Paris is a near-perfect city to find where culture and tennis meet. Last year, as I traveled the globe in pursuit of tennis courts while working on my new book, The Tennis Court, I made a friend in Paris—a tennis-obsessed French artist and photographer named Maia. It was May, time for the French Open, and together we set out for pastries and tennis courts, in that order, every day for two weeks.
The iconic French red clay used to cover many courts around the city kicked up in paprika-colored plumes everywhere we went. And now with the Olympics arriving in July, those who attend the Games can embrace Parisian tennis culture from a different angle.
This year, Olympic tennis will be held on the red clay at Roland-Garros, the annual home of the French Open. It will be the first time Olympic tennis has been held on a clay surface since Barcelona in 1992. Those who venture out toward Bois de Boulogne in the 16th arrondissement will watch most matches on Court Philippe Chatrier, the roughly 15,000-seat stadium originally built in 1928 as the centerpiece for French players competing in the Davis Cup, tennis’s World Cup. (For those who can’t make it to see the red clay fly, the city of Paris is setting up fan zones all around the city for screenings.)
While at the event, if you’re looking to brush up on your tennis history, there’s a tennis museum located on the grounds. Inside, you’ll find displays of mostly French and European tennis history in the form of contemporary art, cartoons, photography, and sculpture.
Beyond the grounds, everyone ought to pick up a racquet and play or take a lesson, and there are plenty of courts around the city. Pick a morning—it’ll be less busy—and head out to the mesmerizing Sports Center Jules Ladoumègue, where you’ll find indoor courts with walls stylized to mimic the keys of a piano.
You can also pop open a can of balls at the courts inside the French gardens of the Jardin du Luxembourg or Tennis de l’Atlantique, a court located above a bustling train station. They’re open to the public and for reservations with a city tennis permit. Racing Club de France, a historic sporting club dating back to the late 1800s, offers hard and clay courts. On the outskirts of the city, you can watch or play in the gardens at Cercle Athlétique de Montrouge.
Of course, some of the most idyllic and meticulously maintained courts in Paris are at private clubs. If you can swing an invitation, or tag along with tennis brands like The Ace Club when they hold events, Tenis de la Cavalerie, the indoor court with a cantilevered wood roof, and the clay courts at Le Tir and Paris Racing are some of the most sought after tennis courts across all of Europe.
When it comes time to eat, spectators tend to agree that Roland-Garros is home to the best on-site food among all the pro tour stops. You can have a croque monsieur in a verdant terrace abutting Suzanne-Lenglen Court, or opt for a cheese and charcuterie plate at Center Court. Outside the facility, you can enjoy the high-minded cuisine at Apicius. For classic Parisian cuisine near the courts, La Grande Cascade, with its crispy veal or blue lobster served on an airy patio, is a worthy splurge. Or, if you want something relaxed and sweet after a day in the sun, French players past and present are often spotted at Berthillon in Île Saint-Louis and Les Fous for a classic French bistro.
Finally, if it’s a hotel you’re after, the super-luxe Ritz Paris and Park Hyatt Paris-Vendôme are where Federer, Serena, and Sharapova often stay during their visits. 1 Place Vendôme, from Swiss fine jewelry and watchmaker Chopard and the Scheufele family, is another crown jewel of the 1st arrondissement, or you can opt for the extra-stylish Madame Rêve Hotel with its 10,000-square-foot rooftop in central Paris.
