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A star-studded guest list! A Pilaf sighting! Burgundy everywhere! Sabato De Sarno touched down in London on May 13 to reveal Gucci’s 2025 cruise collection, where the front row drew a throng of fashion heavy-hitters, not to mention notable friends and family—Dua Lipa, Solange Knowles, Alexa Chung, Demi Moore (and her three-year-old Chihuahua!) were some of the A-listers in attendance. Kate and Lila Moss also made a cameo, as did Debbie Harry—the latter two rubbing shoulders in matching platform loafers in the “Rosso Ancora” shade that De Sarno debuted in his spring/summer collection.
His vision for cruise, which was presented at the Tate Modern in the brutalist architectural gallery space of The Tanks, could be seen as both a homecoming and full circle moment for De Sarno, who’s spent significant time in the city. It’s worthy of note that while Gucci’s last London show predates the 2016 Brexit referendum, the Italian label has established roots in the English capital. As the story goes, a teenage Guccio Gucci was working at the Savoy hotel as a baggage porter back in 1899, when he was inspired to found the company.
More minimalist in his vision than his predecessor, De Sarno’s cruise collection picks up where he left off, with a show that was a little romantic, a little bohemian in spirit. There were suede blazers and pussy-bow blouses billowing out from under; zip-up barn jackets and column skirts, and shimmering beaded fringes arranged as tiles in a plaid-like effect. These looks stood out on their own, but there were certain overarching themes that caught our attention, both for their familiarity and instant wearability. For one, sheer skirts and pants felt omnipresent on the runway; baggy jeans and Mary Janes dominated a handful looks as well. The array of tunics might be the only real curveball, until you remember that a boho revival is underway.
Feeling inspired? Ahead, a breakout of a few of our favorite trends, plus similar pieces to shop.
Spring Mary Janes
Gucci hops aboard the Mary Jane train with ultra-charming styles of its own in earthy tones with the label’s signature horse-bit detailing. Sport yours now with a crochet mididress or long-sleeve suede mini for a fresh play on textures.
Denim Shackets and Pullovers
A moment for the denim top please, here deftly styled over an embellished, slightly sheer midiskirt with loafers and ankle socks. Get the look with Auralee or Cos’s tunic, or a button-down that can be worn open over a white T-shirt. For those of you beach bound, don’t forget that tunics are also the perfect swimsuit cover-up.
Sweet Sheer Skirts
The sheer skirt looks Sabata de Sarno sent down the runway were a masterclass in revealing and concealing. Have fun with color! Embrace layering! His M.O. here encourages you to opt for a longer top—this could be a button-up or a structured jacket, or both—to add structure (and a little coverage) atop gauzy bottoms. Skip the earrings and focus on the neck instead; a pearl choker feels both classic and modern, though for more summer flair, go for a long pendant that turns an object into jewelry. Sweet Mary-Janes ground the look.
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Cool, Baggy Blue Jeans
Is there anything cooler than a baggy jean? De Sarno confirms there isn’t. Suede accents and long, shaggy hair give the look boho flair, while low-rise waists and puddling hems keep it in the now. Try a similar look with a white button-down and a few of our favorite baggy denim pairs, below.
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