Peter Do took the reins at Helmut Lang in the summer of 2023, presenting his debut collection for the cult label last September.
There is likely no New York label more beloved and referenced—particularly today—than Helmut Lang, though Lang is actually Austrian and only moved his shows here mid-career. His Chinatown bag prints and jackets have been revisited by many, most famously Phoebe Philo at Céline, and his signature sinuous, sometimes tangled jersey tank tops have been reinterpreted by the likes of Telfar or Dion Lee.
Do himself often referenced Lang at his eponymous label, often citing him as one of his inspirations. Now a couple of collections in at Helmut Lang, Do has dusted off the house’s archives to recontextualize some of its greatest hits in his collections.
Scroll through as we list Easter eggs on Do’s Helmut Lang runways.
Spring 2024 ready-to-wear
That one slinky, tangled pink dress.
And the signature car seat safety belt with a touch of pink.
There was also the obsession with a good cummerband.
And a headband on a good head of hair.
Fall 2024 ready-to-wear
The famous Chinatown bag print made a comeback.
As did the sheer jeans.
And don’t forget the famous bubble wrap jacket, here remade by Do in silk.
Some orange utility-wear.
And fringy overlays on the famous Helmut jeans.
An orange knit.
And some velcro, for good measure.
