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They spell it with a C in some parts of the Middle East and usually with a K in the West. But luxury fashion e-commerce businesses aren’t too worried about the spelling. The kaftan, or caftan, is turning into one of the most reliable bestsellers on their websites.
At Cannes Film Festival this year, a highlight look was the billowing white low-necked kaftan dress, from Gucci’s Resort 2025 collection worn by American actress Elle Fanning. Meanwhile, Net-a-Porter reports an increase in searches for beach kaftans of 54 per cent over the last three months — and an overall significant increase of 400 per cent for kaftan dresses in the last month.
Marrakech has hosted its own Caftan Week since 1996, organised by Moroccan magazine Femmes Du Maroc. The latest week, held 9-12 May, was attended by Arabic music star Wael Jassar and renowned Moroccan singer Bassma Boussel. The Moroccan kaftan is special — “distinguished by its intricate embroidery, luxurious fabrics, and detailed craftsmanship”, according to Ichrak Moubsit, director of publications at Femmes Du Maroc. “Traditionally worn during special occasions such as weddings and religious celebrations, it symbolises Moroccan elegance and sophistication.”
The kaftan’s origins can be traced way back to the Mesopotamian era — the easy silhouette finding its way to Russia, the Mediterranean, South Asia, West Africa and, in the 12th century, to the MENA region, where it is still everyday wear.
Armani Privé’s Spring/Summer 2024 haute couture collection features a blue robe suggestive of the kaftans of Morocco, its inclusion reflecting the purchasing power of Middle Eastern consumers.
The kaftan has become an international summer classic. “It’s now a staple of summer wardrobes worldwide,” says Libby Page, market director at Net-a-Porter. “European brands like Etro and Missoni, renowned for their relaxed and resort-inspired take on fashion, have incorporated the kaftan silhouette into their signature styles, infusing it with their unique aesthetic and design ethos,” says Page.
The Covid factor
In the 1960s, the kaftan emerged as a symbol of what the West perceived as exotica, worn by Western film star icons such as Barbara Hutton and Elizabeth Taylor. It became a favoured global fashion silhouette in the summer months.
More recently, the pandemic proved to be a game-changer for the kaftan. Richard Johnson, CCO at luxury e-commerce platform Mytheresa, says, “Covid-19 likely played a role in further cementing the kaftan’s position in fashion. With the rise of remote work and a more relaxed approach to dressing, comfort and versatility became paramount. The kaftan’s ability to effortlessly transition from casual loungewear to elegant evening attire aligned perfectly with these shifting lifestyle demands, thus solidifying its status as a fashion must-have, pandemic or not.”
The same trend is noted by Abeer Al Otaiba, founder of label SemSem. “The kaftan has transcended cultural boundaries to become a global silhouette embraced by women across continents, from Europe to Australia and beyond,” she says. “As a very effortless, elegant, and versatile piece, the kaftan has become a universally appealing fashion choice.”
SemSem sells in the US and throughout the Middle East, with kaftans consistently among its bestsellers. People are buying kaftans year-round, not just for summer. “From vacations to weddings and casual outings, kaftans are becoming increasingly popular for all seasons and occasions,” Al Otaiba says.
From resort wear to the red carpet
Mytheresa works closely with brands ranging from Taller Marmo to Valentino to ensure kaftans are included in exclusive styles. Italy’s Etro, Missoni and Pucci, all known for their resort-friendly approach to fashion and their love of colour and prints, have long embraced the kaftan.
Now, it’s becoming an eveningwear staple. SemSem’s Abeer Al Otaiba says, “Our signature gold silk/metallic plissé kaftan is an absolute favourite with our customers. It comes with a removable belt as well as a coordinating pleated gold metallic headscarf. It’s studded with beautiful Swarovski buttons along the front and moves so beautifully when you walk.”
A key brand in driving the elevation of the kaftan is Taller Marmo, an occasion-focused label that has seen a 50 per cent increase in kaftan sales over the past six months on Net-a-Porter. Founded in Dubai in 2013 by Italy’s Riccardo Audisio and Argentina’s Yago Goicoechea, Taller Marmo went big on kaftans from the start. Initially, that put off international buyers. “It took a lot of time and maybe stubbornness from our side to convince the buyers and the industry in general. At that time, it was all about dressing the working woman and the blazers,” recalls Audisio.
Persistence paid off. “The symbol of our brand is the kaftan, and it is our bestseller,” he says. “We think the kaftan is a statement. When we started Taller Marmo, the idea was to create quality-driven pieces for modern women who want to feel fabulous without trying too hard.”
One of their most popular styles is the fringed Mrs Ross (inspired by Diana Ross) with a scarf detail, available in both long and short versions. It was worn by Nicole Ari Parker at the Grammys and Oscar-winning British actress Olivia Colman at the New York premiere of the film Wicked Little Letters. Canada’s Jillian Dion of Martin Scorsese’s film Killers of the Flower Moon wore a SemSem pink metallic kaftan ensemble for the Oscars red carpet, demonstrating how the kaftan has evolved way beyond beach cover-up dressing.
The kaftan is a natural fit in a fashion world striving to be more size-inclusive and culturally diverse. “Our kaftans are mainly one size, and they can fit a 36 as well as a 52. This is probably one of the main reasons for its success,” says Goicoechea of Taller Marmo. “I do believe they will never go out of style. Kaftans are timeless and modern at the same time.” Other brands championing the kaftan include Dublin-based Pippa Holt and Delhi’s D’Ascoli.
The tailored touch has given the kaftan a broader market. “The fluid silhouette we create, made for all women of all body types, requires expertise in tailoring and precision in the construction of the garment,” says Audisio. “It marries the best of the Middle East’s heritage with Western sartorial savoir-faire.”
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