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There is something inherently magical about gilded, sculptural gold jewelry. When a necklace, earring, bracelet, or ring takes the form of an art piece or objet, it’s just too hard to resist, which is why, as a jewelry editor, I am always on the hunt for these bold accessories. My most beloved pieces of sculptural gold jewelry are undoubtedly those from the Phoebe Philo–era of Celine, like her kinetic pendulum-esque pieces and abstract face necklace with enamel eyes. I’ve also long adored classic Elsa Peretti’s bold and organic cuffs, as well as Ana Khouri’s graphic climbing earrings, and Lorraine West’s spherical rings and hoops. And then there are of course the visual artists who dabbled in this kind of jewelry as well, including Calder, Man Ray, and Hervé van der Straeten. To craft this kind of adornment is so often just as much about the artist’s investigation of the human body as it is about the material and mold of the piece of jewelry itself.
Sculptural gold jewelry is both classic and substantial. It works with any ensemble, whether that means you’re getting dressed up this holiday season for a Zoom call, virtual benefit, or socially distanced coffee. At a time when we aren’t looking to drape ourselves in overtly fabulous, glamorous attire, this artful, striking jewelry can provide a certain sense of fashion with a capital F that we’ve been longing for.
If you are indeed in the mood to inject some sharpness and sparkle into your wardrobe, below is our guide to the most alluring sculptural jewelry to adorn yourself with now—or admire as an art piece on a well-appointed shelf.
