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A leather jacket is a forever wardrobe staple for a reason—not only is it supremely practical, but it has the power to imbue even the simplest look with effortless cool. From the fitted motorcycle styles worn by Blondie and Joan Jett in the 1980s to the minimalist silhouettes worn by Gwyneth Paltrow and Carolyn Bessette-Kennedy in the 1990s to the slouchy bombers offered by Saint Laurent and Acne more recently, the iterations are endless—yet utterly timeless.
Of course, ensuring your leather jacket actually withstands the tests of time requires proper care. Leather may be durable—bikers wear it, after all!—but it is also a natural material prone to tearing, drying, and cracking. Thus, learning how to clean a leather jacket the right way is essential.
“The most important thing to remember before you do anything is the ‘golden rule,’” says Umer Ismail of The Jacket Maker, a brand that specializes in custom-made suede and leather jackets. “Always test first. Before using any cleaning product, test it on a small, hidden area of the jacket—like the inside hem or under an arm—to make sure it doesn t cause discoloration or damage.” Below, Ismail provides more tips on how to clean a leather jacket, as well as the proper steps for removing stains and conditioning.
Cleaning a leather jacket
When it comes to knowing how to clean a leather jacket, it’s important to first know which type of leather your working with. “This is the most critical step, as the cleaning method depends on it,” notes Ismail. “Check the tag.”
Most leather jackets will fall into one of the following three categories:
- Finished leather—This is the most common type and features a protective coating. It’s also the most resistant to stains.
- Suede or nubuck—You’ll know its suede or nubuck if it has a soft, napped surface. “These types require special brushes and cleaners. Do not use standard leather cleaners on these,” says Ismail.
- Unfinished or aniline Leather—This type is very absorbent and stains easily. It requires professional-grade products and extra care.
Once you know the type of leather you’re working with, make sure to empty pockets—you don’t want loose change, forgotten lipstick, or stray gum messing with your process. If the jacket has a detachable liner, you’ll also want to remove that. “You should wash the liner separately, following the directions on its label,” says Ismail.
Hang the jacket on a hanger and use a soft, dry cloth or a soft-bristled brush to gently wipe away any surface dust and dirt.
For general cleaning—not deep stains—the best method is also the most straightforward. “Slightly dampen a soft, white cloth with distilled water, then gently wipe down the entire surface of the jacket,” advises Ismail.
Just remember, the devil’s really in the details here. You want to be sure to use only a tiny bit of water; the cloth should only be slightly damp. And don’t skip out on distilled water, either. According to Ismail, “tap water can leave mineral spots.”
Whether you’re cleaning leather boots or a leather jacket, Ismail says condition leather is “essential” because cleaning with water can strip the leather. “Conditioning is important as it restores the natural oils and prevents the leather from drying out and cracking. (More on conditioning below.)
When you’ve finished, let the jacket air dry completely away from a heat source to prevent any warping or shrinking. “Air dry only,” emphasizes Ismail. “Never use a hairdryer, never put it near a radiator, and never leave it in direct sunlight. Heat will make the leather brittle and cracked.”
To avoid any of the aforementioned leather tragedies, hang the jacket on a sturdy, padded hanger in a well-ventilated room away from a window or heat source until it is completely dry.
Spot stain removal
For all stains, it’s best to act quickly—in other words, as soon as you see the stain. Acting quickly will prevent the stain from setting. Next, be sure to blot, not rub. For fresh spills, use a clean, dry cloth to immediately blot the offending liquid. “Rubbing will only push the stain deeper into the leather,” says Ismail.
For general grime or unidentified substances, use the damp cloth method described above. “A simple wipe with distilled water is often enough for minor spots,” says Ismail.
If you have a really stubborn or set-in stain, you will probably have to resort to more intensive methods—i.e., a cleaner specifically made for your type of leather. Once you’ve procured the right product, apply a small amount of the cleaner to a soft cloth. “Never apply cleaner directly onto the jacket,” says Ismail. “Remember to test it on an inconspicuous area of the leather first.”
Next, gently work on the stain in a circular motion. Pro tip: Be sure to do this in a well-light area during daylight hours if possible. This will help you get a better sense of how your efforts are working and prevent you from overdoing it. Easy does it—go slow. When you feel satisfied, wipe away any excess cleaner with a clean, damp cloth and let it air dry completely.
What to avoid when treating stains on leather
Remember, leather may seem tough but it requires special care. “It’s important to never use household cleaners, bleach, ammonia, alcohol, or acetone,” says Ismail. “Never.”
As mentioned, you’ll also want to avoid using excessive water, as it can cause new stains or stiffness. Never fully saturate any part of a leather jacket with water.
Along those same lines, you should never wash your jacket in the washing machine. “It will strip the natural oils from the leather, which are essential for its softness, suppleness, and durability,” emphasizes Ismail.
Conditioning a leather jacket
Leather needs moisture, so don’t skip the conditioning. “Proper conditioning and maintenance are key to making a leather jacket last a lifetime,” explains Ismail. “Conditioning is a non-negotiable.”
To condition a leather jacket properly, follow these steps:
Be sure not to apply conditioner to a leather jacket until it’s been fully air-dryed after cleaning. “Never apply conditioner to a damp jacket,” Ismail emphasizes.
Before using any leather conditioner, read the label on the product and on your jacket to ensure a match. You should only use conditioner specifically designed for your jacket’s type of leather. Suede, for example, requires a very lightweight conditioner to support to its delicate texture while other types of leather require oils and creams.
Put a small, dime-sized amount on a soft cloth. (Do not apply the conditioner directly onto the jacket.) Then, gently massage a thin, even layer across the entire jacket using circular motions. “Remember, less is more,” says Ismail.
Allow the conditioner to soak into the leather for about 15-30 minutes.
Using a separate clean, dry cloth, gently buff the surface to a soft shine and remove any excess product.
