When it comes to fall dressing, breaking out your favorite suede boots is a time-honored tradition. But knowing how to clean those suede shoes? That isn’t always a given. It is, however, a necessary skill. After all, who amongst us hasn’t suffered a sudden suede shoe disaster? You’re walking down the street for an afternoon coffee, when surprise! You’re hit with a splash of something on your favorite suede shoes.
It comes with the season. Cooler days and longer evenings bring puddles hidden under fallen leaves. Random bursts of rain leave mud in their wake. A stranger at a crowded party spills a drink on your feet. Annoying, yes—but, also, not a reason to stress: It’s not that difficult to transform the mess and keep your suede shoes looking fresh, once you know a few easy steps. As leather care expert Julian Nelson says, “soft, velvety materials like suede require extra care as they are more delicate and are prone to marks and staining, but regular maintenance of your favorite pair of suede shoes will keep them looking their best while extending their lifespan.”
Read on to learn how to clean suede shoes, as well as helpful tips on how to keep them looking pristine this fall and for seasons to come.
What not to do when cleaning suede?
Before jumping, it’s important to know what not to do. First and foremost, avoid soaking your suede shoes in water or anything else. And, it should be obvious, but do not put suede in the washing machine—ever.
If your suede shoes do happen to get soaked in the rain or by an errant spill, try to remove them as soon as possible and absorb as much water as you can with a paper towel or a microfiber cloth. Then, let the shoes dry completely before handling them or trying to remove any stains. Stuffing your shoes with paper towel or cedar shoe trees may help them dry quicker and retain their shape.
Avoid using harsh chemicals or household cleaning products on suede. Similarly, shoe polish is another big no-no. And, while a little bit of baking soda can definitely help remove stains (more on that below), avoid using it in excess as it can be abrasive. In general, it’s best to always be gentle when rubbing anything on suede.
Another thing to avoid when it comes to suede? Heat, which can cause suede to shrink, warp, or become otherwise misshapen. Keep your suede shoes away from direct sources of heat. Do not use a hair dryer on suede; do not place suede items in the dryer; and do not set suede items near radiators or heaters to dry. In other words, avoid heat at all costs.
Can suede get wet?
In a word, no. As mentioned, water is like kryptonite to suede—it leeches natural oils from the material, which may cause the suede to become stiff or weak. It can also cause shrinkage. Aside from using a light spritz here and there to remove small water stains (as outlined above), it really is best to keep suede away from water as much as possible.
With that in mind, try your best not to wear suede on days where it might rain or drizzle. Don’t wear suede in the snow; don’t wear suede when there are puddles in the streets. If your suede shoes do meet an unfortunate incident with water, try your best to absorb the liquid by dabbing with a paper towel as quickly as possible and let them air dry naturally.
How often should you clean suede?
When it comes to maintaining suede shoes, a little attention goes a long way. Thus, many experts recommend cleaning suede shoes and boots after every wear. If that sounds time-consuming or excessive, the next best option is to simply give them a nice, gentle brush—especially around the toe and heel, where dust tends to accumulate—after every few wears.
Shoes that are worn frequently should undergo a “deep” clean using the below steps every couple months and—ideally—before they’re starting to look worse for wear. It’s also smart to clean your suede shoes as soon as you notice a stain, even if it’s a small one.
How to clean suede shoes
Are your suede shoes still wet from the unfortunate puddle you stepped in? Stop. Put the pair of shoes down and let that excess moisture air dry before you pick up any kind of soap or suede eraser. Be sure to avoid drying the shoes under direct sunlight or with heat, as that can cause further damage. Dry time is key, because if your suede shoes are still wet when you start the cleaning process, you’ll just wind up rubbing in more grime.
Once your suede shoes are moisture-free, Nelson recommends removing the laces, then inserting shoe trees or crumpled paper to help maintain the shoe’s shape as you work. You’ll also want to set-up a clean workspace for yourself. “It’s best to work on a protective surface like newspaper or an old towel to prevent any mess,” Nelson advises.
The next first step is to brush away any superficial dirt. We recommend using a suede brush if you have one on hand; otherwise, a fingernail brush, toothbrush, or anything with soft bristles will suffice. A nail file can also work, as long as you operate gently. While brushing, try to follow the grain of the suede with a gentle amount of pressure. Should you encounter unsightly scuff marks, apply elbow grease: brush back and forth with a bit more pressure to agitate the fibers and get those dirt particles moving.
If you have a suede rubber—also known as a suede eraser—lying at the bottom of your junk drawer, this is its time to shine. If not, you can use a pencil eraser, or any kind of rubber eraser, to rub out stubborn stains or marks that are still catching your eye. Apply additional pressure while attempting to rub out these stains, but don t go crazy. Rub too hard, and you risk damaging the fabric.
While it is generally very important not to soak your suede shoes, sometimes you need to test the limits—especially when it comes to combating water stains and water spots. Grab an empty (and clean!) spray bottle to lightly spray water on the surface of the shoe. Just be careful when spritzing; water is the top reason suede gets ruined, so exercise restraint!
Once spritzed, lightly brush the stain and soak up any excess water with a paper towel or microfiber cloth before letting it air dry. “Dab the area with a slightly damp cloth and blend outward to even out the moisture,” Nelson says.
White vinegar is often regarded as a holy grail household cleanser, for both stains and surfaces. Easily accessible and environmentally conscious, vinegar’s unique acidic makeup is a whizz at breaking down stains—especially watermarks. Another readily available household staple that has similar effects is rubbing alcohol. Once you decide which cleaning product to use, dampen a washcloth or flannel and lightly dab the stain. And remember: the operative word is “lightly.”
That said, don’t be alarmed if the area you’ve patted turns a darker color. Whether you have bright pink clogs or orange suede boots, the material should return to its original color once it dries. If the stain is still there after air drying, repeat this process carefully until you see improvement. Excess liquid will only do more damage to the shoe (especially if that’s how it got there in the first place), so resist the temptation to soak or dunk your suede footwear in the vinegar or alcohol to speed up the process. Repeated, gentle patting may be slow and tedious, but it will be very worth the effort.
You may feel intimidated by oil and grease stains. Conventional wisdom is that these stains are impossible to remove, so hesitation is understandable. But don’t back down from this fight! Products you almost certainly have at home—baking soda, cornstarch, and liquid dish soap—are strong enough to take on these challenging splotches. A Magic Eraser—which is also primarily made of baking soda—can also be super useful for removing stains on suede, just avoid using it in excess or aggressively.
When working with baking soda or cornstarch, be sure to do a small patch test in a discreet spot before proceeding. Once you’re ready, amply cover the grease or oil stain with the powder and let it sit overnight before gently scraping it off with a cleaning brush. Either product should help with absorbing the oil and grease, so the more time it sits, the better. “Letting it sit overnight helps absorb the oil,” Nelson agrees. “Wipe away the residue with a soft cloth the next day.”
For grease stains that have been around for awhile, try dish soap. Again, don’t soak the shoe—the rule about excess liquid applies to soap and water, too. Let the soap sit on the stain for about 10 to 15 minutes before gently wiping it with a dampened paper towel or clean cloth.
This is also a good trick for salt stains. With salted sidewalks and melting snow, these pesky marks become more common as the season progresses. Mix cold water and a dash of dish soap before dampening a paper towel and patting the stain. Friendly reminder: Pat, don’t rub.
While not necessary, your future self might thank you for applying a suede protector before facing off with the next stain. Most shoe companies carry suede protectant or waterproofing sprays to help prevent damage to your shoes, so consider making the additional purchase during your next shoe shopping trip. “A suede-protectant spray helps guard against moisture and stains,” agrees Nelson.
How to care for suede shoes to keep them in good condition
Having a few useful tools in your arsenal can make all the difference. Keep a suede brush on hand and brush (dry) suede in the direction of the grain after each wear in order to remove any street grime, dust, or debris.
Also, “storage matters,” Nelson says. He recommends using cedar shoe trees to help maintain their shape and absorb any excess moisture from sweat or humidity, as well as dust bags “to prevent dust from drying out natural oils.”
Along those same lines, it’s also important to make sure your shoes are completely dry before storing them. “Keeping leather dry is as crucial as keeping it clean,” he says. “Never store damp leather—it can lead to mold and rot. Always air dry at room temperature, avoiding direct heat or sunlight to prevent cracking.”
If you want to go the extra mile, investing in a good suede cleaner, suede erasers, and a suede protector is also helpful—though you can certainly make do without them by using the alternatives mentioned above. Remember, with a little care, your favorite suede shoes can last for years to come.