“I hope you will not denounce me for stalking,” pled Italian prime minister Matteo Renzi to the room after a fashionable lunch in Milan. That seemed highly unlikely. Certainly neither Donatella Versace (who had been seated on his right) nor Silvia Venturini Fendi (to his left) seemed anything but enchanted to share shrimp and risotto with their nation’s dynamic young premier at the MUDEC, the Museum of Cultures. In fact, pretty much every fashion power player in Milan made it to this breaking-of-breadsticks to mark the opening ofSpring 2017 Milan Fashion Week. Down the length of two tables—each longer than the grandest of this city’s runways—ran a roster of local fashion royalty, visiting editors and buyers, plus government ministers, to boot. Placed opposite Renzi was Vogue Editor in Chief Anna Wintour alongside her Italian counterpart, Franca Sozzani; Prada’s Patrizio Bertelli; and Kering’s François-Henri Pinault. The new mayor of Milan, Giuseppe Sala, was there. And Giorgio Armani, Pierpaolo Piccioli, Giambattista Valli, Diego Della Valle, Massimo Giorgetti, Brunello Cucinelli, and Damir Doma were just a few more leading lights of the Italian fashion industry in the room.
It was an awesome display of creative and financial power. And as Carlo Capasa, chairman of Italy’s Camera Nazionale della Moda Italiana, reminded the guests before introducing Mr. Renzi, that industry is Italy’s second largest. Furthermore, the Italian fashion business is also Europe’s largest. Even Capasa seemed almost surprised—happily so—at Renzi’s presence. It was only last season that Renzi became the first-ever Italian head of state to open Milan Fashion Week, and here he was again. Said Capasa: “Never before have we had a prime minister pay attention to the fashion industry.” Hence Renzi’s stalking plea—before a promise to return next season, too (should he remain in government). “I strongly believe in the fact that you are a fundamental part of the Italian economy and in general to the Italian quality of life,” he said.
The room was not entirely placid, however. As Renzi said, “I know you are all in a hurry because some of you are are already trying to get organized with your shows.” Agnona’s Simon Holloway said, “I really shouldn’t be here—but I had to be!” And Lorenzo Serafini added, “This is a beautiful thing, but I really want to get back to the office!” Rodolfo Paglialunga was perturbed; he was still waiting for part of his Jil Sander collection to arrive. “It leaves your heart racing,” he said, “but you have to be able to enjoy this, too.” And they did—before racing back to work (or off to Gucci) before dessert.