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When most people think of fine fragrance, their mind automatically goes to fields of French lavender and men with names like Jean and Pierre. But in recent years, the conversation has found a global perspective as perfume lovers have set their sights (and noses) to other equally as fragrant cultures. Particularly, Mexico.
This shift in focus is not arbitrary: Dior showcased a Frida Kahlo-inspired resort show in Mexico City earlier this year and there s been a influx of luxury tourism as the country known for gorgeous beaches also becomes a natural wine mecca and space for creative street style.
As a first-generation Mexican-American, this new chapter excites me. Growing up, I struggled to understand where I fit in amongst a sea of private school kids on the Upper East Side—I experienced first-hand the richness and sophistication when I visited my grandparents in Mexico, but upon my return I’d see the media portray our people purely as struggling immigrants. It confused me that a culture so decadent was perceived as far from by those around me. So, decades later, it feels cathartic to see the country I love so much begin to be esteemed en masse.
The founders behind House of Bō, Arquiste Parfumeur, Xinú, and EAUSO VERT feel similarly. Rodrigo Flores-Roux, a master perfumer at Givaudan, says they’re an exemplary quad that demonstrate the vastness of Mexican perfumery through scent, packaging, and storytelling—and they’re spearheading this fine fragrance evolution. Linda Levy, president of The Fragrance Foundation, agrees, adding "it s almost a surprise that this uprising is just surfacing now because the heritage in Mexico and the connection to the sense of smell is part of their culture.”
Fellow first-generation American Tanya Gonzalez, co-founder and CEO of EAUSO VERT, shares that brand s new collection Herencia ("heritage"), was a exercise in teaching herself about Mexico’s legacy through the lens of fine fragrance and re-connecting with her roots. While researching local ingredients, she discovered that vanilla, magnolia, tuberose, and lime are native to her homeland. She celebrates the rich tapestry with fragrances like “Fruto Oscuro,” taking inspiration from centuries-old dessert recipes through blending Mexican black cherry (capulin) with upcycled patchouli heart, clove, and black persimmon, or zapote negro. Its name, an attempt to inspire those in the luxury space to try and pronounce Spanish titles in the same way they do for French products.
Carlos Huber, the founder of Arquiste, is a classically trained architect with a master’s degree in art preservation from Columbia University. He consistently pays homage to Mexico, with scents “El” and “Ella” draw from his parents personas, recreating the essence of a ‘70s disco night under Acapulco’s silver moon at Armando’s Le Club. “Flor y Canto,” on another hand, finds its roots in the Aztec ritual of floral offerings to the gods. Huber’s mission is to showcase an elevated persona of Mexico, one that effortlessly blends with the world’s diverse tapestry.
This sophisticated side of Mexico is also what House of Bō founder, Bernardo Möller, conjures through his perfumes, too. Growing up between Guadalajara and the beach town of Sayulita, Möller s specific early memories have made their way into his perfumes. For example, eating pomegranate with lime and chili evolved into the scent “Rosario;” the Agua de Colonia we were both doused in as children matured into a much more sophisticated “Agua de Santos.” The deeply personal “Espiritu” pays tribute to Möller’s late father via notes of leather, sage, and maculis oakwood, an unexpected note Flores-Roux added to his concoction because it surrounded Möller’s father’s Guadalajara home.
Veronica Peña, founder of Xinú, wanted to not only delight the nose but also the tactile senses as well with her brand. The name does it literally, evoking the Otomanguean word for “nose” from the Otomi people of central Mexico, artfully weaves indigenous culture into the very fabric of its brand, becoming an emblem of respect for Mexico’s roots and timeless olfactory ingredients. For the exterior, Peña collaborated with esteemed interior designer and architect, Héctor Esrawe. The result: a minimalist vessel so exquisite in its simplicity it deserving of a space at the MoMa. (And its “Copála” eau de parfum would fill the room of its smokey essence, of course.) House of Bō embarked on a parallel journey, seeking to marry artistry and functionality. Each fragrance bottle and cap is hand made in collaboration with artisans hailing from Mexico City and the Yucatan Peninsula. Each fragrance feels important in your hand, which was Möller’s intention. “Luxury is not meant to be seen, it s meant to be felt,” he notes.
Givudan s Flores-Roux has lent his talent to all four brands. Because of this, he s able to underscore their captivating distinctions between them. “Their vocabulary, styles, and intent are very different,” he says. To me, they embody different facets of Mexican cultural richness and taste."
Now, the world can begin to understand that richness I’ve always known and experience facets of my culture with an effortless spritz. Levy notes that Mexican fine perfumery is just debuting, and that “the arena is open for many more to join.” And I, for one, am ready for every note.