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When the schedule for Milan Fashion Week’s Spring/Summer edition was released in July, there was a notable absence: Versace. Tongues began wagging: how would new creative director Dario Vitale, who was appointed in March after Donatella Versace stepped down from the role, present his debut collection?
Then, last week, with Milan in full swing, editors received an email confirming that an event would indeed take place on the evening of 26 September. Details were kept under wraps, but seating allocations suggested a runway show. The physical invitation was a love letter, penned by writer and art curator David Rimanelli. “Dearest… You are the air I desperately, hopelessly desire,” it read. It was signed off: “Yours in the undoing.”
What unfolded was indeed a show, held at the Pinacoteca Ambrosiana, an art gallery that houses works by artists such as Da Vinci, Caravaggio and Titian. Vitale jarred the senses by filling the storied space with everyday objects found in a home: an unmade bed, a hairdryer placed on folded white towels, a collection of pots and pans. Backstage, he described an intention to create an environment that was beautiful and bourgeois, but “sometimes it’s not that proper. Not everything is perfect.” The bed sheets were his own, he added.
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The collection referenced the brand’s ’80s Gianni Versace era. It was bold and brash, and — like the messy bed sheets — sexy and undone. “The jersey dresses were Madame Grès-ish coming, but going, they were barely held together above a pair of logo briefs,” wrote Vogue Runway and Vogue Business’s global director Nicole Phelps in her review. “Tops were cut low on the side like Miami Beach muscle tees, the edges left unfinished; belts on high-waisted jeans were left undone, and sometimes the zippers too. And never before have a chainmail bra top and matching skirt come down a Versace runway with a prim little cashmere cardigan tied around the hips.”
The stakes were high for Vitale’s debut: this is the first collection in the brand’s 47-year history not creatively overseen by either Gianni or Donatella Versace (the latter has transitioned to the new role of chief brand ambassador; she did not attend last night’s show). It is also Versace’s first show since its sale by Capri Holdings to Prada Group for €1.25 billion was agreed in April.
Capri sold the brand to strengthen its balance sheet and focus on growing Michael Kors and Jimmy Choo, after the Capri-Tapestry merger was blocked. “Over the last six years, we have made tremendous progress in repositioning the brand to place greater emphasis on its luxury heritage and exceptional craftsmanship,” said Capri chairman and CEO John Idol in a statement at the time. “Through elevated product, marketing and store enhancements, the brand is now well positioned for sustainable long-term growth. We are confident that Prada Group is the perfect company to further guide Versace into its next era of growth and success.”
With new ownership typically comes a new look, from the clothes themselves to a brand’s backend operations. What’s next for Versace?
In May, Capri revealed that the brand’s revenue fell 19.7 per cent on a constant currency basis to $208 million in the fourth quarter of fiscal 2025, year on year. It made an operating loss of $13 million, compared with a profit of $1 million in Q4 2024. The sale to Prada is expected to close in the second half of 2025, subject to regulatory approvals.
Vitale is well-versed in the machinations of Prada Group, having worked at Miu Miu for almost 15 years, most recently as design director of ready-to-wear and head of image. He hinted at his vision for Versace during the Venice Film Festival, dressing both Julia Roberts (an unexpected choice for Versace) and Amanda Seyfried in the same slouchy suit for the red carpet in a viral look swap stunt. The brand then teased its Spring/Summer 2026 collection on the morning of the show, with a campaign shot featuring a model wearing nothing but an embroidered waistcoat on its socials.
For his debut collection, Vitale delved deep into the Versace archive. The show notes describe a process of “unearthing the foundations of Versace, connecting with the fundamental essence of the house. A journey that begins with the archive, reaching beyond clothing, connecting with a feeling, an attitude, a way of being.” This included examining letters, photographs, art and other “ephemera” connected to the brand.
“To me, it was more the feeling of journey, the feeling of this company, the feeling of the legacy, more than the [archival] pieces themselves. I wanted to go behind the clothing, to the spirit of Versace,” Vitale said backstage after the show.
The afterparty continued the mood. How do buyers feel about it in the light of the following day?
Initial reactions
“Dario Vitale has opened a new chapter of Versace. The show location at Pinoteca Ambrosiana, the collection and the after-drink moment at [Milan institution] Peck, were about living an experience and creating emotions. It was intimate and warm, it was generous and spontaneous, it was fun and audacious.
Dario Vitale shows his strong storytelling ability by putting the brand back into people’s lives and sharing Italian culture and Gianni’s ethos. This is something increasingly sought after in brands today, and a key factor in making them particularly desirable.”
Alix Morabito, global buying director, Galeries Lafayette
“This debut also shows how Dario Vitale stays true to the brand’s spirit while introducing a new vocabulary that feels unique in today’s market. It was a very rich, complete and eclectic collection that speaks to a wide audience of women, a strong commercial advantage.”
Juliet Dyer, head of womenswear — luxury, designer, Galeries Lafayette
“It was unexpected: the venue, the set and then the casting, the punch of colour, really embracing a lot of the boldness of Versace, the heritage of Versace. I think Dario took a real risk and certainly made a big, bold debut. It’s always been bold, but this was an evolution. He definitely made a mark. It’s a season of a lot of creative director changes. How do you stand out in this moment? I think he managed to do that. I m excited to get back in the showroom and see everything up close. It was fun, and isn’t that what fashion is supposed to be about?”
Rickie de Sole, VP, fashion director, Nordstrom
“I thought that Dario Vitale’s debut felt like a fresh start for Versace while staying true to the house DNA. Strong ’80s energy came through, the menswear was particularly powerful, and the women’s collection has clearly moved forward — a confident step up from last season.”
Bosse Myhr, director of buying, Selfridges
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