getaway this is not, but it is a true transcendentalist retreat that many have said transformed their life. (The New York Times called it a “storied hippie hotel.”) Since its founding in 1962, it has attracted names like George Harrison, Allen Ginsburg, Robert Rauschenberg, and John Denver. In recent years, it’s become a hot spot for Silicon Valley leaders.
The history?
Esalen was founded by Michael Murphy and Dick Price in 1962, two Stanford graduates who were early advocates of the Human Potential Movement. (The Human Potential movement, which arose out of 1960s counterculture, believed most people had a vast trove of untapped potential that required practice to access.) They founded Esalen so people could explore their own consciousness through a combination of Zen Buddhism, Western psychology, and yoga. Throughout the decades, Esalen became a center of experimental thought, with famous lecturers often visiting, such as Aldous Huxley, who held sessions on “Human Potentialities.” As Esalen grew more famous, the number of programs grew. Now, Esalen welcomes over 12,000 people per year.
What should you try?
It’s impossible for me to say—Esalen offers hundreds of workshops throughout the year and is a deeply personal experience. Look on their website and pick the one that speaks to you. I will say, however, that those who are in need of emotional healing in particular may find solace at Esalen, which has a dedicated “healing arts” and and somatics department. Those who consider themselves original and independent thinkers will also find a number of programs that speak to them as short as a weekend and as long as a month.
How environmentally friendly is it?
Esalen is rooted in sustainability. Not only do they have an organic farm and garden, but they regularly hold workshops that explore environmentalism and personal eco-journeys. This spring, for example, they will have a two-week workshop on environmental stewardship.
What else do we need to know?
The hot springs at Esalen are clothing-optional, and most people prefer to be in the nude.
Who can go?
Esalen is open for those enrolled in a workshop or experimental program. You can come for the day with a pre-reserved Esalen massage appointment or as a scheduled volunteer. There’s also an invite-only Center for Theory Research, which brings together thought leaders to discuss forward-thinking ideas and issues.
Booking details for Esalen
Address: 55000 CA-1, Big Sur, CA 93920
Read more from Vogue’s Global Spa Guide.
