Clothes move so quickly on the runway, it can be easy to miss the excellence of construction, finishing and fit that go into making samples for fashion’s leading houses. As a pattern-maker who closely studies shifts in proportion and modulation, Autumn/Winter 2019 was deeply enjoyable to witness. The collections were marked by adventurous silhouettes, sly details and exceptionally good fit. These six areas stood out.
Challenging cuts necessitate a close relationship between design and pattern development, requiring design teams with rigorous technical knowledge or a deep trust of pattern-makers and other atelier professionals to figure out how to make cut concepts happen and fit.
The reign of conspicuous and experimental shoulder shapes continues for AW19. Silhouettes are varied, but roundedness is speaking the loudest this season.
Designers are making cold weather-friendly standing collars en masse. However, there is a surprising amount of design variation from different fashion houses with an idea as simple as fabric cut onto the neck.
As consumer demand for serviceable pockets ascends to a roar, designers are responding with all manner of pocket construction and treatments for both function and design detail.
The manipulation of stripes, checks or visible grain is a tried-and-true method for elevating an otherwise simple cut or highlighting a complex one.
A pressed and turned edge with a single-needle topstitch or clean finish are classics for a reason. However, the pursuit of differentiation has designers perpetually exploring new ways to join cloth, contend with seam allowance and clean up hems.
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Decoding Dries Van Noten Autumn/Winter 2019
