I can count the number of beers I’ve drunk in my life on one hand. One of which was at Oktoberfest: a liter of froth-topped amber liquid served to me in a dimpled glass beer stein the size of my head. I was 22 years old and happened to be visiting Munich during its annual celebration. After queuing up at 8 a.m. to enter the festive Winzerer Fähndl tent, I was told by my Oktoberfest-mates that I was verboten from leaving before finishing the beer I had been nursing all morning. (Yes, it was morning.)
Oktoberfest wasn’t my planned destination that day. I was there, and one of a scarce few not in traditional tracht (dirndls for women, lederhosen for men), as a stopover before hitting up the main point of my itinerary: visiting the fantastical Neuschwanstein Castle, which Walt Disney famously modeled Cinderella’s castle after. As I soon learned, Germans have about as much enthusiasm for Neuschwanstein (the saccharine-sweet Romantic castle commissioned by the eccentric King Ludwig II of Bavaria, a.k.a the Swan King), which sits on the German/Austrian border as they do for another Austrian delight by the name of The Sound of Music—which is to say, little to none. Though my hours in Winzerer Fähndl introduced me to elegant possibilities of the dirndl, my Oktoberfest remains a been-there, done-that experience.
Fast forward 10 years, and I am now the wife of a German who owns a pair of deerskin lederhosen that comes out once a year, each September, for Oktoberfest. Mind you, I’m open-armed with my embrace of his culture—Monday nights, you’ll find me at NYU’s Deutsches Haus, where I’m fumbling over umlauts for the sake of our unborn children’s ability to speak their father’s native language with me. “Life is too short to learn German,” so they say. (The quote has a murky provenance but it’s attributed to Oscar Wilde—sounds about right.)
Could I also learn to enjoy the beverage that fuels the culture that speaks it? Let’s try this again, shall we? While I won’t be in Munich this season, I will be hosting an Oktoberfest-themed dinner at home, and so decided to reach out to some of the most stylish Germans I know: Charly Sturm (New York It girl by way of Düsseldorf and VP of brand development at Dr. Barbara Sturm), Veronika Heilbrunner (former editor and perpetual cool girl from the Bavarian countryside near Munich), Dorothee Schumacher (designer of her eponymous ready-to-wear label from Düsseldorf), and Kerstin Weng (our very own editor in chief of Vogue Germany from Munich, home of Oktoberfest). Find all their tips for hosting a chic Oktoberfest celebration, below.
Vogue: Is beer a non-negotiable? Or can I serve wine, too?
Heilbrunner: As a true Bavarian, I have to say it’s a must. But you can cheat by serving Champagne with lots of ice in a stone jug (the classic beer one).
Sturm: I am one of the few Germans who do not enjoy beer, so I love that Champagne or wine is an alternative and is most definitely acceptable to serve.
Schumacher: Oh, you can absolutely serve wine! A chic Oktoberfest dinner is all about your personal flair. Even the most traditional Bavarian would appreciate a fine Riesling or an elegant Pinot Noir alongside the beer. Think of it as a perfect pairing for those who prefer a touch of sophistication.
Weng: Beer is important, but wine is okay, too. As you might know, there are different tents—some of them belong directly to breweries (like Augustiner) and some to local families (Schottenhammell). Overall, there are over 35 tents, some of them serving wine. And there is actually a tent, which serves mostly wine, called the Weinzelt. So you are good to go with wine when hosting a dinner, but beer should be included, too.
Must beer come in oversized mugs? Can I serve it in crystal Pilsner glasses?
Heilbrunner: You have to imagine drinking beer out of gigantic mugs is like an arm workout—while having fun!
Sturm: If you have access to oversized mugs, they are definitely part of the fun. Even the Champagne and wine is served in those.
Schumacher: Crystal Pilsner glasses? Absolutely! Who says Oktoberfest can’t sparkle a little more? While the oversized mugs are iconic, crystal Pilsners give a refined twist, and I’m all for making traditions your own. You’ll still get that golden glow of the beer, just with a little more elegance.
Weng: No! This would be seen as a huge issue. The reason is that the mugs are filled with a beer called Helles, which is a different kind of beer than Pils. It would be like serving espresso in a latte macchiato-glas. So you can go with other glasses, but definitely not with dedicated Pilsner ones.
Should I feature the blue and white Bavarian flag motif somewhere on my dinner table?
Heilbrunner: I’d rather you do a gingham tablecloth in any shade (whatever your heart desires). Much more beautiful and true.
Sturm: Absolutely! A decor essential.
Schumacher: Only if you do it à la mode! The blue and white can be a playful nod without dominating your table. Think chic napkins or maybe a subtle accent in the flower arrangement. Or go all out on your own color scheme but keep the shapes and patterns traditional! The key is to keep it elegant, not kitschy.
Weng: Not necessarily, but for sure it is an easy element to go with.
What are some “elevated” traditional things I can put on my table?
Heilbrunner: Oktoberfest is traditionally a party for the people. The whole idea is enjoying “the simple things.” For a more yum look, I would present everything in very classic porcelain (Meißen or Nymphenburg if you have—there are beautiful vintage pieces on eBay and such) and crystal.
Sturm: I find customized, gingham table napkins with the guests’ initials, for instance, very charming. And a pretzel stand (a little thing you can hang your Pretzels on) is a cute extra.
Schumacher: Think about artisanal pretzels with gourmet mustard, delicate white sausages (Weißwurst) served in stunning porcelain, and, of course, a selection of charcuterie with freshly baked bread. Add touches like wooden boards or silver serving trays to give it that “elevated” feel. It’s all about the juxtaposition between tradition and modern chic.
Weng: You can decorate with local flowers. The Edelweiss is the national flower of Bavaria.
What should be on the menu?
Heilbrunner: Brezen, Weißwurst, Obazta with fresh onion, Krautsalat, Hendl, Apfelstrudel, and pickled cucumbers to cover the basics.
Sturm: As a starter, you should definitely have some sort of Bavarian charcuterie board with cured meats, cheeses, salted radishes, butter, hard-boiled eggs, pickles, sausages, fresh bread, and pretzels and any other spreads or smoked fish you may like. And if you can, try the traditional cheese spread called Obazda. For the main, I’d recommend some form of cooked meat, either a roast duck or chicken, along with traditional potato dumplings (Knödel), cooked red cabbage with apple (Rotkraut), and a delicious gravy. For dessert, if you want to go all in (but I have to warn you, it’s not an easy one), Kaiserschmarrn with apple sauce and powdered sugar is the way to go.
Schumacher: Start with a warm pretzel basket and creamy Obatzda (a Bavarian cheese spread), then move into roasted pork or duck, paired with red cabbage and potato dumplings. Don’t forget a lovely Kaiserschmarrn (a fluffy shredded pancake) for dessert. Your guests will be swooning, trust me.
Weng: If you can get some in the US, Weißwurst! Non-vegetarian: pork with Spätzle. Vegetarian: Bratkartoffeln.
Can tracht be chic? What are some things I should stay away from?
Heilbrunner: I do love a beautiful dirndl. Tracht is super chic. Think of all the designers who have been inspired by it, from Vivienne Westwood to Coco Chanel to Miuccia Prada. Nothing better than a classic Janker. I wear mine all the time. I have the Chanel version, but also from a classic Bavarian shop (which is comparatively a bargain, obv). A dirndl should be ideally midi or, at the shortest, knee-length. Shorter ones are cute for kids and teens. For fabric, choose heavier ones like cotton or velvet. Stay away from anything polyester for the blouse. Lace or cotton is beautiful. If unsure, I always recommend a dirndl with sleeves—it feels less costumey and more like a Marc Jacobs gown. In terms of shoes, I say anything goes. Whatever your vibe is. Personally, I go for either Timberlands or ballerinas and socks.
Sturm: So chic. I recently came across a brand called Annina Dirndl, which I love. The designs are classic, chic, yet colorful and fun. If you are looking for something a little more extravagant, Lola Paltinger’s dirndls are stunning!
Schumacher: Oh, tracht is always chic when done right! It’s less about the brand but more about your take on it. I always feel a modern interpretation of traditional pieces with a touch of luxe is what makes all the difference in this case. Stay away from anything too touristy: You want your tracht to say “timeless,” not “souvenir.”
Weng: Definitely! Tracht can be very chic—dirndl in black and in maxi length, for example, and with a white high-necked blouse. Great brands are Gottseidank, Amsel, Sportalm, Lodenfrey. Please do not go too short (over-the-knee), and avoid cheap-looking materials.
What kind of music should I play?
Heilbrunner: Do you want torture? [Laughs.] You can go for Blasmusik [German brass band music] once everyone has had about three little beers.
Sturm: There‘s this one song called “Ein Prosit,” which essentially translates to “A cheers” which you must play in between for people to cheers and take a sip. It’s a fun one! Other than that you should go for a lot of old-school classics, some cheesy ones. “Sweet Caroline” tends to play on repeat, and “Angels” by Robbie Williams is a must.
Schumacher: Add an element of surprise and mix old-world charm with a dash of modern flair—think classical tunes paired with some smooth jazz or even a little lounge music as the night goes on. It’s all about creating an ambiance that’s festive but still stylish.
Weng: In the tents, bands play party songs everyone knows. This is for getting people to drink. For dinner at home, you can go with the music of the family tents of the “Oide Wiesn,” a part of Oktoberfest, which is for families and inspired by Oktoberfest in past times. There are brass bands. A good song to play is the Bavarian hymns.
Anything else you can think of? Elements for a chic Oktoberfest dinner?
Heilbrunner: Definitely shots of Schnapps to get people dancing! But I wouldn’t recommend it to increase chicness.
Sturm: Braid your hair! And if you are not in the mood to wear a dirndl, go for a pair of Lederhosen. They’re cool for women, too.
Schumacher: Fresh flowers, always. Hydrangeas or wildflowers in soft tones will add that chic, understated elegance to your table. And maybe a vintage beer stein or two as a nod to tradition—just don’t let them steal the show from your crystal glasses!
Weng: A lot of luxury brands celebrate Oktoberfest, too, like Tiffany
Co., Bulgari, and Gucci.
They always have personalized gingerbread hearts called Lebkuchenherzen. They are available all over the festive ground, and the personalized version is cute and has style.
