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Andiamo, Milano! Finally, after a few seasons of discussion, Milan Fashion Week has gained an extra day for Spring/Summer 2025, kicking off Tuesday lunchtime with Fiorucci, followed by heavy hitters Fendi, Marni and Alberta Ferreti. Industry insiders hope it’ll make for a more relaxed season, with more space for presentations and new talent.
Featuring 57 shows and 69 presentations, the event features heavyweights Prada, Gucci, Bottega Veneta, Emporio Armani and Versace, albeit in the absence of key players like Giorgio Armani, which has decamped to New York for a season, and Tom Ford, which will hold a presentation instead of a show, following the departure of Peter Hawkings and in anticipation of new creative director Haider Ackermann’s AW25 debut. DSquared2 has also switched to the presentation format this season, after its high-octane show during the most recent men’s week.
“Being in Milan during fashion week always means having very little time to rest and process what you’ve seen, as it’s always the most packed calendar out of the ‘big four’,” says Vogue Italia contributor Giorgia Feroldi. “But with less big debuts ahead and a day added to the schedule in search of some relief, the mood feels slightly more relaxed compared to other seasons. I hope this can benefit younger designers,” she says.
After a string of debuts for AW24, Milan Fashion Week (MFW) SS25 is the season of sophomores. First, Moschino’s Adrian Appiolaza will present his second womenswear collection for the house, after a well-received menswear show in June. This collection is important, as it’s Appiolaza’s first full women’s show for Moschino. (For AW24, he was appointed just weeks before the show, following the passing of former creative director Davide Renne, so didn’t have full creative control of the collection.)
Next comes Matteo Tamburini’s second act at Tod’s, after a warm reception for his first collection. “I am curious to see what Tamburini’s Tod’s is going for in his second attempt to revisit the heritage of the brand after an interesting start last season,” says Feroldi.
Feroldi, along with Vogue Runway contributor Tiziana Cardini, is also anticipating Simone Bellotti’s third collection for Bally, following a strong showing last season. “His designs definitely won my heart and are what I am most looking forward to discovering at any Milan Fashion Week appointment,” Feroldi says. It’s Bellotti’s first show since Bally was acquired by US-based investment firm Regent in August. “Simone is consistent, but he also has a slightly dark undertone that makes what he does really interesting,” says Cardini.
Italian editors are looking forward to burgeoning talents Marco Rambaldi and Del Core, both showing on Wednesday, as well as Andreādamo, showing Sunday. Daniel Del Core, who cut his teeth dressing VIPs at Gucci, has built a strong celebrity network since striking out on his own in 2021, including Florence Welch and Lupita Nyong’o.
“Bottega Veneta is always one of my favourite runway shows in Milan,” says Brigitte Chartrand, VP of womenswear buying at Ssense. “Matthieu [Blazy] has defined a distinct direction for the brand, so I’m very excited to see where he’s going to take the SS25 season.” MM6 and Diesel are also among Ssense customer favourites, she adds. “I’m looking forward to seeing what’s on the way for both of those brands as well.”
More space for new blood
The Milan schedule is sometimes criticised for a lack of emerging talent and new ideas. Ssense’s Chartrand says, “without giving too much away”, that the newest brands on her radar are currently in London or Paris. But with the extra day, attendees can explore smaller events this season and hopefully scout out some new names.
Attendees should make space for presentations this season. Editors point to emerging labels Florania, Durazzi Milano, Casa Preti, Domenico Orefice and Cavia as some of the talents Vogue is watching closely. Also, Niccolò Pasqualetti — who usually shows in Paris and was among the finalists for the latest LVMH Prize — will present a retrospective exhibition of his works and a small preview of the SS25 for the first time in Milan; the designer received Italy’s CNMI fashion fund grant for 2023/2024 to support the growth of his label. Chinese designer Susan Fang will make her Milan debut this season, supported by Dolce Gabbana, following previous “supported by” recipients Feben, Karoline Vitto and Tomo Koizumi.
The digital runway shows “tend to get overlooked”, but are becoming more and more a place to spot new talent, Feroldi says. On Monday (23 September), she points to brands Via Piave 33, Defaïence by Nicola Bacchilega and Francesco Murano, who are each building global recognition via celebrity dressing. Via Piave 33 presented at Pitti last season, supported by Kering Innovation Lab.
Trends to watch, or no trends at all?
In terms of trends, buyers and editors are looking for textures this season, Chartrand says. “Our SS25 buy will take shape as we go, but we’ll always come prepared with insights from the last season — for example, cool micro-trends that we think more designers will pick up on next season,” she says. “What does that mean for spring? We’re looking for pieces that are playful but feminine; think contrasting materials, layering, sheerness, embroidery and embellishments. On the flip side, we’re also looking for that stronger, empowering tomboy look and we’re hoping to see a lot of neckties.”
“What I’m looking forward to every season, to be honest, is to see some unexpected sparkle in Milan,” Vogue Runway’s Cardini says. “As we know, Milan is often very reasonable, it’s about wearability, it’s down to earth,” for this reason, she’s watching The Attico and Marni for a bit of pzazz. “I love what Francesco [Risso] does at Marni, he brings a real jolt of artistic vision to Milan.”
In terms of trends, Milan may not be the launch pad, Cardini adds. Trends are not born in Milan, [they] are born in London, probably in Paris,” she says. “The big brands here go their own way. Milan is more about a consistency that comes from the past.”
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