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From the fit to the feel to the wash, there’s nothing quite like finding a pair of holy grail jeans. Just ask Jane Herman, who’s spent the last 20 years—as an editor, writer, and designer—figuring out all there is to know about denim, both new and vintage. So what makes a great jean? What’s the difference between selvedge and raw denim? What details set a pair of Big Es (a sartorial white whale!) apart from all other Levi’s made after 1966? You could spend hours combing through online threads to figure it all out, or you can lean on Jane’s jeanius. Each month, Herman will decode all things denim. Welcome to Jean Files.
I was starting to worry. Weeks of watching the collections—New York, London, Milan—and so few jeans on the runways. What would I be wearing next fall? Loewe pillow pants? (Chic, but not for me.) And then, Paris. Thank heaven for Paris.
We tend to think of jeans as being an American thing—and they are—but denim, the fabric, is believed to get its name from the city of Nimes, France, where in the 17th century, a durable cloth made of wool and silk called serge de Nîmes originated. Centuries later, indigo-dyed cotton workwear known as bleu de travail became the uniform for the French working class. The ’90s saw Paris-based designers Helmut Lang and A.P.C.’s Jean Touitou making jeans that achieved–and still maintain–cult status. Brigitte Bardot, Françoise Hardy, Charlotte Gainsbourg, Jeanne Damas–they’re jeans girls, all of them. What even is the forever-aspirational French Girl Style without a classic five-pocket jean?
What I’m trying to convey is that denim is perfectly on brand in Paris, even if the designers who showed jeans are not actually French. To me, the denim trends that emerged last week are about elaboration. How to take a trope–patchwork, embellishment—and develop it in greater detail, with even more daring and flair. I suspect we have Brit-turned-Frenchy Jane Birkin, whose passing last summer sent us pouring over images of her in those famous Frankenstein bells, to thank, not just for Chloé’s Look 5 (which are basically replicas of Birkin’s), but also for the creativity exhibited. If the assignment was to make jeans that feel as special as hers, Paris got it right.
At Undercover, Jun Takahashi opened with a cut n shut jumpsuit combining a silk tank with pieced jeans; it took me a second look to see it was all one thing. More “traditional” pairs with gold tinsel spilling from the seams and hems made me think of the scarecrow in The Wizard of Oz (no lack of brains with the construction, mind you). Look 34—a dress of dreamy white layers with a train shown over rip-kneed denim-paneled pants—was my kind of bride.
The patchwork Chloé jeans were an instant hit. Personally, I loved the wide-leg pair designer Chemena Kamali took her bow in just as much. Lutz Huelle—under-the-radar and underrated—also had fabulous hybrid jeans made from used Levi’s. Again, the designer’s own were enviable.
For anyone needing red carpet denim, Stella McCartney showed a slouchy fit chapped with silver paillettes. (Western bling; Beyoncé called it.) The jeans were all so fun to see—snaps up the side, like track pants; indigo mixed with corduroy and tweed. There was some trickery (Balenciaga) and anti-trend (a low-rise skinny jean at Miu Miu, mon dieu!), but generally the jeans in Paris were a fashionable delight. Ones I think we’ll wear and treasure. I can’t wait.
Chloé Jeans
Patchwork and Pieced Jeans
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Dressed-Up Styles
Skinny and Low-Rise Jeans
February
For the past two decades—if not my whole life—I’ve been talking about jeans. (I took a brief hiatus to start a family and make jumpsuits, but generally, it’s all denim all the time with me.) Through my latest project, a Substack called Jane on Jeans, I frequently invite readers to send in requests. The question I get asked the most: Where to shop for vintage?
As a native Los Angeleno, I grew up going to the Sunday $1 sale at Jet Rag and circling the racks at Aardvarks on Melrose. (Do I date myself? I do!) A lot has changed since then: The landscape of LA retail and the major players in it, sure, but also my ability to recognize real, authentic vintage versus a pair of used jeans. Big difference.
Levi’s considers vintage to be anything made before 1971. The consensus among those I’ve talked to is that vintage must be 30 years, or older. Personally, I struggle to call jeans from 1993 vintage because so many of the great hallmarks—selvedge denim, antique hardware, button post numbers (on Levi’s) and Blue Bell labels (on Wranglers)—were cut out of production at these companies in the ’80s. Truthfully though, the more I learn, the more I believe that vintage is mainly, and most importantly, about a story. Any jean in circulation long enough will eventually have a good one. (And a smaller impact on the environment, to boot!)
Though I’ve written extensively about where and how to buy vintage Levi’s online—what to ask an Etsy seller and how to spot a fake, stuff like that—it had been a minute since I surveyed the stores in my hometown. Let me tell you, I was impressed. Some of the originals are still nailing it (Denim Doctors, Mister Freedom), but a new generation of fit experts have opened doors in Studio City (Lenny) and the Arts District (Foxhole) as well. One of Hollywood’s most beloved repair shops, Denim Revival, has been, well, completely revived by a bright, young enthusiast. There’s an argument to be made for doing vintage jean shopping IRL—every pair is one-of-a-kind and fits so differently. At these nine stores, the odds of finding something special or tailor-made are in our favor.
Denim Doctors
For more than 30 years, Denim Doctors owner Zip Stevenson has been collecting, selling, and fixing vintage denim: “I would say we have easily over 1,000 pairs of blue jeans, and 500 pairs of black in stock.” Feeling overwhelmed already? Let Stevenson help. The last time I visited, he said he could find me a perfect fit in 10 minutes, or less. We set the timer. Four tries and six minutes and 33 seconds later, I was sold on a pair of 1988 Levi’s 501s with a “dad” leg and rich, mid-blue wash. If I didn’t know better, I’d say it was easy.
Denim Doctors, 1495 Beverly Blvd, Los Angeles, CA 90026; (424) 256-9506. Follow @denimdoctors for more.
Denim Revival
Stephan Brovko took over the retail space in front of this legendary denim repair shop about a year ago, transforming it into one of the most impressive, customer-friendly vintage jean emporiums in the city. Talk about a nice guy who knows his stuff. A pile of selvedge Levi’s—those older pairs with the “stripe” up the outer side seams—sits casually by the front door, signaling the treasures in store to those who know.
Few people I’ve met can tell me how to date and identify vintage Wranglers. When I ask Brovko, he reaches for a pair on the rack and points to the zipper: A Gripper Zipper pull, like the one he’s showing me, means they’re from the ’50s and ’60s (!!!). “Talon pulls are from the ’70s,” he explains. And the boot embossed ones are “newer, nothing special.” If the history of your vintage is important, this is the place to shop.
Denim Revival, 7934 W 3rd St, Los Angeles, CA 90048; (323) 852-0171. Follow @shop.denimrevival for more.
Foxhole
For 13 years, Marlow “Fox” Hole has been selling and customizing vintage in her shops around Los Angeles, from Silverlake to Highland Park. Today, she greets customers by-appointment at a studio in the Arts District, where she and her husband Jeff sell hand-picked vintage (he does the hunting), and offer old-school single-needle repairs (she does the sewing). “The more lived in the better,” Hole says about the jeans she gravitates towards. “I don’t do the clean, darned look. I like it when the story shows.”
Foxhole, 340 E 6th St suite 329, Los Angeles, CA 90021; (213) 290-7175. Follow @thefoxhole for more.
Lenny
It works like this: Book an appointment online for a consultation ($55 for virtual; $75 for in-person), find a pair of pre-owned jeans from Lenny’s stock that fit O.K., and then let owner Lindsey Davidson tailor them to look like heaven. “Think of it as a big jean bar,” she explains. “It’s make your own jeans.” Any pair—Levi’s, Lee, or Wrangler—plus alterations (and minus the consultation fee) costs $375. Adjustments to personal pairs are not on the menu. Neither is selvedge (why mess with it?). With half a dozen clamps and a bit of elbow grease, I watched Davidson pinch the side seams on a pair of straight-leg Lees, transforming them from pooch-y to ab-flattening in minutes. The wait for finished alterations: 4-6 weeks and worth it.
Lenny, 13037 Ventura Blvd Studio City, CA 91604; (310) 970-4753. Follow @withlovelenny for more. By appointment only.
Mr. Freedom
Stylists, designers, and denim enthusiasts love this store because it’s the epitome of what one might imagine a wild west Hollywood vintage store to be: Authentic. Nostalgic. Vaguely costume-y and transportive. (Mr. Freedom has offered studio services to the entertainment industry since opening in 2003.) Workwear hangs from the rafters. The denim selection is tight and, some might say, limited compared to the sheer volume of inventory the shop packs in. Not to be over-looked: The in-house label, which includes a “Californian” collection of vintage-inspired selvedge blue jeans for men. In my opinion, a Mr. Freedom T-shirt is the coolest, most insider-LA fashion souvenir you can carry home.
Mr. Freedom, 7161 Beverly Blvd, Los Angeles, CA 90036; (323) 653-2014. Follow @mrfreedomstore for more.
Reformation Vintage
The busiest store on this list (are we surprised?), Reformation Vintage has a good selection of quirky, young-leaning used jeanswear selected primarily for its style (as opposed to its vintage pedigree). The super soft patchwork Orange Tab 550 Students that I tried on were sewn in February 1993, according to the care tag, and priced at $138. Honestly, I believe they’re worth more.
Reformation Vintage, 8253 Melrose Ave, Los Angeles, CA 90046; (213) 459-6079.
RLT
With RLT, owner Rachel Tabb gives those who aren’t interested in sifting through dirty clothes a more accessible vintage experience. It’s clean. It’s curated. And the jeans—all Made in U.S.A. Levi’s, you can find it printed on the care tag—are the perfect archetypes for ’90s 501s. There’s a pretty rack of blue jeans by the cash wrap, a pile of whites by the door, and even more stocked in the back, which they’ll fetch for a try-on once you know your size. (The absence of any gatekeeping here is so nice and refreshing.) Buy a jean and one of Tabb’s proprietary tees, then cross the street to Erewhon for a snack.
RLT, 7607 Beverly Blvd, Los Angeles, CA 90036. Follow @shop_rlt for more.
The Dig
Dominated by band tees and quality deadstock sweatshirts, The Dig’s denim supply is organized with Wranglers facing-off Levi’s on opposite sides of the shop. Most of the denim is distressed and smaller sizes are stashed in the back. I found a pair of white Wranglers with a classic watch pocket and boot-embossed zipper pull (used in more recent years, now I know) that cost a reasonable $165.
The Dig, 1121 Abbot Kinney Blvd Ste 2, Venice, CA 90291; (310) 529-4802. Follow @thedigrigg for more.
What Goes Around Comes Around
Sigh. The selection of vintage jeans here is collector-level epic. Perhaps this is to be expected from What Goes Around Comes Around, which started in New York in 1993 as a premium vintage destination, but has since expanded to include a luxury resale service—and a Beverly Hills storefront that opened in 2016.** ** Here, the most enthusiastic and charming salesperson fulfilled my request for “early ’80s, Levi’s waist size 29, or the equivalent” by gathering 16 (!) pairs of exceptionally rare jeans for me to try. The hardest one to walk away from: A Levi’s Big E selvedge 501 (super rare!) with a twisted seam, uniform fade, and long inseam (long enough on me to get a good 5”cuff). I loved them. They cost $1,700 and will haunt me forever.
What Goes Around Comes Around, 9520 Brighton Way, Beverly Hills, CA 90210; (310) 858-0250.
Shop a selection of vintage-inspired jeans, below:
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