When it comes to learning how to make eyes look bigger, few understand the craft better than professional makeup artists who’ve spent years perfecting the quintessential doe-eyed gaze. “Doe-eye makeup looks are a favorite of mine,” celebrity makeup artist Tasha Reiko Brown tells Vogue. “Since the early days of ingénues on screen, they’ve been a timeless way to draw attention to the eyes in a softer, more diffused way than a smoky eye.”
Vogue’s Favorite Doe-Eyed Essentials
It’s true: Whether you have small eyes, hooded eyes, round, or deep set, the simplest of eye makeup tricks can transform your look from siren or ingenue. “Making the eye appear larger is a delicate endeavor—it all comes down to balancing the natural shape,” celebrity makeup artist Kate Lee tells.
Of course, there are the usual suspects: sky-high lashes, strategic liner, and thoughtfully placed shadow. But there’s a real method behind where each touch of color goes. “As a sculpting rule, dark shadows recede and highlights bring features forward, so brightening the lid can instantly make the eyes look more awake and defined,” Reiko Brown explains. She recommends avoiding dark tones on the lid and lower lash line. “Instead of black for drama, reach for a warm, light brown with a hint of shimmer,” she says. “Soft, pale grays can also add depth to smaller eyes without closing them in.”
As for lashes, restraint is key, and the false-lash look isn’t your friend. “Lashes absolutely help open the eye, but too much mascara (or a heavy strip lash) can weigh everything down and undo the effect,” Lee adds. More on all this below, where both our pros share step by step tricks to fake your way to larger-looking eyes.
Get Strategic About Your Concealer Placement
A well-placed dab of concealer can work far more magic than you’d expect—especially when applied with intention to subtly open the eyes. Lee suggests tapping a light-toned concealer onto the inner and outer corners for an immediate brightening effect. She’s adamant about choosing a lightweight formula to prevent any creasing around the delicate eye area—a serum concealer is your friend. “Another tip to brighten the eye area, depending on the eye shape and the fullness of the brow, is to apply a little concealer in a light shade just under the arch of the brow,” she says, noting that this trick is particularly effective for those with a naturally arched brow shape.
Apply Nude and Shimmery Eye Shadows
Reiko Brown’s favorite makeup technique for bigger eyes involves picking the perfect eyeshadow shade. She often reaches for a nude, bright, shimmery eyeshadow to create a luminous, uniform backdrop behind freshly curled lashes. “After applying a nude brightening shadow across the lid, I’ll take a shimmer shadow in the same tone and place it on the eyelid just above the iris, as well as on the inner corners,” she explains. “A touch of light in the inner corners can spark an instant awakened effect. When paired with lifted, angled lashes, the whole eye appears wider, fresher, and more alert,” she adds. Lee echoes this approach, noting that a grey-toned matte shadow can subtly enhance the socket line when “gently blended inwards with a clean brush.”
Curl Your Lashes to the Gods
Then, of course, there’s the matter of getting your lashes to stand at full attention. “Hold the eyelash curler as close to the base of the lashes as comfortably possible and press, holding until they’re firmly locked into place. Apply two coats of an inky, ultra-black volumizing mascara from root to tip, concentrating most of the product at the base,” says Reiko Brown, stressing the importance of starting at the roots of your lashes and wiggling upward as you brush it on. “Keeping the bulk of the formula near the lash line ensures the tips stay light, which prevents the curl from collapsing.”
Lee agrees, adding that a waterproof mascara tends to dry quickly and offers the strongest hold. “A trick to really set the curl is to keep nudging the lashes upward until the mascara has fully dried,” she says.
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Pick the Perfect Eyeliner Shade
Both Lee and Reiko Brown caution against stark white liner on the lower waterline. “White eyeliner tends to feel harsh—more like a nod to the ’60s rather than a modern way to open the eyes,” says Reiko Brown. On the other hand, a nude eyeliner, she explains, subtly brightens and creates the illusion of wider eyes. Lee takes an even more tailored approach, like applying a highlighter only to selective areas: “When I use a nude kohl pencil, I apply it only beneath the iris rather than across the entire waterline. It makes the eye pop without looking dated.”
When it comes to liner on the lids, shade selection matters just as much. “I prefer soft browns with a touch of shimmer, or gentle grays instead of black—you still get the drama without visually closing the eye,” Brown notes. Technique is equally crucial. “Every eye is different, but the angle and thickness of the liner are key for making eyes appear larger. Start subtly and build from there,” Lee explains. Brown agrees, especially for winged looks: “I opt for a slim liquid liner on the outer third of the upper lash line, finishing with a small upward flick to lift and define.”
Groom Your Brows
When wondering how to make your eyes look bigger, Lee reminds us that a fuller brow can sometimes dominate precious eyelid space. Now, take a deep breath—no one is suggesting a return to over-tweezing. Instead, just make sure keep a good brow gel on hand as a crucial part of your makeup routine. “Brows and lashes play a huge role in opening the eyes,” Reiko Brown notes. “A tail that dips too low can visually pull the eye downward.” To counter this, she recommends choosing a strong-hold brow gel and brushing the hairs upward for lift. “Make sure the tail directs outward rather than drooping down,” she adds. A subtle reshaping like this can instantly refresh the entire eye area, creating a gentler, more lifted frame. And when paired with brightened lids or a softly defined lash line, the effect becomes even more transformative.
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Everything You Need to Know
How We Tested
When we test and review a product, we take a holistic approach to deliver well-rounded product recommendations. First, we lean on Vogue’s vast network of experts—including celebrity and pro makeup artists—to gain professional acumen on the industry’s standout products, ones these specialists would actually use on their clients. We pair their expertise with our editorial best practices to curate the thoughtful edits you read on our site.
As it relates to makeup products, we selected the best based on the following characteristics: shade, texture, finish, and undertone. To do this, we paired our own personal tests of each formula with expert guidance and reviewer insights to determine which we would recommend to you.
Meet the Experts
- Tasha Reiko Brown is a Chanel makeup artist and groomer whose clients include Gabrielle Union, Michael B. Jordan, and Alicia Keys.
- Kate Lee is an LA–based Chanel celebrity makeup artist. Her roster includes Kate Winslet, Keira Knightley, Charlize Theron, Kristen Stewart, and Jessica Chastain.
