The Fleet Is in Town: See 33 Head-Turning Gaultier Couture Marinières

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Rat tail marinière by Gaultier Paris couture, 2021Photo: Nicolas Coulomb (@nicolascoulomb)  / Courtesy of Jean Paul Gaultier
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Corset marinière by Gaultier Paris couture, 2021Photo: Nicolas Coulomb (@nicolascoulomb)  / Courtesy of Jean Paul Gaultier
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Corset marinière by Gaultier Paris couture, 2021Photo: Nicolas Coulomb (@nicolascoulomb)  / Courtesy of Jean Paul Gaultier
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Marinière with rat tail sleeves by Gaultier Paris couture, 2021Photo: Nicolas Coulomb (@nicolascoulomb)  / Courtesy of Jean Paul Gaultier

Jean Paul Gaultier is entering a new era under the creative direction of Florence Tétier. A relative unknown who’s spent years behind the scenes in publishing and art direction, Tétier’s first step has been to relaunch JPG ready-to-wear, which the brand discontinued in 2015. For drop number one, she’s put the focus on the marinière. At the same time, she’s asked the couture atelier to create six one-of-a-kind, made-by-hand striped shirts, underlining the brand’s commitment to the métier.

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Jean Paul Gaultier and a model at the close of his spring 1999 couture show.

Photo: Condé Nast Archive

Gaultier launched his brand in the late 1970s, and it wasn’t long until the striped sailor shirt, or marinière, was part of his “uniform.” It soon became a brand signature too. Inspired by his childhood wardrobe and by Rainer Fassbinder’s 1982 film Querelle, Gaultier showed striped shirts in his 1984 “Boy Toy” menswear collection. When he introduced couture in 1997, the nautical inspiration sailed with him, elevating what is traditionally a humble cotton top with materials like marabou feathers, sequins, and fur. See some of them here.

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Épaulette marinière by Gaultier Paris couture, 2021Photo: Nicolas Coulomb (@nicolascoulomb)  / Courtesy of Jean Paul Gaultier
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Laced marinière by Gaultier Paris couture, 2021Photo: Nicolas Coulomb (@nicolascoulomb)  / Courtesy of Jean Paul Gaultier
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Laced marinière by Gaultier Paris couture, 2021Photo: Nicolas Coulomb (@nicolascoulomb)  / Courtesy of Jean Paul Gaultier
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Cage marinière by Gaultier Paris couture, 2021 Photo: Nicolas Coulomb (@nicolascoulomb)  / Courtesy of Jean Paul Gaultier
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Gaultier Paris, spring 1997 couture

Photo: Condé Nast Archive
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Gaultier Paris, fall 1997 couture

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Gaultier Paris, spring 1998 couture

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Gaultier Paris, spring 2000 couture

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Gaultier Paris, fall 2000 couture

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Gaultier Paris, fall 2000couture

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Gaultier Paris, spring 2002 couture

Antoine de Parseval
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Gaultier Paris, spring 2002 couture

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Gaultier Paris, spring 2003 couture

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Gaultier Paris, spring 2003 couture

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Gaultier Paris, spring 2006 couture

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Gaultier Paris, spring 2008 couture

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Gaultier Paris, spring 2008 couture

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Gaultier Paris, fall 2009 couture

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Gaultier Paris, spring 2011 couture

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Gaultier Paris, spring 2012 couture

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Gaultier Paris, spring 2014 couture

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Gaultier Paris, fall 2015 couture

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Gaultier Paris, fall 2015 couture

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Gaultier Paris, fall 2015 couture

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Gaultier Paris, fall 2015 couture

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Gaultier Paris, spring 2019 couture

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Gaultier Paris, spring 2019 couture

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Gaultier Paris, fall 2019 couture

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Gaultier Paris, spring 2020 couture

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Gaultier Paris, spring 2020 couture

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Gaultier Paris, spring 2020 couture

Photo: Alessandro Lucioni / Gorunway.com