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The best part of Paris Fashion Week’s runways, for those hoping to take home a piece of the action, is that there is a way to shop them before the clothing actually lands on shelves in a few months: Grab the beauty products while they’re hot. Still, the pros behind the spring 2022 shows were unusually cagey about their beauty looks this season. Some designers had beauty teams signing nondisclosure agreements to prevent leaked secrets, while others closed off backstage altogether.
Thankfully, we were able to wrangle the industry brains behind the beauty, like makeup artist Peter Philips (Dior’s liner linguist) and hairstylist Anthony Turner (the coolio behind Rokh’s rocker ponytails), for their exclusive take on the products that walked the runway. Whether it’s Diane Kendal’s luminous cheekbones at Balmain, Holli Smith’s sopping wet bangs at Balenciaga, or Fara Homidi’s “psychedelic skin” at Coperni, there’s a bit of Parisian magic in every detail.
Here, a shoppable guide to the tools, tricks, and talent that closed out one of the most interesting fashion months in history.
Balmain
The Look: Diane Kendal’s “beautiful luminous skin with highlights on cheekbones.” For eyes, it was kept simple—and fresh—with “mascara at roots of lashes” meant to accentuate each model’s individual features.
Rokh
The Look: In Paris, hairspray is back. For Rokh’s runway inside the Petit Palais, hairstylist Anthony Turner gave rock and roll ponytails an easygoing spin. “The quicker I do it, the better it always is,” Turner explained backstage. “I don t want it to be too pretty—it’s very careless.” The recipe? A teasing comb and Elnett to make it look like you’ve “kind of been out all night.”
Christian Dior
The Look: “Maria Grazia showed me a picture of a ’60s woman in profile with big lashes and big eyeliner, and she said, ‘I like the space in between both liners,’” Peter Philips shares of the makeup he created and styled for the French fashion house’s show. “Pure skin” and black and white pigment on the eye was all that it took. “For me, an eyeliner is always very Dior—it’s very Paris,” says Philips.
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Coperni
The Look: “Gigi Hadid said ‘beam me up, Fara,’ so I did,” says makeup artist Fara Homidi. To translate the show’s futuristic utopian theme, Homidi delivered “psychedelic skin with opalescent accents on eyes and lips and all over the body.”
Balenciaga
The Look: Sopping wet styles. For Balenciaga, hair artist Holli Smith stayed “true to each person s identity” while channeling either “harder, wet statements” like Elliot Page’s slick, piece-y bangs, or letting hair remain a bit softer, with seemingly untouched natural texture.
Stella McCartney
The Look: “The skin is brilliantly glowing and luminous” for Pat McGrath’s Stella McCartney runway, which mixed sporty pieces with “vibrancy and flow.” For a “season of transition,” there was an “innocent approach” to the entire runway. For beauty, in particular, McGrath shares that “the makeup is subtle yet powerful.”
Giambattista Valli
The Look: “They re wearing makeup, but they don t really care about it,” says Isamaya Ffrench of the “freshness and vitality” she brought to Giambattista Valli’s Paris runway. The idea was easy-going elegance, just relaxing in an Italian garden. With a swipe of lipstick, Ffrench created “the girl that would hang out there having a great time.”
Rick Owens
The Look: Raw beauty based on balance. “The makeup was inspired by Michele Lamy, Rick’s wife who opened the show,” says Daniel Sallstrom of paying homage to Lamy’s dramatically sooty gaze. It was accomplished “by creating a dark mood with yet a beautiful shape, the duality between light and dark, heavy and soft, which very much sums up the collection for me.”
Loewe
The Look: Barely there. Makeup artist Pat McGrath celebrated “an illusion of color” with fresh, minimal makeup that focused on a supernatural flush of color on cheeks. For lips? Clear balm is all you need.
