For Silvia Dusci, founder of accessories label Le Sundial, jewelry should always evoke an emotional response. “Jewelry is a treat,” she tells Vogue. “You need to feel connected to the pieces.” As for her own designs? They all possess that magical spark.
An avid collector of vintage jewelry and found curios, Milan-based Dusci says the past has always been a defining source of inspiration. Her first necklace—the Nautilus collar, a black onyx choker with a sterling silver seashell-shaped clasp—can be traced back to a piece from her grandmother’s jewelry box. A trip to Venice with friends set on her on a path to create the Opera necklace, a long and dramatic beaded style that falls to a tassel. A chance encounter with the owners of a historic crafts store in Milan, took her love of tassels to new heights: “I saw an entire wall filled with colorful tassels, each crafted with different techniques and all handmade.” That’s how the idea of the Trinity, a satin cord pendant with hand-cut onyx beads and a swishy tassel, came to her. “I designed these two shapes that would keep the proportions balanced and not draw attention away from the tassel.”
What began as an Instagram account showcasing her inspirations and early designs quickly blossomed into a growing business spanning pop-ups, trunk shows, and a cohort of stylish followers that stretched from New York to Paris, and back to Milan. Within a year and a half, Dusci quit her full-time job in event planning at a local communications agency; now, her nine-to-five looks a little different, with each day punctuated by trips to the goldsmith and the stone dealers’ workshops. “The stone dealers are a family business—two sisters with daughters who’ve taught me a lot about various stones [and how to go about choosing them].” It’s easy to lose track of time here, she says. “I get so many ideas when I’m immersed in the space.” Her shift into jewelry might be a departure from her former routine, but it still draws on her creative and visual expertise to tell Le Sundial’s story.
Dusci currently works from home, but rarely sits still. “Sometimes I take the subway, but mostly I walk; in my dream life, I wear heels every day but the reality is that I’m usually in ballet flats.” Her own pared-back style is a canvas for the artful and intricate: a button-up shirt the perfect foil for a beaded choker, a black crewneck sweater the ideal base for an alluring pendant. She describes her approach to getting dressed as “feminine yet minimal, with a touch of something ‘wow’.” A decade in Milan (she grew up in a small town close to Lake Como before moving here for school), and an enduring love of Miuccia Prada dovetail well with the fact that she feels most herself in an elegant skirt.
With a dedicated studio in the works for the new year, and a Net-a-Porter debut that marks a fresh chapter for her brand, Dusci shares with Vogue what a week at work looks like for her; flitting between workshops in her effortlessly graceful manner, always with a great accessory in tow.
The Work Uniform
Dusci does most of her own sketching, with the occasional help of her mother, Daniella, a painter. Once complete, she’ll take her drawings to the goldsmith, who’ll help finesse the technical details before bringing her creations to life. A simple black cashmere crewneck from People’s Republic of Cashmere and a pencil skirt from Azi Land are perfect for a morning working from home, reviewing samples and workshopping new ideas. On her left hand is a new Le Sundial ring, from her upcoming customizable fine jewelry collection. “The design is inspired by Art Deco vintage finds,” she says, and will feature matching earrings. Custom grey pearls give this daytime look intrigue; a handmade felt cap from Maison Krasnova, a playful wink for when she steps outside.
Essentials With a Twist
For an early morning visit to the stone dealers’ workshop, Dusci keeps it simple with a few reliable favorites: A skirt from Esant (the designer is a dear friend, she says), and a shirt from Rubirosas, a recent Paris acquisition from her last trip for Mariana Vergara’s Le Popup. “I love the shape of the shirt; the cuffs are long, which allows you to play with styling them.” Inside her trusty The Row bag, a gift to herself for her 30th, were cards from the Rodin museum, which she brought along for inspiration. Prada’s antiqued heels, from the fall collection, and a simple black leather belt, also from The Row, complete the look.
Make it a Set
Dusci often finds a moment of quiet reflection at Marchesi on Via Santa Maria alla Porta, where she likes to pop in in the afternoon for a cappuccino and a sweet treat—no bulky bags or laptops at the table, please. Only a sleek clutch to house the essentials, she carries the lipstick-red Lydia here; dark olive and black versions of which are exclusive to Net-a-Porter. Elegant suiting works great for coffee meetings in the day, she says, but it’s a look that wouldn’t feel out of place at aperitivo either: “I love a coordinating blazer with a matching pant for a monochrome moment,” she says of her Blazé Milano set. She wore it here with a tucked button-up and the smoky quartz Tina necklace, but on another day, she’d also style it with a T-shirt or cashmere sweater underneath. For extra chilly winter evenings, she might throw a cape on top.
Outerwear Heroes
The “coat as outfit” strategy is as easy way to make a singular statement in the winter. Here, it’s one from Bite Studios: “It’s very sculptural and warm, crafted from a heavy wool.” She’s wearing a vintage Prada skirt underneath, with the same pumps and The Row belt seen above. “I am quite intense when making a new purchase,” she explains. “I always want to be sure that every piece I buy is something I can wear in different ways.” Her Sculptural necklace, made from waxed-cotton and strung with layered strands of freshwater pearls, faceted onyx, black coral, and 18kt gold beads, brings out her more eclectic side when accessorizing.
Favorites New and Old
Dusci’s own closet is a thoughtful and deeply personal collection of vintage and contemporary finds, an old-meets-new approach best illustrated with this set: “I found this old Dolce Gabbana jacket from one of my favorite vintage shops in Milan, Shop the Story,” she says. Rarely in jeans, even on a day off, she paired the ladylike jacket with relaxed black trousers from Toteme and her Aeyde heels—two of her go-to picks for comfort and polish. Her velvet tassel bag, a Net-a-Porter exclusive, makes for the perfect conversation starter at aperitivo: “I like to have fun and play with clutches and small bags, whereas for daytime, I prefer something more muted.”
Final Flourishes
The serendipitous outcome of a trip to Venice, Dusci’s Opera necklace is one of her most sought-after creations for a reason: Striking yet easy to style, she’s worn it with a T-shirt or a cashmere knit for day (paired here with a black People’s Republic of Cashmere crewneck), and an open-back dress for the evening. Matching earrings in onyx, carnelian, or ivory complete the set. “I always choose my outfit first,” Dusci says. Accessories serve as the finishing touch; they are the mirror to her moods.
