John Galliano and Rihanna on the front row, cyclamens on the ceiling and on the models’ ears, swirls of chiffon and organza, a handbag debut and a standing ovation. So concluded Jonathan Anderson’s Dior debut cycle, with his first couture show at the Musée Rodin in Paris — the same space where he presented his second menswear show just a week ago.
In the seven months since he was fully appointed at the helm of the French house, Anderson has launched five of the 10 collections he has to deliver yearly: two men’s ready-to-wear, one women’s ready-to-wear, and two pre-fall (one men’s and one women’s). It’s a heavy lift, but the Northern Irish designer seems to be comfortable learning while doing.
“When you copy nature, you always learn something,” read the show notes for Christian Dior Couture Spring/Summer 2026, the starting point of which was a bouquet of cyclamens that John Galliano gifted Anderson during a visit to the studio a few months back. “Nature offers no fixed conclusions, only systems in motion — evolving, adapting, enduring. Haute couture belongs to the same logic.”
And while couture is likely the most daunting of his new responsibilities, Anderson has already proven his commitment to handmade through the 10 years he spent working with leather artisans at Loewe. If anything, it wouldn’t be out of place to credit him with the resurgence of the word craft in the fashion vernacular — it was his Loewe campaigns that really made the concept cool again.
“Jonathan Anderson takes a young, innovative look for the new generation at Dior. I love the freshness and the colors and the flower earrings that were reminiscent of Galliano s créations in 1997. He included self-fringed tweed tailoring like the 1998 Mata Hari piece from my auction,” said Mouna Ayoub, who is selling her legendary Christian Dior haute couture collection this Thursday, January 29 at 3pm at the Bristol Hotel in Paris. “The great tradition continues. I have already placed my orders!”
.jpg)
Here’s what other attendees had to say about Jonathan Anderson’s first-ever couture collection for the house of Dior:
Camille Cottin, Call My Agent actress
I loved the wedding dress — it moved me. I’m someone who doesn’t want to get married, and it could almost make me change my mind. In general, I loved the feathers, the scales, the draping, the very poetic floral shoes.
Lauren Sonit, a Dior client from Geneva and New York
I thought it was fantastic. I loved the tailoring, the different shapes, and the play on the structure of the garments. The sheer dress with the long sleeves and the velvet bow in the front is definitely an item I have my eye on. Hopefully they’ll be lined. I think I aged out of completely sheer fabrics this year.
Chioma Nnadi, head of editorial content, British Vogue
I thought it was quite moving to see Jonathan post about his meeting with John Galliano — the flowers and the shopping bag of treats from [grocery store chain] Tesco. And so I was eager to see how Jonathan might nod to John’s time there with his couture collection. He always looks at references through such an extraordinary lens, and the more languid draped silhouettes in particular that were exquisitely textured — knitwear over pants — really stood out to me. There’s real dazzling showmanship and craft on display. And such a modern use of color and texture that felt right for couture.
Isabel, a Dior client from California and New York
It was a delightfully fresh collection. I love his interpretation of the house codes and all the colors he used. I see a lot of elements from Mr. Dior in his design — especially the bows and silhouettes. For example, he honors the silhouette of a Bar jacket. And the textures were really feminine and fun. I can’t wait to see everything up close at the Villa Dior on Wednesday.
Alysha Shahrukh, a Dior couture client based in San Francisco
He stuck to the DNA of the house — it’s like opening an archive book and seeing all of that, but his own unique take on everything. He just stuck to the core, the DNA, the garden theme, like Monsieur Dior himself. I have my eye on a few dresses, but specifically the white one that had the flowers right here and at the back. That was absolutely stunning.
.jpg)
David Martin, editor-in-chief, Odda Magazine
For me, the first collection of Jonathan Anderson for Dior couture screams the modern era of fashion and haute couture. His understanding of the past, how to incorporate respect in his vision to those who shaped the way before, determines a level of talent and attention to detail we all should pay deep attention to. It is beyond stunning, and he deserves to be where he is.
Veronika Heilbrunner, content creator, editor and model
I’m totally stunned. The blue silk is the first thing that comes to my mind — definitely on my wishlist. The shapes, the lightness, the flowers — I loved that they were turned into earrings and the sculptural element of it. It felt so light and easy to wear, which is very contradictory to couture.
.jpg)
