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“Ibiza in the ’70s” is what artistic director Julien Dossena told Vogue was the “very Paco Rabanne” inspiration behind the sparkling draped hoods, glittering paillettes, and slinky crystal mesh that walked the Rabanne runway (and stepped into a one-name future) in Paris yesterday inside the Palais de Tokyo. “We came up with just doing a really gorgeous sun-kissed look,” makeup artist Diane Kendal said of her first time working with Dossena and Rabanne on something that flattered everyone without overpowering the gleaming fashion.
Ahead of the show, models were dusted with the house’s sparkling new makeup collection with a featherlight freshness that read more beachy than clubby. It’s supposed to feel real, after all, and people want things that are easy right now, according to Kendal. “They want to be able to do something very quickly,” she said. “Just to make themselves feel kind of healthy and go.” She dabbed liquidy Glitter Shot in the corners of eyes, glossed lids with Eyes Duo Palettes, and flushed complexions with a classic backstage trick: “We’re using lipsticks for the cheeks and according to the different skin tones,” she noted, adding that a can of Shimmer Bomb in Copper Doré is what delivered the minimal shimmer on shoulders and collarbones to “give you that reflection.”
Hairstylist Duffy’s team, in the meantime, kept things real as usual. “No extensions and plump—there’s nothing extra here,” the hairstylist said of adding an “ethereal dust” to models’ natural lengths with soft waves or breezy wisps pulled across the forehead as if swept into place by the actual wind. It’s “the idea that this girl is healthy,” he said. “She’s been in the sun all summer, she’s living her life within the vicinity of the ocean.”
A spritz of Bb Tonic Lotion Primer here, a mist of Redken Forceful 23 hairspray there, nothing visibly wet or sticky. “For me, less is always more,” Duffy said. “The simpler the better; the more organic, the more natural, the best.”
The real balance in beauty right now is finding the luminosity of every individual, Kendal said. We’re all gorgeous already, this is just an enhancement of what already exists. “I feel aesthetically, it’s always like a look that everybody can look good in,” she said. “The natural glow is always going to be relevant,” she continued of the smartly edited shine. “I don’t think it’ll ever go.”
