Most of America is looking forward to the last long weekend of summer, but here at Vogue Runway, we’re in New York Fashion Week prep mode, which gets off to an earlier-than-usual start with shows from Proenza Schouler and Ralph Lauren (the latter in Bridgehampton!) before its official kick-off. That comes on the morning of Friday, September 6, with the Fashion for Our Future March in midtown Manhattan. The CFDA and Vogue have teamed up with the nonprofit, nonpartisan voting organization I am a voter.®to register participants at the march and encourage voter participation during fashion week and beyond. Then it’s a whirlwind six days of shows from out-of-towners like Alaïa’s Pieter Mulier and Off-White’s Ib Kamara and a slew of hometown favorites. Tommy Hilfiger is presenting on the MV John F. Kennedy, which in a former life was a Staten Island Ferry, and Tory Burch is across the East River at the Domino Sugar Refinery. Forty of the week’s top shows will be live-streamed in Rockefeller Center’s iconic rink, in a partnership with the CFDA. See you there!
Oh la la, Alaïa
The week’s hottest and hardest-to-get ticket is Alaïa. Not just because the Belgian designer Pieter Mulier typically shows in Paris (and, on one occasion, at his flat in Antwerp), but also because he’s on the haute couture calendar, or at least adjacent to it, which means smaller, more intimate presentations. Still, we’re certain he’ll be making room for some of the A-listers who’ve been wearing his Alaïa lately. Miley Cyrus, Zendaya, and Taylor Swift all number among his boldface American fans.—Nicole Phelps
Finally, a Stateside Show for Off-White
Virgil Abloh worked at hyper speed, but among the many things he accomplished in his too short life, he never brought his Off-White show to New York. That changes this season with Ib Kamara, Abloh’s former stylist and Off-White’s current creative director, on the calendar. “V always felt very connected to New York, his friends and family and the Off-White community here and we had started planning to show in the city just before he passed away. I really want to share this show with our joint community of friends and family here,” he told us. “New York has always been a melting pot of people with all different backgrounds so I’m excited to embrace this American mentality, and tell the story that combines my West African upbringing and lived experience of being an immigrant with a bit of American elements.”—NP
An Amsterdammer in New Amsterdam
Ronald van der Kemp, the Dutch designer who typically shows during Paris couture week, is also in town, celebrating his label’s 10 year anniversary with a show in the East Village. “My career started in NYC straight after art school in Amsterdam in the ’90s at the chicest Bill Blass and at Barneys, working with the fearless Pressman family,” van der Kemp explained via email. “These experiences really shaped me as a person and as a designer. I [also] had a dress in the “Sleeping Beauties” exhibition that’s part of the Met’s permanent collection, so this jubilee year felt like the perfect opportunity to bring my ‘new ethics in luxury fashion’ to New York.” As for what to expect from the sustainably minded creator, he said, “I did what I always do times-two; this wardrobe is an homage to NYC as I like to see it—the energy, the spirit, the eccentricity, and belief that everything is possible! I want to bring realness and old school couture, shake up some things here, and hopefully find some of the Nan Kempners of today.”—NP
When a Runway Just Isn’t Enough
In New York, September is always the season for designers to go all out, given the weather is so much better than February’s. This year is no different, with many designers breaking out of the trad show format. Tanner Richie and Fletcher Kassel, still riding high having dressed the cast of The Wiz at the 2024 Met Gala when they dressed the cast of The Wiz, are holding their spring 2025 Tanner Fletcher presentation at an art gallery, with street-cast models in a theatrical performance that will turn them into “live works of art.” Jackson Wiederhoeft, a CVFF finalist for the second time this year, is partnering with the restaurant HAGS to create a theatrical dinner that will “extend the magic of the fashion show.” There may be another label taking inspiration from Dries Van Noten’s spring 2005 show, in which a dinner and a fashion show converged to glamorous effect, but we’ve been asked not to disclose who quite yet. Just be ready for a season full of surprises.—Irene Kim
The Busiest NYFW Day—Before NYFW Even Starts
Fashion loves to be “in” on something before everyone else, so it’s not surprising that the week’s busiest day comes two days before the official start of New York Fashion Week. Let’s call September 4th the unofficial kickoff. Downtown, the events include Uniqlo’s sneak preview of Clare Waight Keller’s new Uniqlo: C collection, a party celebrating the 250th anniversary of Birkenstock, and a cocktail in honor of Luisaviaroma’s New York flagship store. That evening, the CFDA and Genesis House will host their AAPI Design and Innovation Grant at the Genesis House, where they will announce the participants of the 2024 award. And uptown, out-of-towners are taking over New York’s department stores with Chitose Abe celebrating the aforementioned fashionable new book, The Battle of Versailles, at Bergdorf’s, and Simon Porte Jacquemus toasting to the week at Nordstrom.—IK
All Eyes on Luiza Perote
Every season a modeling star is born, and this season, it seems that all eyes will be on Luiza Perote, the 19-year-old Brazilian model who debuted at Marc Jacobs’s 40th-anniversary show in February—talk about major! Since then, she’s walked the runways for Fendi, Versace, Bottega Veneta, Saint Laurent, Balenciaga, Chanel, and even took a quick jaunt around the Place Vendôme in a full Jacquemus look for Vogue World. Vogue’s Global Casting Director Ignacio Murillo says, “She has not only an amazing versatility to her look but an incredible personality. I’m looking forward to watching her meteoric rise continue this season.”—IK
Ten Years of Area
This season Piotrek Panszczyk is celebrating a decade of Area, the label that has made artfully bejeweled jeans and funky mini dresses with sculptural details ready for the stage (or the world, as all of it is also a stage). Anniversaries tend to put designers in a reflective mood, Panszczyk included. “Our evolution reflects a relentless pursuit of creativity and craftsmanship, driven by a desire to create fashion that inspires and empowers,” he said. “As we continue to push the boundaries of self-expression and innovation, our commitment remains to craft pieces that instill confidence and joy, resonating deeply with those who wear them.” While the details of the presentation are being kept under wraps, a heavy dose of glamour and a big deal of fun is to be expected.—Laia Garcia-Furtado
Welcome to New York, Patricio Campillo
Earlier this year, menswear designer Patricio Campillo became the first Mexican to become a semi-finalist for the LVMH Prize. Up until now, he’s shown his collections via lookbook during Mexico Fashion Week, but this season he’s upping the ante with a runway debut on the official New York Fashion Week calendar. And he’s hoping to continue showing here: “I plan on moving forward in New York since it’s where there’s a community around the identity of the brand,” he explained. We can certainly see his softly draped tailoring and earthy tones being a hit this fall.—Jose Criales-Unzueta
And Now… a Reintroduction
When we checked in with designer Rio Uribe at New York Fashion Week a year ago, he said that the brand would be no more—at least how we knew it. “The word gypsy is sensitive in certain cultures, and since the brand ethos is unifying and inclusive, we just can’t have that word,” he told us. Over the past year, Uribe posted calls-to-action on Instagram to crowd-source new name ideas, but, as it turns out, the best name to move forward with was none other than his own. Introducing: Rio Sport.—JC-U
Winning Streak
Abandoning the lookbook format she’s favored for years, 2023 CFDA/Vogue Fashion Fund winner Melitta Baumeister will make her runway debut for spring 2025. Don’t expect the traditional back-and-forth runway experience, though. True to form, Baumeister has given the ritual a new twist. “It will be an experiential, more performative show where we also work with movement in a special way,” she said. “I was thinking about acceleration and movement itself; I want to push things further, as I always try to do.” Hold on to to your hats…—Laird Borrelli-Persson
Popping in and Popping up
September is bringing a bunch of New York openings. While some brands are opening permanent outposts, others are stopping by to meet the fashion week crowds. Luisaviaroma, the Italian retailer, opened this summer, but is hosting celebratory drinks for fashion week. Swedish brand Axel Arigato has arrived in Soho, and Nili Lotan is expanding with a new men’s store in Tribeca. Uniqlo’s little sibling GU is opening a permanent flagship this month, after popping up during the summer. And on the subject of pop-ups, Cecilie Bahnsen is hosting its first in New York, Australian-born Nagnata is taking over the Lower East Side’s Sommwhere event space, and Leset is opening its first retail storefront in the West Village, a prelude to its first permanent storefront to come in 2025.—Madeleine Schulz
Barneys Is Back, But Not as We Knew It
The rumors are true: Barneys is back. Well, kind of. Hourglass cosmetics is actually hosting the pop-up, in collaboration with the sorely-missed retailer, which is where Hourglass got its start 20 years ago. The Prince Street pop-up will play host to over 40 New York brands, young and old, with events scheduled over five weeks. “If Barneys still existed today, all the designers would be a part of the store,” said Julie Gilhart, former Barneys senior vice president, fashion director, who, alongside Simon Doonan, curated the temporary concept store. In part, it’s a way for New York designers who aren’t on the calendar to show up at fashion week. “It’s a ‘love letter’ to New York designers to remember this city is a great place to start a fashion career,” Gilhart added. “Barneys was the store that launched so many emerging businesses and reminds us of how creative business partnership can lead to success.” If only it was back for good.—MS
Villa Zegna is Touching Down on the Upper East Side
After launching its Villa Zegna concept in Shanghai in May, the Italian fashion label is bringing its new event concept to New York, just in time for fashion week. Villa Zegna is inspired by Ermenegildo Zegna’s private home in Piedmont’s Oasi Zegna, and its second edition will fuse this with storytelling elements that narrate the founder’s 1938 journey to New York. The details for the New York edition are still relatively hush, but if the Shanghai event is anything to go by, clients can expect personal shopping opportunities and exclusive products throughout the pop-up’s week-long run.—MS
Paris on the Hudson
The corner of 57th Street and Fifth Avenue was one of Bill Cunningham’s favorite places to capture New Yorkers’ vibrant street style. Just down the street, Bergdorf Goodman will devote prime Fashion Week window real estate to the esteemed late photographer as two Cunningham-related projects launch. Sacai has reimagined his signature blue French worker’s jacket and used one of his quotes—“Fashion is the armor to survive the reality of everyday life”— on T-shirts and hoodies, which will be available at the store. September also sees the release of a new book, The Battle of Versailles: The Fashion Showdown of 1973 (Rizzoli), featuring photos of the event from Cunningham’s archive. Author Mark Bozek also included images by Jean-Luce Huré, “the French version of Bill,” as a way of recreating the American-versus-French organization of the half-century-old fashion extravaganza.—LBP
Toteme Takes Its Show on the Road
Toteme’s NYFW debut is also a homecoming. Although the label is headquartered in Stockholm, co-founders Elin Kling and Karl Lindman were living in the Big Apple when they launched the brand in 2014. While Toteme epitomizes Scandinavian minimalism, Kling has always been inspired by the trad look of the Upper East Side, where the brand will soon open a new boutique on Madison Avenue at 69th Street. “New York is our home-away-from-home and a constant source of inspiration,” said Kling. “It is the city where Toteme was founded a decade ago and for that reason it feels special to be staging our summer 2025 runway show at NYFW this September.”—LBP
They ❤ New York
Also representing the Nordics at NYFW are Vain and Vitunleija; the two brands came up together in Helsinki, and are showing their work at the Consulate General of Finland. Co-founded by Jimi Vain and Roope Reinola, Vain is the more fashion-forward of the two. A collection of looks made from upcycled McDonald’s uniforms that they showed in their local McDonald’s in 2022 broke the Internet. (A piece from that lineup has since been exhibited at the Museum at FIT.) Why come to New York? “It’s always been a big part of our inspiration,” Vain said. “The main theme in our brand is to showcase different aesthetics and different views on love.” Added Reinola, we provide an “alternative aesthetic because love doesn’t look the same for everyone.”—LBP
From Downtown to Up, These Are the Best Places to Eat This Fashion Week
Contra, the beloved Lower East Side restaurant that shuttered late last year after a decade in business, is back as Bar Contra. Already a favorite of Dimes Square’s glitterati, the space on Orchard street is sure to be the place to be spotted casually grabbing a bite and a drink from their extensive cocktail menu before heading to the nearby Collina Strada show. Carbs are always a good refueling option, and Massara, Flatiron’s newest Italian restaurant from the people that brought you Rezdôra, is already getting rave reviews. Stop by and reminisce about your Italian summer getaway.
The West Coast’s favorite dumpling spot Din Tai Fung finally opened in Times Square. The area remains one of the city’s least fashionable, but there’s usually at least one show at Rockefeller Center or the Times Square Edition Hotel, so you may as well make the trip worth it. Getting a reservation is next-to-impossible; if you’re lucky enough to score a spot, we recommend the sesame noodles and the pork soup dumplings. And finally, the spot to go after your uptown shows is Le Veau d’Or. The classic bistro that dates to 1937 is back after a luxe remodeling from the guys behind Le Rock and Frenchette, and serves what many are saying is the city’s best steak frites. As an added bonus, the intimate setting means that gossiping about all the NYFW happenings is best done here.—Irene Kim
Comic Relief
According to online reports, the reach of anime is huge, and ever growing. It’s been estimated that “750–800 million people watch anime outside of Japan and China.” Designers certainly aren’t immune to the appeal of the genre. Bringing some “comic relief” to NYFW is Steve Aoki, a DJ and the creative director of the Dim Mak label, who has teamed up with Toei Animation to create a collection that marks the 25th anniversary of One Piece, a pirate-themed epic, considered one of the “big three” series in the shonen, of young-boy, style of anime style. “I’d like to highlight how this collection brings a unique, high-fashion twist to streetwear,” Aoki wrote to Vogue. “We’ve incorporated luxe materials and intricate details that elevate each piece, making it not just about comfort and style, but also about craftsmanship and sophistication. I believe in merging the worlds of anime and high fashion, creating a new space where these two cultures meet in a way that hasn’t been done before.” Expect a multimedia experience at the show.—LBP
Front Row Fantasy Cast
Last season, Ryan Murphy’s Capote vs. The Swans had us on Fashion Week Swan-watch. This time around, we’ve decided to fan-cast the runways. Nicole Phelps would like to see Miranda July, the author of this summer’s literary sensation All Fours, front row, while Laird Borrelli-Persson is hoping for a Mahmood sighting. Irene Kim is looking out for Romy Mars—her debut EP Stuck Up has been a hit here at the Vogue HQ. I’m on Brat-watch this season, hoping to see Charli XCX at the shows before she kicks off her US tour, and Laia Garcia-Furtado is manifesting a Winona Ryder appearance as she promotes Beetlejuice Beetlejuice. And yes, she’s tried saying her name three times. —JC-U
The Season of the Demure Brat
Charli XCX’s hit album Brat helped define the summer, that is until the TikTok sensation Jools Lebron started posting about her “very demure, very mindful” makeup, among other things. Lebron’s clips gave us a delicious lesson in the nuances of queer vernacular, though the internet erased much of the context, as things tend to go online. Now everything is demure or not, mindful or not. Ditto with Brat—to call ourselves brats or bratty is a superficial way of addressing Charli’s layered album, but alas, here we are. Will this NYFW be the season of the brat, of demurity, or the demure brat? Stay tuned to find out.—JC-U