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A lot of the time, vintage engagement rings can be overlooked or deemed intimidating. And while a burgeoning engagement is an exciting time in anyone’s life. the actual shopping for the ring can be quite a daunting task. There are the big-name jewelers, the trendy settings, the industry-adored up-and-coming jewelers, and everything in between. But if your eyes are set on a selection of vintage engagement rings, or even an heirloom piece, it’s important to keep a few thoughts in mind in addition to the usual ring-buying experience. Trust us, it’s not all tedious and anxiety-inducing work.
In actual fact, a vintage ring is a cost-effective way to get a spectacular stone, often—if from pre-1930—hand-cut. And if you know where to look, a trusted seller can have what you may have been looking for all along. Below are five tips for the shopping process, with some suggestions for fabulous vintage rings—and the retailers that sell them well.
Look for quality
Jill Heller, a New York-based jewelry curator and purveyor of contemporary and vintage jewelry, has some base guidelines for approaching the vintage engagement ring market. “Once you’ve begun shopping,” says Heller, “look for weighty pieces made of high-quality and durable materials–you want to choose a piece that can continue to be worn and enjoyed for years to come. I only recommend rings that are 18-karat gold or platinum.” This will help determine whether the vintage ring you’re looking at can withstand years of wear compared to costume jewelry. Costume jewelry can be considered vintage too, but they tend to be gold-plated silver or brass with crystal instead of precious gems. Sometimes, it can be a little tricky to spot the initial difference, but over time, the distinction becomes clear.
Know if you want vintage vs. antique vs. vintage-inspired
Picture a vintage engagement ring in your mind. Now, imagine an antique engagement ring. Was there anything particularly different about the two images? While we know terms like vintage and antique get thrown as if they’re synonymous, in fact, there are specific definitions attached to each. Vintage rings are usually 50 or more years older, while antique rings are 100 years or older.
When going engagement ring shopping, determine how far back you’re looking to travel. The 18th-century Georgian style offers high-karat gold or silver with foil and stunning stones that have a kaleidoscope-esque quality to the setting, like a halo engagement ring with a marquise cut. Victorian-era styles followed after Georgian until the early 1900s, usually including amethysts, garnets, pearls, and diamonds with elaborate gold settings. Edwardian styles hit their popularity peak from 1895 to 1915, drawing traditional inspiration from its previous era with intricate designs, and diamonds and pearls as the go-to stones.
You’ve probably heard of the Art Nouveau era, which had soft and flowery designs on yellow gold for its engagement rings. But for the next 20 years, until the mid-century, Art Deco takes center stage. With baguette-cut diamonds, extravagant emeralds and rubies, and angular shapes, Art Deco engagement rings are arguably the most well-known among vintage and antique designs. Heavily influenced by the world wars, the following decades brought on the Retro era, a futuristic design with bold looks created by yellow and rose gold and a variety of stones, like a solitaire engagement ring.
It’s also important to decide whether vintage or antique is for you, or if you’d prefer a vintage-style engagement ring that has been made brand-new. These eras have a lot to offer in terms of inspiration, and if you’re having trouble finding the perfect vintage ring, then creating one with modern resources is a viable option, especially if you’re concerned about accessibility.
Be particular with your stone of choice
Deciding the setting and stone are other factors to keep in mind. “I would steer away from stones that are vulnerable to damage, like opals and pearls,” says Heller, “and go for a harder stone instead. It’s also important to beware of gemstone quality and avoid heavily included stones, which are weaker and likely to crack or chip over time.”
Do your homework
Finding your partner’s ring size is a part of the process. If you know the basics of buying an engagement ring, then you know doing your research on the “four Cs” (color, cut, clarity, and carat) and GIA grading, especially for antique diamonds, is essential. For vintage rings, you should ideally receive a gemological report that gives an assessment of the jewelry. If your jeweler can’t provide this, you can also get this information verified by a gemologist. To further understand the history behind your piece, clarify if there have been any adaptations to the gems and check for any loose stones in the setting. Remember, homework includes what you inspect upfront and find behind the scenes.
Don’t shy away from having fun
A diamond engagement ring makes for a classic look, but if you’re interested in exploring an Edwardian-era look or other antique jewelry for your future fiancée, try not to get bogged down by the options. Experiment with the idea of matching vintage wedding bands while eyeing engagement rings, or picture in your mind what kind of side stones would best suit your partner. There’s room for creativity in this process! “Don’t get too hung up on what an engagement ring ‘should’ be. If you’re drawn to a diamond solitaire, that’s great, but if it’s not for you, there are plenty of unique options out there,” says Heller.
