Patricia Voto, the founder of One/Of, is taking an old school approach to fashion that is right in step with the times. Using deadstock fabric (much of it sourced in Europe for pieces that are proudly made in NYC), the designer creates—or proposes—seasonal collections that are then made to the customer’s specifications. “It’s always suggestive,” Voto explains in her humming Upper East Side Studio. “We put these capsules together just to say what we think the fabrics will look good as in terms of silhouette, but it’s completely customized.”
The made-to-order model, which was common through the early 1960s, is getting a rethink as designers try to work more responsibly. Voto came to it through the fabrics. Working side-by-side with the likes of Joseph Altuzarra, Laura and Kristopher Brock, and others, she developed a passion for materials. Noticing the waste and leftovers of the traditional production system, she designed some looks for herself out of remainders; the response was such that she launched her own label.
One/Of isn’t minimalistic, but the designs are straightforward. “Sharp and clean” exterior lines, notes Voto, put the emphasis where she wants it, on the fabric. The designer is drawn to prints and patterns with a hyper-feminine aesthetic that’s rooted in polished 1950s-style glamour. The brand’s retro vibe has less to do with the age of the materials than the motifs Voto favors. Jacquards and warp-print florals have become a signature, used not only on dresses, but also for a pair of office-ready joggers. Statement coats, cut to swing, in lamé brocades or faux leopard, channel the chic of Grace Kelly or Sophia Loren, but in classic shapes that can go from subway to school pick-up. “Femininity is really important for us, but it’s also about countering that with practicality and ease,” says the designer.
The comfort level Voto builds into her pieces is anything but retro; neither is her focus on keep-forever pieces that won’t be cast aside after six months. The designer’s keeper mentality is closely tied to her inclusive view of fashion. That On/Off makes room for women of all shapes and ages is evidenced by the fall 2022 lookbook.
“Fashion can often be youth obsessed, especially with trends catering to Gen-Z,” noted Voto, who, working with Bailey Moon, a dancer-turned-stylist, cast four principal ballerinas: Sarah Lane and three women who have hung up their slippers, Maria Kowroski of the New York City Ballet, and American Ballet Theater’s Cynthia Harvey and Allegra Kent (who is 84 years young). One/Of’s stellar casting is a reminder that it’s time for fashion to step up to the barre and recalibrate its relationship with time in terms of ageism as well as showing and production. Beauty has no expiration date.
