Applications for the 2020 LVMH Prize opened in December, and young talents with aspirations to be the next Marine Serre, Grace Wales Bonner, or Thebe Magugu—all previous winners—were invited to apply by February 2. The winner won’t be announced until June, but in the meantime, the LVMH Prize jury gathered to comb through the applications and select 20 semifinalists. Those experts include everyone from Carla Sozzani to Michel Gaubert, Karlie Kloss, Sinéad Burke, Alexandre de Betak, Pat McGrath, and Vogue’s own Sarah Mower, all led by LVMH Prize founder Delphine Arnault.
What makes a designer stand out in these complicated times? The list of semifinalists, revealed exclusively below, aren’t just making beautiful clothes; they’re tackling fashion’s carbon footprint, designing for their communities, and celebrating their diverse cultures. “All [of the semifinalists] share an innovative vision, resolutely focused on the future, in terms of their research into new materials, use of bio-textiles or recycled fibers, concern for new artisanal techniques, and desire for local, reasoned production,” Arnault tells Vogue. “These initiatives speak to a growing awareness across the fashion and luxury sector, and reflect the values of environmentally conscious fashion.”
She continued: “This year, it is worthy of note that more and more designers are working in collectives, with six duos and one trio represented among the semi-finalists. Last but not least, our selection stands out in terms of parity, with 14 women and 14 men, each illustrating in their own way the ongoing conversation between the male and female wardrobes, the breaking down of gender barriers, and the emergence of a more inclusive mode of dressing. This fusion of savoir faire and modernity, not to mention the originality of our semi-finalists’ collections, heralds a wonderful 2020 edition.”
Each designer will meet with the jury during Paris Fashion Week, and eight will be chosen for the final round. The grand prize will be given on June 5 at the Fondation Louis Vuitton, with the winner receiving €300,000 and a year of mentorship from a dedicated LVMH team. Until then, consider this a crash course in the designers you need to know right now.
Ahluwalia by Priya Ahluwalia
Alled-Martinez by Archie M. Alled-Martinez
Area by Beckett Fogg and Piotrek Panszczyk
Casablanca by Charaf Tajer
Chopova Lowena by Emma Chopova and Laura Lowena
Commission by Jin Kay, Dylan Cao and Huy Luong
Ester Manas by Ester Manas and Balthazar Delepierre
Helmstedt by Emilie Helmstedt
Kaushik Velendra
Nicholas Daley
Nous Etudions by Romina Cardillo
Peter Do
Piero D’Angelo
Rave Review by Josephine Bergqvist and Livia Schück
Samuel Guì Yang by Samuel Yang and Erik Litzén
Sindiso Khumalo
Supriya Lele
Tomo Koizumi
Vaqar by Shirin Vaqar and Shiva Vaqar
Yuhan Wang
